redfiveshoe

Great idea Jadmt but there would be no way to mount it without removing the crank. I don't feel to confident about doing that.
What's the better option, rolling the dice with an easy out, or just trying to drill it out? I worry about trying to keep it straight drilling it out.
Maybe I should just live with an oil andrilling hope it doesn't get worse.

DJ1

If you use the ez-out you're still going to have to do some drilling regardless.....

Basically:
1. Try drill + ez-out...
2. If the above fails, then try completely drilling it out...
3. If the above fails, get and install a new crank...
4. ...or trade-in vehicle and let it be the dealer's problem.


Good luck. Let us know which route ends up working.


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cidd

Spray Pb blaster on it and get the balancer off then work on the bolt . If there is enough of it sticking out you might be able to get a pipe wrench on it?? That's a big if but if you can't start with a flat surface file if grind it do what you can to get a flat spot so you can use a center punch to get the drill started the better it's centers the Easter it will be start with a 1/8 bit and work your way up many times just drilling it will loosen it up and let you unscrew it just don't rush it take your time and try not to make it worse

redfiveshoe

You don't know how many times option 4 has crossed my mind already.

I got ano easy out set today. I'll give it a shot.

redfiveshoe

The bolt is definitely inside the crank. Is there any reason to remove the balancer other that that? I'm afraid that I won't be able to get it back on in case I have to go with option #4 above.

cidd

I don't think I would drive it without the bolt ?? It might seam tight but if decided to come off you could kill someone it needs fixed . I have removed plenty of busted off rusted bolts they tend to loosen up when you drill them out probably due to vibration/ heat/ stress release the closer you can gat to the threads the better the chance it will come out in one piece that's why it's important to get the punch centered so you can work your way up in bit size without catching the threads

cidd

think about that sucker spinning at three thousand RPM and coming off it will eather go up through your hood or bounce off the road and into someone else's car it wouldn't be the first time it's happened besides I would be willing to bet it's rusted to the balancer more then the crank

DJ1

Those balancers are pretty tough to get on there as-is. Before pulling it off, I would try and see if I could ez-out / drill it out while the balancer was still on there.

If that failed, then depending on the OP's financial situation I'd either have a dealer or 3rd party mechanic price the fix (chances are they will probably pull the crankshaft out anyway) OR get a trade-in on the vehicle as a whole while it's still running and the leak is still manageable.

Hey OP, what is the year and mileage of your wrangler?




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redfiveshoe

2008 2dr Sahara. 105,000 miles.

What kind of cost would you guess for the fix?

larry0071

I wouldn't pull the harmonic, I would try to work through it. The engine runs and can be driven, sold or traded as is. Once you pull that thing, your committed. Do your best at drilling and getting it out, but if shit is going ugly.... don't snap a case hardened easy out in there. Instead, move to the most logical and in my opinion simple fix......

......An option not yet mentioned, yet a VERY viable one is to do similar to what was suggested above and have a drill guide made at a machine shop to fit the drill size required to install a Helicoil insert back to the factory bolt size.

Step drill it close.
Finish drill with the guide sleeve you had made after you pulled that balancer and got some basic dimensions.
Tap for the Helicoil Insert.
Insert the Helicoil.
Re-install balancer and move on with life. The bolt isn't ultra critical to be perfectly centered, if your off 0.010" one way or another, your still fine. This is not a 10,000 RPM racing engine.