GR8WHITE 2.0 (But Actually Silver) (40’s, 8 lugs, stretched)
05-17-2016, 07:06 AM
#15
JK Jedi
Driving that set up 75 mph down the highway is going to be a stretch unless you only drive on flat highways. With your list of components I think you $20k budget is going to be blown as well.
You will want to add at least hydraulic assist steering if you plan on taking it off road and plan to be able to turn the wheel. 14" travel shocks/ori are going to much easier to fit with less frame relocation. If you really plan to run 16" and the double triangulated set up just cut the entire rear end off and tube it and do a full rear stretch. I don't see the point of doing a 3"-5" stretch on the rear. Move that rear axle back so you don't catch anything on ledge drop off's.
You will want to add at least hydraulic assist steering if you plan on taking it off road and plan to be able to turn the wheel. 14" travel shocks/ori are going to much easier to fit with less frame relocation. If you really plan to run 16" and the double triangulated set up just cut the entire rear end off and tube it and do a full rear stretch. I don't see the point of doing a 3"-5" stretch on the rear. Move that rear axle back so you don't catch anything on ledge drop off's.
Last edited by TheDirtman; 05-17-2016 at 07:18 AM.
05-17-2016, 10:05 AM
#17
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Driving that set up 75 mph down the highway is going to be a stretch unless you only drive on flat highways. With your list of components I think you $20k budget is going to be blown as well. You will want to add at least hydraulic assist steering if you plan on taking it off road and plan to be able to turn the wheel. 14" travel shocks/ori are going to much easier to fit with less frame relocation. If you really plan to run 16" and the double triangulated set up just cut the entire rear end off and tube it and do a full rear stretch. I don't see the point of doing a 3"-5" stretch on the rear. Move that rear axle back so you don't catch anything on ledge drop off's.
05-17-2016, 10:16 AM
#18
JK Jedi
I kept some of the main frame rails. All the frame crossmembers are gone and replaced in more strategic locations. Even with 14" travel shocks you are going to have to cut out the rear main frame for shock clearance due to the large amount of axle rotation you are going to get and the big 40's.
Look up "Ringer" his build is close to what you are looking at doing although he has not done tons yet. He did a coiler triangulated 4 link with a custom fuel cell mounted like a TJ. He is in the 102-105" wheelbase range.
Look up "Ringer" his build is close to what you are looking at doing although he has not done tons yet. He did a coiler triangulated 4 link with a custom fuel cell mounted like a TJ. He is in the 102-105" wheelbase range.
05-17-2016, 12:04 PM
#19
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I kept some of the main frame rails. All the frame crossmembers are gone and replaced in more strategic locations. Even with 14" travel shocks you are going to have to cut out the rear main frame for shock clearance due to the large amount of axle rotation you are going to get and the big 40's. Look up "Ringer" his build is close to what you are looking at doing although he has not done tons yet. He did a coiler triangulated 4 link with a custom fuel cell mounted like a TJ. He is in the 102-105" wheelbase range.
05-18-2016, 01:51 AM
#20
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Over the last couple days i have order a lot of parts. Beadlocks, Ori's, atlas 4 speed, all heims for control arms and steering. Here's the money log I am keeping so I can see how much I've spent on the jeep. (All stuff on that list is ordered) Dirtman is right... I'm definitely going over budget. (Disclaimer*** The rubi rails are on the jeep now and when i do the axle swap, I'm going to make boat sides.) 
Last edited by GreatWhite JK; 05-18-2016 at 01:55 AM.
