Originally Posted by KevinMac

Now that the lift is installed, my vertically challenged girlfriend was having a hell of a time getting in! Being the nice guy that I am, I ordered a set of paracord grab handles. I shopped around a bit and decided on "Surprise Straps" who are based out of Arizona. They are a bit more than most but once I received the product, I was very happy to pay it. I ended up with the double handles for front seats and single for the rear seats. In the front they bolt to the outer sun visor mounting bolt (not screw). They then have very robust buckels that go around the roll bar padding. The rear seat handles simply mount to the soundbar mounting bolts.

All in, it took about 30 minutes to mount all 4. Happily, I can report the g/f can now get in the Jeep again. I'm still slider/step shopping though because I know once I get the 35's that we will be right back where we started. Since I live in the Detroit Metro area, I'm going to support the local guys as I did with AEV and go with the Ace sliders. Ace's shop is less than 10 miles from my house so I hope to find time to stop over there in the next couple of weeks and take a look at some shop/customer rigs. I just need to decide if I do the body mount step style or the weld on slider.

Does anyone have any feedback whether the weld on (my preference) can double as a step or is it soley a slider?





Since I'm here I'll post up a few other quick pics. I got and mounted a tear-away IFAK on the molle tailgate carrier. I also updated the steering wheel buttons as I plan to go ahead and retrofit a myGig stereo into the ride. I never suspected installing the buttons would be so involved. The airbag needed to come out, then the trim ring under it. Kind of a pain in the ass to install a $24 part





Costs:
* Grab Handles - $85
* Molle IFAK - $25
* EVIC Switch - $25

Originally Posted by KevinMac

Background:
2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport S
Manual Climate Control
No Auto Headlights
With Rear Defrost
With Air Conditioning

==================================================

Parts List:
HVACtr Control Unit (1 needed) - P55111170AD
Sun Sensor (1 needed) - 55111275AA
Cabin Temperature Sensor (1 needed) - 55111178AC
4 way Cabin Temperature/Sun Sensor Connector (2 needed) – 68080566AA
16 way HVAC Control Unit Connector (1 needed) – not available from Mopar, I purchased it used on eBay

5ft 22/4 Shielded Stranded Wire, Shrink Tubing, Solder – Home Depot

...

Originally Posted by KevinMac

Came across a fun new upgrade, the Premium EVIC (instrument cluster) from a 2014. My 2013 JKU was a base model, so it had no EVIC. I could have used the premium EVIC from a 2013, however, Jeep upgraded the EVIC capabilities in 2014. The upgrade included things like the digital speedometer and ability to see the transmission temperature.

It is basically plug and play, 3 connectors and everything works great! The only hiccup is the mileage on the new cluster is 2100 lower than my actual. There are places that can adjust it but I may just save the $200...I can do simple math in my head.





- Cost: $95

Originally Posted by WxNerd2015

Sorry to bring up an older mod, but I am new member to the forum, however I have followed your build a bunch. It's been great to watch! I know you said it was a PITA to get the stuff off the steering wheel, but once you got to the controls, it was plug and play? No extra wiring needed? I have a 2011 Sport S and I asked at the dealer for part numbers and such and they said I would need extra harnesses and they could not even call the manufacturer as this was considered an "illegal modification" by Chysler, which to me it crap because most of their parts are used in so many vehicles. But anyways, was it just plug and play for you? I already swapped my stock radio for an RHR from a 2011 Ram 3500 and it was plug and play perfect with no security code (as this was the year before they started the security codes) but I would love the buttons on the steering wheel too!

Thanks!

Originally Posted by twmcneilly

H Kevin, I noticed you mentioned that you lost some or all of the auto headlights function when you installed your LED head lights. I too installed Trucklites, and I too lost the auto function. Also, even with the anti flicker module installed in line, the flickering did not completely smooth out. When using the headlights in Day Time Running light (DRL) mode they flicker just as if there was no anti flicker installed at all. What to do. I didn't have the time to build my own harness so I ordered a TIPM bypass wire harness from Susquehanna MotorSports. This harness bypasses the TIPM, and wires the lights directly to the battery. All 12+ volts are delivered to the head lights now! And, the auto function work perfectly again. I also discovered a second headlight adjustment post which permits the head lights to be aimed left and right, along with up and down, such that the infamous "V" produced by the truck light is now perfectly aligned with the track that each tire rolls in. There is a post on the opposite of the headlight bucket as the Torx up/down screw. You have to use a wrench to adjust this one. No more "v" light pattern moving about depending on the angle of the truck and the rise or fall in the road. I highly recommend either a DIY harness or the prefab one that I installed, which by the way is a very high quality piece and worthy of its price, and the quick shipping. Sell the anti flicker modules and re-wire the lights. A far better solution.

Originally Posted by WxNerd2015

Hi Kevin,

I was wondering about the ATC addition, I currently have manual controls in my 2011 Sport S and would love to add this. Ive been trying to figure this out for a while and finally came across your terrific write up! Do you believe that this would work on a 2011? I know yours is a '13, and some changes were made between yours and my '11. Should this still work?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by WxNerd2015

Hi Kevin!

One last question for now, sorry but like I had said, I have been watching this build for a bit and just recently joined...so a few questions of things I want to do myself. For your post, you said it was basically plug and play. Was it simply just unplugging the old cluster and plugging in the new cluster (minus the mileage)? Or was there any cutting/splicing/adding of sensors/wires/etc.? Also, I have a 2011 Sport S, would I be able to upgrade to a newer model EVIC such as the 2014 JKRX or the 2013 JKR10th EVIC? I know the 2011's still have the 3.8L but the 2012+ swapped to the 3.6L Pentastar. Does it matter what engine you have? Or sense the brains of the unit are contained within the cluster itself, does the engine not matter, it will just work as long as it fits?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by KevinMac

The cluster was totally plug and play, no splicing required, except the update to the mileage that you mentioned. Now, will a cluster from a 2012+ work on a pre-12? I apologize as I keep stricking out here, I honestly don't know. I sold my old one or I'd lend it to you to try before you put the money out. Have any friends with a newer JK? A 12 pack might help convince them to let you try theirs out!