Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Ripped rear drive shaft boot on 2012

Old 11-28-2011, 08:41 PM
  #11  
JK Freak
 
bbolander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Mesquite, NV
Posts: 616
Received 24 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by kgw350
I just put a aftermarket skid on and its fine now but already ripped the boot. The factory one could be modified but its kind of light metal so i just replaced it.
good to know that the aftermarket one solved the problem, think i'll take that route. was it the poison spyder skid?
Old 11-28-2011, 11:49 PM
  #12  
JK Freak
 
bbolander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Mesquite, NV
Posts: 616
Received 24 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bbolander
thanks, i'll have to take a look at it tonight and take a picture and measurement. from memory, the clearance when standing in the garage wasn't much, don't believe i was several inches. that might be because your taller lift has the evap skid higher up in relation to your drive shaft than mine.
here's some pictures. you can see the damage to the boot and skid, not bad, and the distance from the boot to the stock skid. looks like i need another 1/4" or 1/2" clearance. this happened when i was in an anza borrego mud hills ravine going over a mogul with the back on a steep off camber coming off the drivers side wall and the front dropping. i did many more moguls that maxed out the travel that weren't off camber and didn't hear anything in the back, they were ok. so i think the body of the jeep shifted a little to the passenger side due to the off camber situation. i checked my rear track bar alignment and the axle is about 1/4" to the drivers side. the mopar 2" lift does come with a rear track bar bracket for the axle to correct for the lift. no adjustable rear track bar though.

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1248m.jpg
Views:	318
Size:	67.8 KB
ID:	243352Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1244i.jpg
Views:	295
Size:	78.9 KB
ID:	243353Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1243h.jpg
Views:	267
Size:	50.0 KB
ID:	243354Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1239d.jpg
Views:	316
Size:	74.2 KB
ID:	243355

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1250o.jpg
Views:	297
Size:	54.7 KB
ID:	243357

i'm going to try the poison spyder skid and see if it helps.

Last edited by bbolander; 11-28-2011 at 11:56 PM.
Old 11-29-2011, 03:52 AM
  #13  
JK Enthusiast
 
bo9roadking's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bbolander
here's some pictures. you can see the damage to the boot and skid, not bad, and the distance from the boot to the stock skid. looks like i need another 1/4" or 1/2" clearance. this happened when i was in an anza borrego mud hills ravine going over a mogul with the back on a steep off camber coming off the drivers side wall and the front dropping. i did many more moguls that maxed out the travel that weren't off camber and didn't hear anything in the back, they were ok. so i think the body of the jeep shifted a little to the passenger side due to the off camber situation. i checked my rear track bar alignment and the axle is about 1/4" to the drivers side. the mopar 2" lift does come with a rear track bar bracket for the axle to correct for the lift. no adjustable rear track bar though.

Attachment 243352Attachment 243353Attachment 243354Attachment 243355

Attachment 243357

i'm going to try the poison spyder skid and see if it helps.
Let us know if the poison spyder skid works better and how much clearance you get. I know the poison spyder skid is much more stout.
Old 11-29-2011, 08:18 AM
  #14  
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
 
kgw350's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Montgomery,ny
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I think mine was the rugged ridge i bought it a while ago i will get some pictures later so everyone can see the clearance difference. Also have to drill a hole to hold the evap to the skid i have zip ties for now.
Old 12-02-2011, 07:20 PM
  #15  
JK Freak
 
bbolander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Mesquite, NV
Posts: 616
Received 24 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

here's my post on the poison spyder install and the measurement comparisons with the stock 2012 evap skid. i think it will fix the problem.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...96#post2699096
Old 12-06-2011, 09:29 AM
  #16  
JK Enthusiast
 
bo9roadking's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bbolander
here's my post on the poison spyder install and the measurement comparisons with the stock 2012 evap skid. i think it will fix the problem.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...96#post2699096
Looks like the PS skid should do the trick. Thanks for posting your install pics.
Old 12-11-2011, 01:59 PM
  #17  
JK Newbie
 
MileHiJKGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Moved factory evap skid away from drive shaft

I pulled the factory evap skid today and drilled a few new holes 1-7/8" over to the center. Used this number since that is the spacing on the pair of factory holes in the front. I am now using one factory hole and the new one I drilled at the front and the single new hole in the rear. The lines all connected back up but it is very tight, anyone else doing this may only want to move the hole over 1-1/2" for the single dole in the rear. I am just tired of the drive line connecting the evap skid and this buys a lot of space. I will look into an aftermarket skid if I beat this on up with any trail damage, but I have not damaged the evap skid across anything yet (except for the drive shaft), I have run a bunch of trails in Colorado and Moab.
Old 12-11-2011, 03:00 PM
  #18  
JK Freak
 
bbolander's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Mesquite, NV
Posts: 616
Received 24 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by MileHiJKGuy
I pulled the factory evap skid today and drilled a few new holes 1-7/8" over to the center. Used this number since that is the spacing on the pair of factory holes in the front. I am now using one factory hole and the new one I drilled at the front and the single new hole in the rear. The lines all connected back up but it is very tight, anyone else doing this may only want to move the hole over 1-1/2" for the single dole in the rear. I am just tired of the drive line connecting the evap skid and this buys a lot of space. I will look into an aftermarket skid if I beat this on up with any trail damage, but I have not damaged the evap skid across anything yet (except for the drive shaft), I have run a bunch of trails in Colorado and Moab.
i'm still glad i have the psc skid, but that's a good idea. i can imagine how tight the connecting tubes are at the back.
Old 12-12-2011, 02:27 PM
  #19  
JK Enthusiast
 
BlueLespaul2006's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Newark, DE
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by f2fast4u
A question: is this clearance issue just relative to the JKU's or has someone in a 2 dr. had the same issues?
I was wondering the same thing. I looked under my 2 door and it seems that the DS boot is about 2-3" away. But I never realized how short the rear DS is on the 2 door.


Quick Reply: Ripped rear drive shaft boot on 2012



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:11 AM.