VA_Rubi-Red

Don't know how it happened since all lug nuts went on smoothly when I installed my new Cragar (Unique) steel wheels, but I stripped the crap out of one of the lug nuts and, worse, the stud, when I pulled the wheel off today.

Anybody know how to replace a stud on a JK with disc brakes? I did a cursory Google search and found some not-very-detailed write-ups on replacing studs on TJs with drum brakes (remove wheel and drum, tap out stud with hammer and center punch, then insert a new stud and "draw it into" the axle flange with a greased nut and some washers--By the way, I would love to see some pics of this as I do not fully grasp the technique). But I don't know if this method would work with disc brakes.

Any suggestions?

hyatt147

were u searching for rear? Try and search for Disc brakes in general there has to be something out there

hyatt147

came across this....http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixit..._stud_repl.htm

Its generic, hope it helps

VA_Rubi-Red

Thank you very much for that link. I think it's enough to get me through the job, although I've never disassembled a disc brake; hopefully it'll go back on the way it came off!

Any other hints out there?

adaycj

Whatever you do to your rig is your deal. Here is what I would do ...

Jack up offending Jeep at offending wheel.
Use jack stand.
Remove lug nuts. You may have to loosen them before jacking, depending on tools.
Remove two small bolts holding on caliper.
Remove caliper carefully by lifting off.
Remove pads.
Remove two big bolts holding on caliper bracket.
Remove caliper bracket.
Remove rotor. Use a rubber mallet lightly as needed.
Inspect situation. The stud gets pounded though. Line up offending stud with a place that has room.
Pound stud through with a metal hammer. Only hit the stud, wear safety glasses.
Insert new stud from back in empty hole.
Place washer over stud, place grease on washer only.
Tighten spare lug nut (purchased with new stud) until the stud is fully seated.
Remove spare lug and washer, discard. They will be damaged some.
Reassemble in opposite order.
If the caliper bracket bolts and caliper bolts have signs of thread locker installed from the factory you need to use it too.
And my last comment:
YOU NEED TO TORQUE EVERY NUT AND BOLT IN THIS PROCEDURE WITH A TORQUE WRNECH. USE THE PROPER SPECS. DON'T START THE JOB UNTIL YOU HAVE A TORQUE WRENCH AND THE SPECS.
Sorry for yelling.

jkkat

X2 on what Adaycj said, been there done that on an other vehicle.

TINMAN080

Most stripped lug nuts and threads are not caused by correct assembly, they are caused by incorrect assembly. Virtually every lug stud and nut I've had strip out has been when disassembling a lug nut that has been OVERTIGHTENED. This distorts the threads and causes the lug nut and stud to ''seize'' resulting in damaged or destroyed threads upon disassembly. The lug nut torque for the jeep is what 110 ft pounds of torque? Many name brand air impact wrenches put out 450-650 ft pounds of torque!!!ALWAYS insist on hand torqueing at your tire shop, or garage. Not only will you avoid the hassle of stripped fasteners, you will avoid the nightmare of a flat tire in the middle of nowhere and being UNABLE to break loose the lugnuts on your rig.....

rubi-u

Amen bother...i did this to 3 on each side before I realized what I was doing. I could pop 'em out and back in in under 10 minutes. I thought the torque on lug nuts was 50 ft/lbs...i can't remember but it should be in the owners manual.

You also need to make sure you have the right type of lug nuts... aluminium and Steel rims use different kinds.

Mark Doiron

One on my JK stripped out after getting new wheels, tires and lug nuts. I was reinstalling the old lug nuts because the garage sold me a four wheel set and they were a different size and used a different lock than my spare. On top of that, because they were larger, the tools I had to remove the tires would not work because I needed new, thin wall tools especially designed for removing lug-nuts (like a cross bar that I had isn't designed for that purpose!). So, I said to heck with Gorilla Nuts and reinstalled the stock lugs and Mopar locking nuts. One of the Gorilla Nuts would not remove. I was the person who'd installed it, and I knew I'd torqued it properly. And it went on easy as pie. And I was really afraid I'd break the stud trying to remove it. I even went to a wheel shop but they refused to work on it: They didn't want to be blamed for damaging the wheel. Anyway, I returned home and sprayed it with WD-40 and really applied the muscle and a long breaker bar. The lug nut finally came off. And there were less than two threads that were stripped on the stud, but the Gorilla Nut was shredded. So, I used a rethreading tool to restore the stud threads and have a good six or seven turns of the stock lug nut engaging. Decided that was safe. Bottom line: Gorilla Nuts are soft and easily damaged. I won't ever buy them again.

VA_Rubi-Red

Well, here is the interesting thing to me: I installed the (Gorilla) lug nuts myself, all of which went on seemingly okay, and I torqued them to 95 ft/lbs. Upon trying to remove the wheel, one of the nuts/studs failed.