sound deadener
11-12-2012, 08:30 AM
#11
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Look up lizard skin they have spray sound deadening with thermal block to reduce heat ,I was planing on using this product last summer but had no time maybe next year, I was even going to raptor line over for extra deadening
11-12-2012, 09:49 AM
#12
Yes, Very effective. I'm telling you it's what you'll find in abundance in Mercedes, BMW, Lexus etc...
Back in the days, I was intrigued by what makes those cars so silent so I spent a lot of time in junkyards ripping the interiors of those brands apart. One of the key materials straight to the metal is bitumen based sound deadener.
(As a rule, there is no ONE material that will be a cure for all as different frequencies need different treatment)
"Dynamat" is a similar material that is quite effective as well ... but lots of it is needed as it is not as thick as let's say " VABER " to name one brand. Thickness plays a role and density plays a role.
For safety, it is important to use materials that are approved for automotive use.
In my job I deal a lot with sound studios, so I know a "thing or two" about sound proofing.
Back in the days, I was intrigued by what makes those cars so silent so I spent a lot of time in junkyards ripping the interiors of those brands apart. One of the key materials straight to the metal is bitumen based sound deadener.
(As a rule, there is no ONE material that will be a cure for all as different frequencies need different treatment)
"Dynamat" is a similar material that is quite effective as well ... but lots of it is needed as it is not as thick as let's say " VABER " to name one brand. Thickness plays a role and density plays a role.
For safety, it is important to use materials that are approved for automotive use.
In my job I deal a lot with sound studios, so I know a "thing or two" about sound proofing.
Back at the computer after a long day… Thanks for the detailed reply.
Sound insulation materials also insulate heat, so I wonder about using this self-sticking bitumen based sound deadener for the top.
This raises 2 questions… Will the glue hold it long-term, installed upside down under the top? Can the material be painted?
Do you have any experience with these 2 issues?
11-12-2012, 10:24 AM
#13
Checked the website of LizardSkin spray-on insulation -- it looks promising...
did anyone here use it, and what's the feedback ?
did anyone here use it, and what's the feedback ?
Last edited by GJeep; 11-12-2012 at 10:27 AM.
11-12-2012, 11:31 AM
#14
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I have the Hothead headliners full set on my 11 JKUR, including the side window panels. I also used Dynamat (and the cheap Home Depot roofing self adhesive stuff) on the entire floor front to back and side to side, and under all 4 door panels, and under the rear gate storage, and even around the front windshield under the trim and even under some dash parts; it made a huge difference. I even took the rear tail lights out and lined the insides of those openings too. I probably wouldn't reccomend for someone who goes through a lot of water; I think that stuff could trap moisture in and cause premature rusting, but for me it works.
11-12-2012, 11:39 AM
#15
I have the Hothead headliners full set on my 11 JKUR, including the side window panels. I also used Dynamat (and the cheap Home Depot roofing self adhesive stuff) on the entire floor front to back and side to side, and under all 4 door panels, and under the rear gate storage, and even around the front windshield under the trim and even under some dash parts; it made a huge difference. I even took the rear tail lights out and lined the insides of those openings too. I probably wouldn't reccomend for someone who goes through a lot of water; I think that stuff could trap moisture in and cause premature rusting, but for me it works.
More seriously --
Did you do it in stages (e.g. top first and after a while the floor), so you can say which has the greater effect?
11-12-2012, 11:49 AM
#16
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If you haven't already done the Hothead headliners you should probably do those first because they're easy; 10 minutes and they're in. they do help quite a bit and keep the Jeep cooler in hot weather too. Doing all that Dynamat type stuff took quite a while; it's a pain taking out the interior parts and the seats and then putting it all back in. Have some big breaker bars because some of those seat bolts are very, very tight from the factory if you haven't had them out yet.
11-12-2012, 12:07 PM
#17
If you haven't already done the Hothead headliners you should probably do those first because they're easy; 10 minutes and they're in. they do help quite a bit and keep the Jeep cooler in hot weather too. Doing all that Dynamat type stuff took quite a while; it's a pain taking out the interior parts and the seats and then putting it all back in. Have some big breaker bars because some of those seat bolts are very, very tight from the factory if you haven't had them out yet.
I also consider the Bitumen based sound deadener that was mensioned here -- not sure how well it sticks to plastic, upside down.
Then, there's the LizardSkin, which is applied by spraying.
I like 'do & forget' mods, and not having repeated repairs. Not sure which one would stick for good.
11-12-2012, 12:58 PM
#18
I consider the Hothead headliners, but wonder about how long it would stick, there's some reservation about this on their website...
I also consider the Bitumen based sound deadener that was mensioned here -- not sure how well it sticks to plastic, upside down.
Then, there's the LizardSkin, which is applied by spraying.
I like 'do & forget' mods, and not having repeated repairs. Not sure which one would stick for good.
I also consider the Bitumen based sound deadener that was mensioned here -- not sure how well it sticks to plastic, upside down.
Then, there's the LizardSkin, which is applied by spraying.
I like 'do & forget' mods, and not having repeated repairs. Not sure which one would stick for good.
This is what I'm talking about : http://ahttp://www.vaber.it/new_carr...hp?cat=3&pag=2
For the hardtop you are better off with solutions like the ready made JK headliners.
Bottom line your floor pan "Do and Forget" solution is the bitumen based sound deadening panels.
11-12-2012, 01:07 PM
#19
If it;s for the hardtop that you need this stuff for then the automotive bitumen based sound deadening panels won't work. They're too heavy and designed for floor / trunk / firewall / wheel wells applications . They are not designed for overhead applications as they are denser and heavier than Dynomat even.
This is what I'm talking about : http://ahttp://www.vaber.it/new_carr...hp?cat=3&pag=2
For the hardtop you are better off with solutions like the ready made JK headliners.
Bottom line your floor pan "Do and Forget" solution is the bitumen based sound deadening panels.
This is what I'm talking about : http://ahttp://www.vaber.it/new_carr...hp?cat=3&pag=2
For the hardtop you are better off with solutions like the ready made JK headliners.
Bottom line your floor pan "Do and Forget" solution is the bitumen based sound deadening panels.
Yes, I'm mainly interested in insulating the hardtop. We're not that far away from each other, so you know the temp' it gets to in the desert :-)
11-12-2012, 01:12 PM
#20
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Love to see that somewhere in the real world An Israeli and and Egyptian have a common bond...A JEEP. Maybe Jeep needs to flood the Middle Eastern market!
I have used the peel and seal stuff for the inside of airplane cabins.... makes a giant difference on sound and heat/cold transfer. Might actually have been dynomat, but can't remember that far back. Used it on the walls, floor, roof and firewall...It will stick for at least the rest of your lifetime!
I have used the peel and seal stuff for the inside of airplane cabins.... makes a giant difference on sound and heat/cold transfer. Might actually have been dynomat, but can't remember that far back. Used it on the walls, floor, roof and firewall...It will stick for at least the rest of your lifetime!
Last edited by El Dorado; 11-12-2012 at 01:16 PM.