My thoughts on lifts
03-05-2016, 12:24 PM
#611
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Location: Torrance, California
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AEV kit (lift, shocks, etc) was about $1300 total when you include drop brackets and procal. Wheels and tires were about $2300 (for all 5), but I was able to get $600 for my stock wheels/tires that had 7k miles on them. So a total net of about $3000. I could have probably shaved about $400-500 off if I had done with cheaper wheels/tires, I did have someone do the install for me for about $700 (as I recall) Got new Yukon gears and basic rebuild kits for about $575 from a forum vendor. I had some other work done on my axle, but labor for for the gears was probably about $600ish.
So you say that the ride quality is pretty good? would you say it as good as the stock or better? is this a 2.5" lift? how was the performance before you re-geared it?
03-05-2016, 12:57 PM
#612
JK Enthusiast
I have the 6spd manual. New the jeep had 4.10s. I drove it for 3 months after the lift/tires. It was livable, but 6th gear was bordering on the useless side anytime you got to a hill and you needed to use a little more gas/clutch to start out. Probably didn't need to be done, but I found it annoying, so I decide to bite the bullet. Put in 4.56s.. Occasionally I wish I would have gone 4.88, until I take a road trip and am doing 80-85 on the highway.
03-05-2016, 01:02 PM
#613
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The kit is the AEV 2.5 dualsport. Handles much better than stock in my opinion. Really smooth ride and handles/corners well on road. Very capable off road. A good all around kit IMO. As a proof point, my wife even likes driving it. LOL I have the 6spd manual. New the jeep had 4.10s. I drove it for 3 months after the lift/tires. It was livable, but 6th gear was bordering on the useless side anytime you got to a hill and you needed to use a little more gas/clutch to start out. Probably didn't need to be done, but I found it annoying, so I decide to bite the bullet. Put in 4.56s.. Occasionally I wish I would have gone 4.88, until I take a road trip and am doing 80-85 on the highway.
03-05-2016, 02:11 PM
#614
JK Enthusiast
I think a lot of it is perspective and if you have a manual or auto. Part of the issue for me was a point of reference. My last jeep was a lifted YJ with a 4.0, manual, with 33s and 4.10s. I had that for one for 12 years. Also depends on where you live and the terrain. I am in AZ so I head up into the mountains fairly regularly.
While not exactly comparable, I had another YJ, a sport with the 4.0, with an auto, for 8 yrs before that which was lifted running stock gears and it worked great for me. At the time I lived in southern cal and spent a lot more time at the beach. Take away, no goods or bad, All depends on how you are going to use it.
03-06-2016, 05:23 AM
#615
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AEV kit (lift, shocks, etc) was about $1300 total when you include drop brackets and procal. Wheels and tires were about $2300 (for all 5), but I was able to get $600 for my stock wheels/tires that had 7k miles on them. So a total net of about $3000. I could have probably shaved about $400-500 off if I had done with cheaper wheels/tires, I did have someone do the install for me for about $700 (as I recall) Got new Yukon gears and basic rebuild kits for about $575 from a forum vendor. I had some other work done on my axle, but labor for for the gears was probably about $600ish.
Great photo of your rig I was wondering how things look with this lift and tire size. I went with 285 70 17 MT ATZ, and in hind sight wish I went with 315 70 17. Like the wider sticky - e - out look from the fenders.
Can't complain 100,000km on these 5 tires and counting.
Planning the next build and fighting the 2.5/3.5" lift in my head.....leaning 2.5" AEV again
Cheers
03-08-2016, 10:56 AM
#616
JK Enthusiast
I have a question about shock travel on my lift.
Here is what I did. I measured the stock height of my 2015 JKUR then installed my bumpers and wenches and took another measurement. It was 1 inch down in the front and 1.25 inches down in back. I then had 1.75 inch spaces installed on the front and rear springs. I did not change the bump stops. So I got a .75 inch and .5 inch lift respectively from stock height.
I’m not worried about the front shocks fully compressing since it and the bump stop are still relative to each other.
Here is my question. Is there enough length in the front Rubicon shock that it should not fully extend and bottom out when off roading with the sway bar disconnected? Lets assume I manage to get one front wheel up into the wheel well and nothing under the other wheel for full extension. And I would be running 35’s 5” backspacing with short fender flares for clearance.
Or will it fully extend? And should I get front shock spacer lifts to counter that? I don’t want to change the factory shock I like the ride.
Thanks
Here is what I did. I measured the stock height of my 2015 JKUR then installed my bumpers and wenches and took another measurement. It was 1 inch down in the front and 1.25 inches down in back. I then had 1.75 inch spaces installed on the front and rear springs. I did not change the bump stops. So I got a .75 inch and .5 inch lift respectively from stock height.
I’m not worried about the front shocks fully compressing since it and the bump stop are still relative to each other.
Here is my question. Is there enough length in the front Rubicon shock that it should not fully extend and bottom out when off roading with the sway bar disconnected? Lets assume I manage to get one front wheel up into the wheel well and nothing under the other wheel for full extension. And I would be running 35’s 5” backspacing with short fender flares for clearance.
Or will it fully extend? And should I get front shock spacer lifts to counter that? I don’t want to change the factory shock I like the ride.
Thanks
Last edited by realjeep; 03-08-2016 at 11:09 AM.
03-08-2016, 11:14 AM
#617
JK Jedi
Thread Starter
What you have now should be fine. You will fully extend the shocks when disconnected just like a stock jeep would. When disconnected the shocks become the limiting factor in terms of droop.
03-08-2016, 11:50 AM
#618
JK Enthusiast
So if they fully extend even if stock configuration that's OK? Their meant to do that? I had been told by Jeep shops that using the shock for limiting was bad? Hence my original concern.
03-08-2016, 12:09 PM
#619
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Personally for what you describe you are going to be doing with the jeep and are concerned with drivability I think I would look into a smaller tire as the on road performance is going to degrade pretty bad (you don't mention gear ratio but I see most coming off the lot with 3.21 gears) Off road with that gearing is going to cause you to put more stress on the drivetrain and you will have to speed up to get over many obstacles which makes it easier to break stuff. That being said if you are running flat fenders 2" of lift should be enough lift and allow you to run a longer travel shock if you wish. I am also not sure you really need to armor up so much under the jeep if you are not in the rocks. This will just add weight and further bog down the jeep on road and off. Lighter vehicles tend to do better off road.
03-08-2016, 12:11 PM
#620
JK Jedi
Thread Starter
Not really, but most people use the shocks as the limiting factor. Adding new shocks or extensions will not keep the shocks from becoming fully extended as there is nothing to physically stop them. If you are wanting to protect the shocks from over extending you would install limiting straps or keep the sway bars connected with links sized so you don't fully extend the shocks.
