Brake Bleeding/ABS
 

I received my Crown extended lines and borrowed a vacuum system from a friend to bleed my brakes. (No one around to pump the pedal for me). I was reading the owners manual that came with the vacuum pump and there is a warning in there about ABS systems and "some vehicles" requiring the system to be pressurized. ??
I have read WOL's write up and it's the same as every other vehicle I've ever bled the brakes on.
Just wondering if anyone else has come across this for ABS systems?

By the way, the pressure they talk about is applied from the master cylinder according to the manual that came with the vacuum pump. I've never heard of this before.

I have done mine and didnt have any problems bleeding them. As you said, they were like any other vehicle. I read WOL's write up and I also looked in my factory service manaul. The only difference was the manual reccomemended using a brake holding tool to push the pedal down an inch when you change the front lines. This was supposed to lock or isolate the master cylinder to miniminze the amount of fluid you lost from the front lines. I did notice that the front lines continuously poured fluid out of them until the new lines were on. The rear stopped after a few seconds. I had to fill the master cylinder a few times. I lost alot of fluid when I did the fronts. Im going to recheck the manual when I get home from work, but I dont remember anything that specifically mentioned the abs.:thinking:

So these really work? I was looking at them, I thought they looked alot easier then making my wife pump the brakes :rotflmao1: She has the attention span of a knat when I ask her to help me in the garage :crazyeyes:

Thanks for the reply.

Let me know if you find out anything different. I won't install them today as I have to go to work in a little while.

Yeah, I've checked those out, but have read good and bad things about them. The bad being that they ring off really easy!

ok, I read through the service manual more and it does mention if you use a "pressure bleeding system" then you need to use the mopar master cylinder adapter. None is needed if you do the standard proceedure that WOL listed.

PRESSURE BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at all times.

Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Generally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for bleeding.

Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.

Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cylinder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leakage, or drawing air back into the system.





And there are special instructions for the ABS system, but I dont think they are necessary unless you mess with the actual ABS components. The directions for Removal/installation of the brake lines only tells you to use the standard bleeding proceedure, not the ABS one. Here's the ABS one anyway.


BLEEDING ABS BRAKE SYSTEM
ABS system bleeding requires conventional bleeding methods plus use of the DRB scan tool. The procedure involves performing a base brake bleeding, followed by use of the scan tool to cycle and bleed the HCU pump and solenoids. A second base brake bleeding procedure is then required to remove any air remaining in the system.


1. Perform base brake bleeding. Refer to base brake section for procedure.
2. Connect scan tool to the Data Link Connector.
3. Select ANTILOCK BRAKES, followed by MISCELLANEOUS, then ABS BRAKES. Follow the instructions displayed. When scan tool displays TEST COMPLETE, disconnect scan tool and proceed.
4. Perform base brake bleeding a second time. Refer to base brake section for procedure.
5. Top off master cylinder fluid level and verify proper brake operation before moving vehicle.

I bought the speed bleeders for my JK. They worked great. I plan on ordering a set for every vehicle I own before I do a brake job. They make it so easy.

all i do is remove the cap from the master, open the bleeder valve, sit and wait.. they bleed all by themselves... just make sure you keep the fluid in the master topped off....

always worked for me, and believe it or not it doesnt take all that long.

(A Jeep tech told me to do it like that)

I put the SpeedBleeders on my JK when I installed longer brake lines and they worked great. It was the easiest and best job of bleeding I've ever done. I'll be putting them on any vehicle I own that I do brake work on from now on.