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WTOR Hydro Install Help

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Old 01-07-2017, 03:20 PM
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Default WTOR Hydro Install Help

I have everything in place and adjusted. I have not added fluid yet because the 2 WTOR lines from the gearbox that have 90* fittings built in seem to be able to be loosened by hand no matter how much I tighten them. They just don't seem to completely tighten... If I turn the metal portion of the line coutner clockwise by hand the bolt portion will loosen!

Also Im not 100% confident which line goes to the fixed side of the ram. I currently have the top line going to the driver side and the side port line to the passenger side as the lines are the same length and that would give each line the same amount of slack with the fixed side of the ram mounted to the track bar bracket.
Old 01-07-2017, 04:04 PM
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I don't know about the fitting. What does it look like? Is it the correct flare? For the cylinder I'd suggest unhooking the rod and turning the steering wheel to make sure it moves the right way before you connect it.
Old 01-07-2017, 05:52 PM
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I had it hooked up backwards, I switched the hoses at the pump in an effort to not loose a ton of fluid and make a mess. I just tightened the hoses as much as possible rotating the hose the last few inches with the fitting.

My Next question is from lock to lock the ram stops a little short of the steering stops (1/3) of a steering wheel rotation. This limits my turning radius, can i get that steering travel back without a new ram?
Old 01-07-2017, 08:09 PM
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To increase the turning swing you have to have a longer ram. What is limiting the ram's length right now? Mine was too long, I had to build an adjustable stopper that limited about the last 3/4" of travel, not sure what length they're shipping these days.

Keep in mind you want the ram to bottom out before you hit steering stops. This is really important because the ram is rated to act as a limit stopper for itself, but if the steering stops become the limit it'll wreck your ball joints pretty quickly.


Regarding direction, sounds like you got it figured out but it does say in the instructions which way to hook it up. Keep in mind that with the ram not bolted to anything and with the engine off, the ram will go opposite of what you'd expect when you turn the wheel. When the engine is on, it then goes the correct way.


As for the 90* fittings seeming loose, I also was very concerned. I've been running it for probably over a year now and haven't had any issues. Unless there's tension on a hose that's trying to unscrew it, it should not loosen even though it's easy to loosen with your hand. If you're really worried about it, you can get swivel fittings.

Highly recommend thoroughly reviewing hose routing both now, and after a month goes by, to make sure the hoses aren't being abraded by anything (and make sure they're not abrading some other hose!). My initial routing was cutting open a hydro hose on a bracket, and a hydro hose was wearing through a coolant hose. I caught this early enough to re-route the hoses such that they are no longer hurting anything. Another one I found is an AC hose was getting cut up by one of the new fittings on top of the gear box.
Old 01-08-2017, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by christensent
To increase the turning swing you have to have a longer ram. What is limiting the ram's length right now? Mine was too long, I had to build an adjustable stopper that limited about the last 3/4" of travel, not sure what length they're shipping these days.

Keep in mind you want the ram to bottom out before you hit steering stops. This is really important because the ram is rated to act as a limit stopper for itself, but if the steering stops become the limit it'll wreck your ball joints pretty quickly.


Regarding direction, sounds like you got it figured out but it does say in the instructions which way to hook it up. Keep in mind that with the ram not bolted to anything and with the engine off, the ram will go opposite of what you'd expect when you turn the wheel. When the engine is on, it then goes the correct way.


As for the 90* fittings seeming loose, I also was very concerned. I've been running it for probably over a year now and haven't had any issues. Unless there's tension on a hose that's trying to unscrew it, it should not loosen even though it's easy to loosen with your hand. If you're really worried about it, you can get swivel fittings.

