jknit

Because this is all stemming from one issue, so they keep ripping it apart for free, I'm trying to not spend hundreds of dollars just to have someone diagnose...when the issues came after the work was done

Mr.T

I typically use "disc brake quiet" from CRC on the back of the pads. Locktite and others make similar products. This may or may not fix the squeal. It may just be the particular pads they used, maybe contamination, there's a lot of possibilities. So many possibilities that it's probably a waste of time to try anything but changing out the pads, plus checking everything related for cleanliness and proper assembly. You may want to consider taking it to another dealer.

My Grandpa had a saying that 50% of all problems were cause by someone that previously worked on it, and I think he was underestimating.

Mark Doiron

Yes, that's what I understood from what I quoted. Which means my reply took that into account. If this were a Jeep I was working on, the very first thing I'd try is backing off how tight the e-brakes are at the star wheel. Just a turn or two should do it. Test drive and see if the squeal changed. If it did, then you've likely found the culprit. If not, then put back where it was and start troubleshooting the other things. The reason I'd start at the e-brake is because you say this started after the dealer adjusted it.

webejeepin

Mark provided some very helpful points, he knows his stuff. I too do the very same he noted when I've had break squeals.

One odd squeal I had that was different was my pass anger rear e brake cable seize. Drive the jeep for a good run, the carefully feel or use a IR temp scanner to see if one wheel ( rim) is hot to the touch vs the other. The e brake mechanism inside ( under the rotor ) just needed a little pb blaster been fine for months now.

As a quick check with e brake off you can inspect the e cable that enters the rear of the brake backing plate, it should not be super tight, give it a wiggle.

I can post pictured if you need,

Totally agree with Mark on the break engineering on our JKs....hope Jeep addresses this in the new JL it pretty bad right now.

Good luck to OP as a pain in the butt these are to track down they feel really good when you do and fix your problem. Gratifying I guess to some.

DonP

One of the first vehicles I had when I was first learning how to drive head floating calipers did not know anything about breaks so I took it to Midas for new brakes could hear the making noise brought it back I could not find anything wrong they did not tighten the caliper on one side so later that night the caliper fell off at a stop sign hit the curb and damaged the tire and wheel after that I've always done my own breaks figure I can screw up them better than anyone else can. And on Chryslers service technicians I don't trust them either have them break stuff on my Jeep and I can never find the problem with my radio turned it into a lemon law lawyer and gotta keep my Jeep worked on it one winter in the hanger and found a few places in the wiring that were chafed when the Jeep was assembled the lifetime warranty doesn't mean anything if they can't fix it. If you live in the Milwaukee or Denver area let me know I can give you a hand

RLT

Also check out if any of the dust shields are catching on the rotors

07 Rescue Green

I've had semi-metallic pads that squeeked so bad that I ended up changing them out and the noise went away. They squeeked while driving, not braking. I guess they had a higher than normal amount of metal in them. I've also had a shield get bent just enough to rub and drive you crazy. Good luck.

badeye

Just so you (and others) know how to check rear wheel bearings...
Place jack under axle just inside of tire and jack tire off of ground 2-3 inches. Place a long pry bar under tire and see if you can get any up and down movement. If so, bearing is bad. While on jack and with jeep in neutral, spin tire by hand and feel for any roughness or grinding sound. Again, bad bearing. This is also a good time to try and locate any noises coming from that area. Pull wheel off, rotate axle and look for anything rubbing that shouldn't be. Visually check thickness of pads and make sure squealer (small metal piece on end of pad) is not rubbing rotor.