Dynatrac Pro Rock 44
01-12-2011, 08:34 AM
#31
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I have the same problem with wanting to get rid of my front D30 because of my 37's I have on my 4 door but I was reading the March 2011 edition of 4 Wheel Drive and Sport Utility and the ATX JK is running front and rear Pro Rock 44's with 40" nitto mud grapplers and they say that those axles withstood the entire JK experience and some other trips. So for the daily driver with occasional bashing on the weekends with the finite budget I'd say Pro Rock 44's should suffice, then again I cant say I'm speaking from experience.
01-12-2011, 08:37 AM
#32
Dynatrac Pro Rock 44 Housing= $2040.99 (4WD Hardware)
ARB Locker= $849.99 (Northridge 4x4)
Front and rear Ring and Pinion set with overhaul kit= $549.95 (Northridge 4x4)
Superior Evolution Series Driver's Side Axle Set= $409.99 (Quadratec)
Superior Evolution Series Pass Side Axle Set= $424.99 (Quadratec)
Re-use D30 Steering Knuckles, Breaks, Wheel Bearing= $FREE
ARB Locker= $849.99 (Northridge 4x4)
Front and rear Ring and Pinion set with overhaul kit= $549.95 (Northridge 4x4)
Superior Evolution Series Driver's Side Axle Set= $409.99 (Quadratec)
Superior Evolution Series Pass Side Axle Set= $424.99 (Quadratec)
Re-use D30 Steering Knuckles, Breaks, Wheel Bearing= $FREE
David
02-17-2011, 09:59 AM
#35
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Have you read through the specs? These things are pretty beefy.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...-Forum-Members!
If you try, you can break anything. But for most people on 37's, this axle will hold up just fine.
• Over 2 ˝ times as strong as a factory Jeep housing!! Over twice as strong as most sleeved and welded housings.
• Suspension Brackets are 50% thicker and much stronger than stock
• Equipped with Dynatrac’s own heavy-duty end forgings (aka C’s) - Some areas are over 180% thicker than stock- No gussets needed
• Brackets and mounts designed and located for lifted Jeeps (Unlimited housing)
• 1/2” wall axle tubes
• Suspension Brackets are 50% thicker and much stronger than stock
• Equipped with Dynatrac’s own heavy-duty end forgings (aka C’s) - Some areas are over 180% thicker than stock- No gussets needed
• Brackets and mounts designed and located for lifted Jeeps (Unlimited housing)
• 1/2” wall axle tubes
If you try, you can break anything. But for most people on 37's, this axle will hold up just fine.
02-19-2011, 03:00 PM
#36
JK Freak
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Have you read through the specs? These things are pretty beefy.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...-Forum-Members!
If you try, you can break anything. But for most people on 37's, this axle will hold up just fine.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...-Forum-Members!
If you try, you can break anything. But for most people on 37's, this axle will hold up just fine.
02-20-2011, 09:31 AM
#37
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Been said a million times on this forum and others. Don't piss away money on the D 30 if you can swing a PR 44. Buy it ready to go from a number of vendors on here WITH the Prosteers and bolt it on in 4 hours. You can run up to 40's on it if you are careful with the skinny. Look around on the net and you will find TONS of rigs with 40's and a PR 44. I run 37's worry free now AFTER grenading my D 30 more than once running 35's. Want a real axle and don't need a 60? GET THE PROROCK
02-21-2011, 08:50 AM
#38
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While playing in the snow i hit a concrete barrier on my property w my d30 axle it is totally shattered i have it off already and am sold on the pro rock 44 so why should i go ahead and do the prosteer joints?
My jeep is a sahara so im looking forward to getting front lockers
.
The rear axle is still stock except for the 5.13 gears and i dont want to spend the money on the rear till i have to .
Currently run 35s but woould like to go 37s
Daily driver in the summer 23k mi 2008
My jeep is a sahara so im looking forward to getting front lockers
.The rear axle is still stock except for the 5.13 gears and i dont want to spend the money on the rear till i have to .
Currently run 35s but woould like to go 37s
Daily driver in the summer 23k mi 2008
Last edited by KC Rescue; 02-21-2011 at 09:07 AM.
02-21-2011, 09:06 AM
#39
Sponsoring Manufacturer
The JK housings have the ball joints pressed into the end forging (the 'C') on the housing, not into the knuckles like earlier 44's. You can buy the PR44 with stock ball joints or our rebuildable Dynatrac ball joints.
We're seeing stock ball joints that have failed after less than 7K miles. The Dynatrac ball joints will your front end tighter and are rebuildable. They're only been on the market about 10 months so it's very early but we haven't heard any complaints yet. We've sold our Dodge and Ford truck ball joints now for nearly 2 years and no rebuilds have been required.
Our truck testers included Ford truck guys with 40's and pumped up PowerStroke diesels. This group would go to Glamis and jump their trucks. They could take out a set of ball joints in a weekend. 2 years later these jumping trucks still have tight ball joints.
We're seeing stock ball joints that have failed after less than 7K miles. The Dynatrac ball joints will your front end tighter and are rebuildable. They're only been on the market about 10 months so it's very early but we haven't heard any complaints yet. We've sold our Dodge and Ford truck ball joints now for nearly 2 years and no rebuilds have been required.
Our truck testers included Ford truck guys with 40's and pumped up PowerStroke diesels. This group would go to Glamis and jump their trucks. They could take out a set of ball joints in a weekend. 2 years later these jumping trucks still have tight ball joints.
02-21-2011, 09:12 AM
#40
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I too had your issue of a tiny tiny Dana 30 front axle. I looked at going with the Rock Jock 60’s but decided on the ProRock 44. I run heavy Toyo 37” tires, drive 60 miles a day, and wheel hard on the weekends. I give the ProRock two thumbs up. I went through Dave at Northridge and got a great price and it showed up to my work with no problems. Also, I have the ProSteers and they are way better than the stock ball joints. 