Potential Problems with Suspension Lift?
08-19-2011, 08:01 PM
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Potential Problems with Suspension Lift?
Hello all. I recently purchased an unlimited sahara and am having a 4" pro comp suspension lift installed with 35x12.50 tires. My question is related to various potential problems that i have been reading about such as: tire pressure indicator light coming on, front tires rubbing against axil, and future sagging. Anyone experience these issues or any others i should be prepared for?
08-20-2011, 02:33 AM
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Study up on aftermarket driveshafts and adjustable control arms and "exploding" transfer cases (search those terms--there's tons on info on them). Unless you're planning on even larger tires, I question why you'd put that much lift on.
08-20-2011, 06:52 AM
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reply: potential problems with suspension lift?
Thanks guys. The biggest surprise for me in terms of properly setting up a jeep for lift and tires has been the total cost: the cost of lift, cost of tires on 18" wheels is expensive, regearing, spacers/new wheels, etc.. Again i do thank you all for your reply and it should be a fun process of building the jeep i want. i have to do alot more research and probably do alot of learning the hard way.
08-20-2011, 08:53 AM
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x2 .....
It doesn't have to be expensive to run 35s.
You can run 35s with no suspension lift, a 1" body lift, flat flares, and 1" rear extended bumpstops.
Budget:
Bushwacker or Xenon flat flares, $400-$500 (or trim your stock flares for free)
1" body lift, $120-$150
1" rear extended bumpstops, $2 for 2 used hockey pucks to install on the stock rear pads
35x12.50R15 BFG, Goodyear, Cooper, or other tires are about $200-$220 each
15x8 steel wheels with 4" or 3.75" backspacing are about $50 each
Adjust your steering stops, $0
Trim your stock plastic front lower air dam, $0
Trim your rear fender well pinch seam, $0
Sell your stock wheels and tires to offset the cost, $400-$600.
So, if you trim your own flares and install the 1" body lift yourself, you are looking at a net $600-$800 to be on 35s (purchasing 4).
Then, buy a 5th wheel and find a used spare on Craigslist for another total of $100-$150.
Then, buy a Superchips tuner for more power and to correct your speedometer for $330.
Then, buy the Bushwhackers if you want a more factory type look than trimmed stock flares.
Then, the next big step is to buy a pair of take off Rubicon front and rear axles that have already been regeared for about $3500 and sell your axles for about $1000 to offset the cost. This is less expensive than paying $1600 for lockers, $1300 to regear, and $150 for an ARB compressor.
Along the way, if you want, you can buy a used 2.5" coil spacer lift on the forum for less than $200, or do it instead of the body lift to start with.
It doesn't have to be expensive.
It is silly to buy ubber expensive, blingy wheels and tires so much so that you can't afford to regear.
You can run 35s with no suspension lift, a 1" body lift, flat flares, and 1" rear extended bumpstops.
Budget:
Bushwacker or Xenon flat flares, $400-$500 (or trim your stock flares for free)
1" body lift, $120-$150
1" rear extended bumpstops, $2 for 2 used hockey pucks to install on the stock rear pads
35x12.50R15 BFG, Goodyear, Cooper, or other tires are about $200-$220 each
15x8 steel wheels with 4" or 3.75" backspacing are about $50 each
Adjust your steering stops, $0
Trim your stock plastic front lower air dam, $0
Trim your rear fender well pinch seam, $0
Sell your stock wheels and tires to offset the cost, $400-$600.
So, if you trim your own flares and install the 1" body lift yourself, you are looking at a net $600-$800 to be on 35s (purchasing 4).
Then, buy a 5th wheel and find a used spare on Craigslist for another total of $100-$150.
Then, buy a Superchips tuner for more power and to correct your speedometer for $330.
Then, buy the Bushwhackers if you want a more factory type look than trimmed stock flares.
Then, the next big step is to buy a pair of take off Rubicon front and rear axles that have already been regeared for about $3500 and sell your axles for about $1000 to offset the cost. This is less expensive than paying $1600 for lockers, $1300 to regear, and $150 for an ARB compressor.
Along the way, if you want, you can buy a used 2.5" coil spacer lift on the forum for less than $200, or do it instead of the body lift to start with.
It doesn't have to be expensive.
It is silly to buy ubber expensive, blingy wheels and tires so much so that you can't afford to regear.
X2.... Nice write up Planman!!!
