THINGS TO KNOW WHEN GETTING 35s
10-14-2014, 10:29 AM
#21
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I have had my jeep for about 4 months now, its an 08 2door, I went to 33's with in the first week and with in a month or so I was wishing I had gone to 35's. Luckily for me I found some one that was the opposite of me and wanted 33's so I traded him plus a little cash. I desperately needed to regear with the 35's, which I was planning on anyway luckily. I went with 5.13's (another place I got lucky but that's another story) and I think they are just about perfect, I drive on the highway about 35 miles one way to work everyday and get better mileage than I did with the 33's and factory 3.73 gears. What im getting at is I highly recommend 35's and 5.13's over 33's and stock gearing especially if you have 3.21's.
10-14-2014, 11:12 AM
#22
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Gearing costs vary by area. A few high volume shops charge $1000 (California and Texas), average is somewhere around $1600, and you will see some reports up around $3000 (East coast and upper northwest, from previous posts). This is using the same gears and the same installation process, it is just what the shops in those specific areas can get away with.
Gearing is a preference. Lots of people drive 35's on stock gears. Many regear, some don't feel the performance is bad enough to justify the cost. It just depends on 'your' opinion of the power, which engine you have, which transmission, where you live, how you drive, etc.
35's instead of 33's is just about the extra clearance. You need to move the tires out far enough (rim backspace/offset/spacers), and keeping them off the fenders (lift, flat/chopped flares/taller bumpstops). You are already getting a 2.5" lift, a good set of wheel spacers is around $200, chopping the flares is free. (there are a bunch of threads and youtube videos on the process.)
Gearing is a preference. Lots of people drive 35's on stock gears. Many regear, some don't feel the performance is bad enough to justify the cost. It just depends on 'your' opinion of the power, which engine you have, which transmission, where you live, how you drive, etc.
35's instead of 33's is just about the extra clearance. You need to move the tires out far enough (rim backspace/offset/spacers), and keeping them off the fenders (lift, flat/chopped flares/taller bumpstops). You are already getting a 2.5" lift, a good set of wheel spacers is around $200, chopping the flares is free. (there are a bunch of threads and youtube videos on the process.)
Last edited by nthinuf; 10-14-2014 at 11:16 AM.
10-14-2014, 12:59 PM
#23
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I think I got a fairly good deal for my gears (which just got done a few weeks ago).
5:38 with master install kits - $499 shipped. Install was $400 and that included axle seals. Since I was getting such a good deal, I had them do synergy ball joints as well (got a deal on those too).
In CO, you have some monster elevation passes, so I went 5:38s to get some extra torque for the 35s. I have the anemic 3.8/auto.
I've been driving on 33s for the last 2 weeks and it drives great. It should only get better once I go to 35s, but I'm also thinking about 37s now.
5:38 with master install kits - $499 shipped. Install was $400 and that included axle seals. Since I was getting such a good deal, I had them do synergy ball joints as well (got a deal on those too).
In CO, you have some monster elevation passes, so I went 5:38s to get some extra torque for the 35s. I have the anemic 3.8/auto.
I've been driving on 33s for the last 2 weeks and it drives great. It should only get better once I go to 35s, but I'm also thinking about 37s now.
10-14-2014, 01:04 PM
#24
JK Junkie
I think I got a fairly good deal for my gears (which just got done a few weeks ago).
5:38 with master install kits - $499 shipped. Install was $400 and that included axle seals. Since I was getting such a good deal, I had them do synergy ball joints as well (got a deal on those too).
In CO, you have some monster elevation passes, so I went 5:38s to get some extra torque for the 35s. I have the anemic 3.8/auto.
I've been driving on 33s for the last 2 weeks and it drives great. It should only get better once I go to 35s, but I'm also thinking about 37s now.
5:38 with master install kits - $499 shipped. Install was $400 and that included axle seals. Since I was getting such a good deal, I had them do synergy ball joints as well (got a deal on those too).
In CO, you have some monster elevation passes, so I went 5:38s to get some extra torque for the 35s. I have the anemic 3.8/auto.
I've been driving on 33s for the last 2 weeks and it drives great. It should only get better once I go to 35s, but I'm also thinking about 37s now.
10-14-2014, 01:14 PM
#25
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I am not a good person to tell you what everything cost because I got my 5.13's and what ever limited slips are in the axles for the $500 it cost me to have a shop. actually everything I have done to my jeep so far has been a great deal for me. 2.5" RK lift that was free but missing a few parts has cost me $400, the gear swap cost $500, tires and wheels were swapped for my 33's plus $300 I installed the lift my self so that was nothing. all in all I have less in my suspension/wheels/tires/gears than what most people spend on a gear swap.
10-14-2014, 01:28 PM
#26
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10-14-2014, 02:23 PM
#27
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10-14-2014, 02:33 PM
#28
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To the original poster -
You had mentioned that you were thinking of running 35"s on 16" wheels. As mentioned before, your tire selection will become a bit limited. Most of the bigger tires that can be wrapped on a 16" wheel will be E-rated and very stiff.
In case you're curious though, here is my JKU on 35" MTRs on 16" wheels, and a 3.5 lift.
You had mentioned that you were thinking of running 35"s on 16" wheels. As mentioned before, your tire selection will become a bit limited. Most of the bigger tires that can be wrapped on a 16" wheel will be E-rated and very stiff.
In case you're curious though, here is my JKU on 35" MTRs on 16" wheels, and a 3.5 lift.
10-14-2014, 05:52 PM
#29
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I just picked up a 2014 JKU Sport..Doing my homework..I'm not even sure what my gears are stock, anyone know?? Im getting 21+ mpg now..want 35's on 2.5 of lift..thinking I'll drop down to 16-17 mpg..sound about right?? Do the JKU 14's with the newer engine need the regear for just 35's?
