pastorsteve

I guess the bigger question is - If you don't know what you need, or don't need, why are you messing with the equipment on your Jeep that keeps you safe? Have a pro do the job properly. Your next posts will be cursing the Jeep and Chrysler and Fiat because your Jeep has Death Wobble.

FJ Jake

The lift was done by a pro and parts ordered by a pro. However I guess not all pros think of everything. Isn't this why we have a forum? To get advice and thoughts of everyone who enjoys jeeps?

EzK

1) No. You'll need to do two things. Set the track bar to the proper length to recenter your axle. Then you need to recenter your steering wheel(15mm socket and pipe wrench).

2) They used to use these for lifted vehicles but they stress the steering box. Now the preferred way is a drag link flip kit.

Only in the rear. Unless you'll also be installing a drag link flip on the front at the same time.

Running Man

I installed a 3" Zone lift and track bar, along with the bolts. Here is a link to more info from the forum:

1. Replace all the stock 14mm bolts on the track bar and control arms with Grade 8 9/16" bolts (see link below) and torque to specification (125 ft/lbs for everything except the front upper control arms, which are 75 ft/lbs.)

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-t...-bolts-210051/

Hint.....here is a list of parts from the post:
8) 9/16-18 UNF x 4.0" long (LCAs)
(4) 9/16-18 UNF x 3.0" long (TBs)
(12) 9/16-18 UNF lock nuts
(24) 9/16" Extra Thick hardened flat washers

bushpilot

subscribing -

i just added a teraflex leveling kit - put both spacers in the front and one in the rear....
i checked the alignment and discovered the thrust alignment was way out.

w/ a 2 or 2.5 inch lift in the front & 1 inch lift in the rear im shocked to discover i have these issues,
i thought i didnt need adjustable track bars for the leveling / budget boost.

QUESTION: do i need both front & rear bars ??

Atch

Every kit gives every jeep a different lift. If your axles are kicked out further on one side or another & it bugs you or if you want it to be correct get the trackbars. If them being kicked out doesn't bother you don't get them. Personally I wanted everything to be centered up so I have both front and rear jks trackbars

Rob 12B1P

I ran a 1 1/2 TF leveling kit for a year with no issues without having adjustable track bars. I did notice the ass end seemed like it would wag to one side when crossing railroad tracks or other big bumps where the suspension would compress and release but it wasnt anything unsafe or extremely uncomfortable. If you intend to stay with this kit I would probably get a track bar for the front just to get it re-centered. The one inch in the rear isnt going to effect the geometry enough to need adjustment in my opinion.
Rob

dahreno

If you can't look under your jeep and see what the trackbar does , and how to replace it , and how many bolts it takes , you are not machanically minded and should not do the work yourself.Do not take offense to this , I have worked for millionaires that had no mech. aptitude , but could afford me to do the work.

Mschneid

Why: Front tires are sticking out further on the driverside than the passenger after 3" lift. So the new track bar will center the axle. Next the driverside sits a bit higher than the passanger side. The new track bar will help even this out.

What is needed: You will need an adjustable track bar, 2 new 9/16" x 3 (or 3 1/2") grade 8 fine thread bolts, 4 washers, 2 lock washers and 2 nuts. I highly recommend a ProCal to center the steering wheel.

Tools: To remove the stock track bar 21mm socket and wrench, new track bar will need 13/16" socket and 7/8" wrench. For the steering wheel adjustment you will need a 15mm socket or wrench.

I want to share some tips so that you get your steering wheel straight and your wheels.
First, I used my Procal and made sure the Jeep wheels were perfectly straight (using the steering wheel feature on the Procal)
Next, I NEVER let the wheels leave the ground so they were always pointing in the same direction (perfectly straight forward.
Remove the existing track bar while the Jeep is loaded on the ground (it should come right off with no drag on the bolts).
Take the new track bar and attach it to the frame (driverside) I didn't tighten at this point.
Take the adjustable side and spin it out so that it is just a little bit longer than the hole in the axle (as you are looking at the holes they won't line up by 1/4" because the bar to too long).
I then used a block of wood and a floor jack and lifted dead center of my bumper just high enough until the holes lined up and installed the new 9/16" bolt.
Lower the Jeep and check the alignment of the axle. (I did this by placing a 4' straightedge against the top and bottom of the tire then measured the distance to the flare.
It took me 2 or three times of lifting the front end, pulling the bolt, turning the adjuster out a couple of turns then jacking up, install bolt and measure (remove jack).
Once everything was even I tightened both bolts (125 ft lbs) and the jam nut.

Okay, now that the track bar is installed the steering wheel is off (the bottom bar of the steering wheel is now between 8 and 9 o'clock.
Now you have to loosen the 2 nuts on the draglink and use a pipe wrench or Channel Lock to spin the adjuster.
Spin it a few turns and figure out which way it needs to turn.
I then hooked up the ProCal and with the Procal it will light the turn signal indicators inside and outside telling you which way the steering wheel needs to turn. When both ouside turn signals are lit or the high beam indicator is lit your steering wheel is centered ( you will be able to lay on the ground spin the adjustment and watch the turn signals).
Tighten the 2 nuts on the adjuster on the draglink and you are done.

Since I used the Procal to find straight ahead in the beginning and the tires never left the ground plus I never touched the steering wheel (like the instructions say) I should be very very close to where it was initially.

This is how I did it, you may want to do it differently.