08-20-2011, 10:15 AM
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i was thinking that a large percent or atleast a decent percent of the people with 35" tires had 4" suspension lifts. unfortunately money wise, i have already purchased the lift with upgraded shocks (around $800) and i like the look of my factory rims which are 18 so i have also already purchased 5 pro comp xmud tires-but i did get one free ($1600). i also purchased an orfab rear bumper, smittybilt mod front bumper (backorder) and a winch. so i guess what im getting at is that i have spent several thousand dollars and it seems i still need to purchase other stuff according to the other posts, such as regearing etc. i know the opinion on regearing depends on performance expectations, so i plan on seeing how it runs before i do that. im pretty sure my 2007 sahara has 4.11 rear because it has a factory towing package. for some reason, i think this may have been the only year jeep did this on the sahara. thanks again for all of your input
08-20-2011, 10:41 AM
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I run 35's on factory wheels with the 4.10's. It is bearable but a dog on the interstate. Turn off overdrive. Run the tires around 30 psi. I wouldn't worry too much about sagging, 4" is more than enough. Consider 5.13's and superchips in the future as well as a front driveshaft. Enjoy!
08-20-2011, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by planman
I wouldn't install an $800 short arm 4" lift on my rig if someone gave it to me.
The reason why is that it would be woefully incomplete and have poor quality shocks.
Read the FAQ about what should be included in a 4" lift, steering correction, front driveshaft clearance, etc.
Also, read up on cam bolts, and read about the steering box failures of guys who offroad with drop pitman arms without a sector shaft brace. Read about stock trackbar brackets that get torn off by relocation brackets.
Kind of strong, I know, but I would return it for an $800 2.5" kit from Teraflex.
Then, read p
The reason why is that it would be woefully incomplete and have poor quality shocks.
Read the FAQ about what should be included in a 4" lift, steering correction, front driveshaft clearance, etc.
Also, read up on cam bolts, and read about the steering box failures of guys who offroad with drop pitman arms without a sector shaft brace. Read about stock trackbar brackets that get torn off by relocation brackets.
Kind of strong, I know, but I would return it for an $800 2.5" kit from Teraflex.
Then, read p
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08-20-2011, 06:41 PM
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Oh dont worry, i dont think what you posted is hard. i am just trying to look at the differences in the kits. i wasnt able to download the pics of each but as i look at each one, it seems as though the tera flex's front sway bar disconnects and the pro comp is stationary. also the tera flex has a rear track bar bracket. is this the main difference or is your point the quality of material used? i have read many people that are happy with the pro comp lifts. i guess if it is a must i will spend another 500 bucks but this will be on the highway 98% of the time. so i guess it also has to be understood what i will be using the jeep for-pretty much nothing other than riding on the road. it is to be my daily driver and i just really want it to look as i have pictured in my head. so as far as breaking off parts under the jeep, i hope im never in a situation like that. but if this pro comp lift is so cheap that it wont even hold up the jeep, your right i dont want that. will this lift kit function as a daily street driver or should i worry about that as well?
Tera Flex 4"
Includes shocks
4" extended length coils
Front sway bar disconnects
Rear track bar bracket
Bump stops
Pro Comp 4"
Front lift: Coil springs
Front sway bar links
Bump stop extensions
Rear lift: Coil springs
Shocks: front/rear MX-6 shocks
Tera Flex 4"
Includes shocks
4" extended length coils
Front sway bar disconnects
Rear track bar bracket
Bump stops
Pro Comp 4"
Front lift: Coil springs
Front sway bar links
Bump stop extensions
Rear lift: Coil springs
Shocks: front/rear MX-6 shocks
08-20-2011, 07:02 PM
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Actually, he suggested the TF 2.5" kit, (3" actual height), Not the 4" kit (5" actual height). Lower height generally means fewer added components and less chance of replacing driveshafts. You were also pointed to the FAQ's (stickied to the top of this modified area) for the 'suggested' components for a 4" lift. (Taller coils may give you more height, but it is the added components that make the performance and handling not suck). So, compare what is in your kit to the suggested components, not to another 'incomplete' kit.
08-20-2011, 07:11 PM
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i get what you are saying, i think. so if it gets over 3" there are potential problems. thanks for the clarity. i guess i was thinking the quality of the kit vs kit rather than what any 4" kit will need. thank yall for putting up with my ignorance.