EGR Valve Replacement (DTC P0406)
#11
JK Newbie
Great write-up! I just had to replace my EGR valve today also. I did one thing different that saved a little bit of time. I only removed the inner fender and left the outside fender in place. You can still get to everything easily with just that one piece removed. I had to get my replacement from the dealer because this is a "special order" item at Autozone and I had to get it done today. Just FYI, it costs about $40 more at the dealer.
#12
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Suffield, CT
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Good write up. I just bought a 2008 JK and the CEL came on with the code for the EGR valve. Can't get past emissions until this is fixed and took a look at it this morning. Saw that it was way in the back and was like damn. On my Charger it is right in front and about a 5 minute fix. This DIY certainly helps to see another way to do it. Hopefully I can get it done over the week-end but doubt it by the sounds of part availability.
#13
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Just wanted to update that I replaced the EGR valve assembly last night. It was a quick procedure, removing the fender and tire was the best bet, then using the sockets to unbolt the valve was a piece of cake. While the fender was off, I decided to replace the spark plugs seeing how they have 84000 miles and figured it wouldn't hurt at this point.
So from start (rolling in the garage) to finish (rolling back out) including replacing all the spark plugs I spent 2 hours.
Now I either have to let the CEL cycle to ready or get the code cleared.
So from start (rolling in the garage) to finish (rolling back out) including replacing all the spark plugs I spent 2 hours.
Now I either have to let the CEL cycle to ready or get the code cleared.
#14
FYI - This writeup only applies to JKs with the six-speed. If you have the automatic, the dipstick tube for the transmission is routed directly between the EGR valve and the firewall, reducing your access to the 10 MM bolts to almost nothing. Access to the bolts holding the dipstick tube in place is even worse.
I'm working on modifying a wrench to get in there - if I can't I may have to pull the engine...
I'm working on modifying a wrench to get in there - if I can't I may have to pull the engine...
Last edited by DDewar53; 04-26-2011 at 08:42 AM.
#16
I'm getting code P0404. Dealer is 99% sure that a new EGR valve will cover it. I'm getting ready to tackle this myself, as I don't want to drop $500 to have them do it for me.
The one question I have is with removing the inner fender liner (without pulling the outer fender). I haven't really looked into the wheel well yet so I'm not sure what needs to happen to remove the liner. I assume its a only couple bolts and/or plastic fasteners holding it in? If plastic fasteners, are they they type where I'm going to want to make sure I have spares on hand?
The one question I have is with removing the inner fender liner (without pulling the outer fender). I haven't really looked into the wheel well yet so I'm not sure what needs to happen to remove the liner. I assume its a only couple bolts and/or plastic fasteners holding it in? If plastic fasteners, are they they type where I'm going to want to make sure I have spares on hand?
#17
JK Newbie
Yes, if you take just the inner fender out you will need to have some extra plastic fasteners on hand. Sorry I can't remember how many it took exactly, but you can just count them up before you take it out.
#19
OK, done. Here's my story.
I did get the fender off, and only broke a few of the clips. Just need to buy about two. The dipstick tube was in the way for the bolt you can't see. I removed the bolt holding the tube near the work area (about 3" below the EGR valve). The bolt is also fun to get too, but it was well worth loosening up the tube. I then used a few socket extensions up near the top of the tube to prop it over towards the driver's area.
EGR valve was very rusted out in the center working area.
The work was difficult in every way possible from removing the bolts, to even removing the connector. Someone with small hands would be handy to have around.
Done. No codes after a few miles. I will come back to the forum if the code comes back.
P.S. I had code P0404.
I did get the fender off, and only broke a few of the clips. Just need to buy about two. The dipstick tube was in the way for the bolt you can't see. I removed the bolt holding the tube near the work area (about 3" below the EGR valve). The bolt is also fun to get too, but it was well worth loosening up the tube. I then used a few socket extensions up near the top of the tube to prop it over towards the driver's area.
EGR valve was very rusted out in the center working area.
The work was difficult in every way possible from removing the bolts, to even removing the connector. Someone with small hands would be handy to have around.
Done. No codes after a few miles. I will come back to the forum if the code comes back.
P.S. I had code P0404.
Last edited by Nostep; 05-21-2011 at 03:33 AM.
#20
Eternal ***erator
OK, done. Here's my story.
I did get the fender off, and only broke a few of the clips. Just need to buy about two. The dipstick tube was in the way for the bolt you can't see. I removed the bolt holding the tube near the work area (about 3" below the EGR valve). The bolt is also fun to get too, but it was well worth loosening up the tube. I then used a few socket extensions up near the top of the tube to prop it over towards the driver's area.
EGR valve was very rusted out in the center working area.
The work was difficult in every way possible from removing the bolts, to even removing the connector. Someone with small hands would be handy to have around.
Done. No codes after a few miles. I will come back to the forum if the code comes back.
P.S. I had code P0404.
I did get the fender off, and only broke a few of the clips. Just need to buy about two. The dipstick tube was in the way for the bolt you can't see. I removed the bolt holding the tube near the work area (about 3" below the EGR valve). The bolt is also fun to get too, but it was well worth loosening up the tube. I then used a few socket extensions up near the top of the tube to prop it over towards the driver's area.
EGR valve was very rusted out in the center working area.
The work was difficult in every way possible from removing the bolts, to even removing the connector. Someone with small hands would be handy to have around.
Done. No codes after a few miles. I will come back to the forum if the code comes back.
P.S. I had code P0404.