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bedlining my grill...

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Old 07-29-2016, 05:14 PM
  #11  
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I sanded the sh*t out of it until it was dull all over. Then I smoothed it out. But went straight to the bedliner. Did probably 7-8 coats. It seems Rustoleum only works during the first half a can or so. Plasti-Dip was WAY better. Shoulda just let it be.
Old 07-29-2016, 07:16 PM
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Try using adhesion promoter. I used it on the chrome bumper to color match it to my truck and I know many who've used it to color match/ bedline chrome on their truck. I've been using that Bedliner about 8 years now and I've never had a problem.
Old 07-30-2016, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Cutman
It seems Rustoleum only works during the first half a can or so.
I think the straw inside the can falls out of the nozzle because if you invert it then it sprays again. That's why I have taken to storing the cans upside down. What I speculate is happening is the texture/liner is adhering to the bottom of the straw during storage and when you shake it you pull the straw out. I had 4 or 5 cans in a row that did that and I contacted Rustoleum to see if that was possible. They didn't answer but asked for a photo of the lot information and then sent me a case of 6 cans.
Old 08-01-2016, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck-The-Ripper
Try using adhesion promoter. I used it on the chrome bumper to color match it to my truck and I know many who've used it to color match/ bedline chrome on their truck. I've been using that Bedliner about 8 years now and I've never had a problem.
That will work but adhesion promoter PLUS primer is even better!



IMHO just primer will be better than just adhesion promoter. There's a reason why pros paint cars beginning with 2K primer on bare metal. I would use adhesion promoter if I was going to paint something that was going to get a lot of abrasion or impact, like a mountain bike frame or car wheels or suspension parts etc. ... things that you'd be better off powder coating.
Old 08-01-2016, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mr72
That will work but adhesion promoter PLUS primer is even better! IMHO just primer will be better than just adhesion promoter. There's a reason why pros paint cars beginning with 2K primer on bare metal. I would use adhesion promoter if I was going to paint something that was going to get a lot of abrasion or impact, like a mountain bike frame or car wheels or suspension parts etc. ... things that you'd be better off powder coating.
Adhesion promoter is specifically for plastic, vinyl, and fiberglass. IE: a grill. What you said is actually the opposite of reality.
Old 08-01-2016, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck-The-Ripper
Adhesion promoter is specifically for plastic, vinyl, and fiberglass. IE: a grill. What you said is actually the opposite of reality.

I assume you are aware that there are many types of adhesion promoter, right? Even the rattle-can Duplicolor stuff specifically calls out chrome and "other metal surfaces" in their literature. Summit Racing's house brand AP also emphasizes use on "hard-to-paint bare metal or chrome".

What I said is actually exactly reality. I imagine there are adhesion promoters that are made specifically for plastics, but not all, or even the most common used on painting cars, which tend to be mostly sheet metal.

As far as this specific grille is concerned, it would only be "plastic" if you were to sand ALL of the plating and whatever paint might be there off. But with chrome plating, you are actually applying paint to the chrome surface, and not the plastic substrate. If it was a painted JK grille, then you'd be painting on top of a catalyzed urethane enamel two-stage paint, so no adhesion promoter or primer is required, although a high-solids primer is usually a good idea if you have scratches or low spots to fill but then one assumes you're going to block sand and guide coat.

When we're talking about the rattle-can paint job as on this thread, then the Duplicolor AP is probably applicable, and if I had trouble getting my primer to adhere to the chrome, I'd consider it.



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