Highly recommend thoroughly reviewing hose routing both now, and after a month goes by, to make sure the hoses aren't being abraded by anything (and make sure they're not abrading some other hose!). My initial routing was cutting open a hydro hose on a bracket, and a hydro hose was wearing through a coolant hose. I caught this early enough to re-route the hoses such that they are no longer hurting anything. Another one I found is an AC hose was getting cut up by one of the new fittings on top of the gear box.
This reply is spot on about the hose routing and the steering stop. I, too, ended up re-routing my hoses. I also recommend that you cycle your suspension 100% with the hoses connected. By that, I mean take your rims off. Droop the passenger and compress the driver all the way and cycle the steering from stop to stop. Then droop the driver and compress the passenger all the way and cycle steering again. Then droop both sides all the way and cycle steering. Then compress both all the way and cycle steering. I ended up needing a longer hose for the passenger side of the ram based on suspension travel.
Old 01-08-2017, 04:58 AM
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The ideal hydro hose routing is to zip-tie it to the entire length of the track bar (or an upper control arm, but that's in most cases less practical), coming off the axle end to the ram and off the frame end to the gear box. You probably can't achieve this with the WTOR hose lengths but I was able to mostly get it.

When routed in this manner, there is almost zero hose movement through full suspension travel compared to running the hoses straight from the box to the ram, which has huge amounts of hose motion with respect to everything else in the engine bay.
Old 01-08-2017, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by christensent
To increase the turning swing you have to have a longer ram. What is limiting the ram's length right now? Mine was too long, I had to build an adjustable stopper that limited about the last 3/4" of travel, not sure what length they're shipping these days.

Keep in mind you want the ram to bottom out before you hit steering stops. This is really important because the ram is rated to act as a limit stopper for itself, but if the steering stops become the limit it'll wreck your ball joints pretty quickly.


Regarding direction, sounds like you got it figured out but it does say in the instructions which way to hook it up. Keep in mind that with the ram not bolted to anything and with the engine off, the ram will go opposite of what you'd expect when you turn the wheel. When the engine is on, it then goes the correct way.


As for the 90* fittings seeming loose, I also was very concerned. I've been running it for probably over a year now and haven't had any issues. Unless there's tension on a hose that's trying to unscrew it, it should not loosen even though it's easy to loosen with your hand. If you're really worried about it, you can get swivel fittings.

Highly recommend thoroughly reviewing hose routing both now, and after a month goes by, to make sure the hoses aren't being abraded by anything (and make sure they're not abrading some other hose!). My initial routing was cutting open a hydro hose on a bracket, and a hydro hose was wearing through a coolant hose. I caught this early enough to re-route the hoses such that they are no longer hurting anything. Another one I found is an AC hose was getting cut up by one of the new fittings on top of the gear box.
Thanks for the info, this was very helpful! My Ram is a little shorter than I wanted it but I'll just deal with it for now. I have about 1/2" left before the steering stops contact on both sides. I have the hoses running tight against the coolant overflow and straight to the ram. I turned the fittings a bit to relieve any twisting tension, but have them firmly in place. I plan on cycling the suspension and checking clearances, I will likely pickup a slightly longer hose with a swivel type fitting to go from the top of the gearbox to the passenger side ram. I will just use that existing hose as an extra hose and keep it with me.

I bled the system last night, I think I have all the air out. I was getting a bit of cavitation at first, it was much louder than I thought it would be. After what seemed like a million cycles everything seems smooth, we'll find out today on a quick costco run. Thanks Again!
Old 01-09-2017, 12:05 AM
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Be sure to cycle the steering several times with the vehicle weight on the tires before you drive it. Just to be sure.
Old 01-09-2017, 06:27 AM
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Is your WTOR ram in alignment with your tie rod, or are you coming at the tie rod at an angle? I have the same WTOR Redneck Ram Assist and the ram goes to full extent/compress before the Dynatrac axle goes to full lock in both directions. But If I were to be at an angle, I could see where the ram would quickly be too short.
Old 01-10-2017, 05:52 PM
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I recently had the WTO hydro assist installed, running the 1 1/2" x 6" Ram. Like the setup a lot ,curious what brand power steering fluid you guys are using in your setups ?


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