Jonathan_JK

Also I don't recommend Disco sway bar until you get to the rocks. At high speeds 45+MPH and running it disco can cause lots of body roll while pre-running.

I say Springs and Shocks airing down will help but in the end if you like fast dirt roads like one ones pictured you going to need upgrades remember Jeeps are rolling bricks.

BLK08JK

I don't mind upgrades, just don't want to pay three times for different versions of the same thing trying to figure out what'll work. I know it will be a combination of things... bumpstops alone wouldn't make me happy, but I can see what they help with.

Stupid question but when looking for dual rate coils, is that based mainly on weight of vehicle?

TheDirtman

I agree on the sway bar not being discoed until you are running in the rocks and need the full articulation. The stiffer coils you installed are not going to help in the ride quality. Hydraulic bump stops would help if you want to spend that coin. A good res shock will perform better then the rubi shocks. You may want to look into some of the adjustable shocks out there but be ready to pay. I would drop the air in the tires down to 10 psi. Unless you are really pushing on obstacles I would not worry about losing a bead too much. Carry a ratchet strap with you just in case.

I rode in a 4 door this weekend at moab with RK coils and the teraflex speed bumps and the ride sucked. Very jarring and he had to run pretty slow with that set up. You may want to run a bit more lift say 2" to allow for more up travel and choose one of the double rate coils to give you a softer on road ride while having that stiffer secondary section that will help keep you from bottoming out.

BLK08JK

Thank you, always appreciate your advice around the forum.

Chuck-The-Ripper

At 10 lbs my e rated tires provide a 70s Cadillac-like ride. I'll also admit that I'm usually too lazy to air up after wheeling and drive home (65 on the freeway) on them. It's about 10 miles give or take. I've also yet to pop a bead but I've just been lucky. If you're going to air way down I'll also recommend you throw a couple spare valve stems in your jeep. It's something small and cheap that could be a deal breaker, especially if you're in the desert as I wouldn't imagine there's much out there to limp home on. Last weekend my buddy blew a bead and he lost his valve stem. We got it seated, I had to hold the valve open on the inflator to get him aired up and then as I pulled it off I shoved a stick down inside to hold it in. It was a pain in the ass, lol.

kjeeper10

A dual rate coil only rides on a single rate. The upper rate is collapsed at ride height.
Your description is of a multi rate like RK's where theres a soft ride rate, a firmer rate (to keep from bottoming out) and a dead zone to add free length (to keep the coil seated flexed)

What coils did this dude have ? The older progressive/linear coils rode like crap compared to the newer triple rates.

TheDirtman

Yes they were the older coils. A true dual rate coil would have two different sections that are rated for different loads and both should be available in normal use. It just has to do with the number of windings and the thickness of the coil steel. A fully compressed section at ride height that allows for extra droop is a tender coil, not really a dual rate. What RK calls a triple rate is actually a dual rate (usable) with a tender on top.

BLK08JK

So far I've found AEV and Synergy as having triple rate... Any others out there you guys are aware of?

Albino Lizard

Shocks, shocks, shocks!!! I'm running king coilovers. They eat washboard for breakfast. I know, the springs arent near the stockers or lift springs, but it all comes down to dampening on washboard. Also, make sure your suspension components are all torqued. My buddy had some problems on dirt washboard and half his rear suspension was loose.

Rock Krawler Suspension

When were the speed bumps engaging? Did they have it setup for a low COG application?

To the Op

To go fast off-road you will definitely want to have a descent amount of up travel and supple suspension. Well tuned springs and shocks will be an important key and they need to work together. Lastly timing in the bump stops for the very last ditch effort to prevent from hard bottoming will also be important.

If you ever watch a race truck off-road, in small chop like that you would never even see the body move! It would float right across. This is because the bypass shocks are tuned to almost allow free flow in the middle of suspension travel (very little dampening - just enough to control the body), almost using all coil spring. Then as the vehicles get pushed, the springs transition into different rates and greater valving. That is exactly how our Triple Rate Springs work and are tuned. If you paired them with some good shocks, air down, you will be on the start to something that will work for what you are looking for...

Good luck with your build.

RK