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Opinions on whether to replace Dana 30 or beef it up?

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Old 04-22-2014, 02:08 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Bigd589706
Im glad I asked this questions because it seems like the majority of responses are against touching the 30. I am not on any particular budget and want to make sure that I spent my money right the first time. I have no plans to do anything crazy since I have not even taken my rig off the pavement yet. Mainly due to a bad rear differential that I finally fixed this year. My question would be what is the main difference between the dana 44 and PR44? I am not going to be crawling any huge rocks and this is my DD so I won't be going over 35"s until It is officially retired to my weekend warrior.
give it time, this thread will evolve into everyone that has a d30 telling you how they wheel the shit out of it and it hasnt broke yet...
Old 04-22-2014, 02:49 PM
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I just put a crapload of $$$$$ into my JK Sport.
I'm running 35's but chose to gusset and sleeve the D30.
I do mostly beach and medium trail. If the day comes that I break it, I'll go for a PR 44, but for now, the beefed up D 30 is fine .
Old 04-22-2014, 03:05 PM
  #23  
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Food for thought.

Shattered housing OnRoad
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/stoc...e-help-161915/

Comparison - PR vs 'fully' built d30
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-build-274896/

Bunch of comments on busted housings, including a few with internal sleeves
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...ousing-137074/

Take it for what it's worth
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...a-30-a-258157/

And another
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...3/poll-1944-a/

Last edited by nthinuf; 04-22-2014 at 03:07 PM.
Old 04-22-2014, 07:02 PM
  #24  
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Nothing wrong with sleaving and gusseting your D44.

As for the 30... locker is around 900 and so are the upgraded axle shafts. That is 1,800... for that price you can get a used 44. Anyway, plenty of threads on this subject.
Old 04-23-2014, 12:07 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Bigd589706
... I do not wheel hard ...
Originally Posted by Maertz
give it time, this thread will evolve into everyone that has a d30 telling you how they wheel the shit out of it and it hasnt broke yet...
There's some truth to what you wrote, Maertz. But, it's the exact opposite from those who have heavier axles: Most of them think everyone requires the heaviest axles they can afford, even though there are plenty of us having good experiences with D30s. OP was clear on what he does with his Jeep. Nothing wrong with those of us who are running D30s showing what our experiences have been.
Old 04-23-2014, 03:30 AM
  #26  
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Sleeving and gusseting a D30 doesn't cost a fortune.
I purposely didn't add a locker to my D30 in the event that it does fail.
Somewhere down the road, I might upgrade to a PR44, but if it ain't broke…………..
Old 04-23-2014, 04:55 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
There's some truth to what you wrote, Maertz. But, it's the exact opposite from those who have heavier axles: Most of them think everyone requires the heaviest axles they can afford, even though there are plenty of us having good experiences with D30s. OP was clear on what he does with his Jeep. Nothing wrong with those of us who are running D30s showing what our experiences have been.
I agree Mark.

While I think throwing any money beyond c-gussets is a total waste on a D30. They are fine for what most do. The reality is that most Jeepers aren't on the hard trails that often.... and what is "hard" is subjective. On a recent trip to RC I was with a couple that thought we were doing some really serious stuff. The reality is we were only on a "Blue" trail and a stock TJ would've made it just fine.

If you are rolling light 35s or smaller the you will probably be fine with the D30. If you go with heavy 35s or larger you should be preparing for an axle in the future.

The problem is when people think they are making the D30 better by sleeving and gusseting. While this seems to make since, those that wheel in the big rocks can tell you that the evidence is to the contrary. The tubes are so thin on the D30 the act of welding a gusset is actually more likely to cause a bend than prevent one. Sleeving does not help bending. In fact, it makes it worse because the tube is now stronger than the housing itself so when a bent happens it deforms the carrier and can cause RP failure.

All I'm trying to say is if you have a D30 and wheel hard with big tires it is not a matter of if, but when you bend or break your axle. There really is no point in trying to stop it... Just save your money and prepare for a more suitable axle for the way you play.

Now, I didn't mean for this to get the wordy, but the truth is that the stock Rubi D44 has the same weaknesses in the tubes and knuckles. The catch here is that because it is a D44 it might be worth throwing a little coin into. I myself am making a custom gusset and have already welded c-gussets (when it was two weeks old). I have a jig where I can hold the axle and I'm a certified welder. I will only have $80 in the gusseting. This is where I draw the line. Any future axle money will be put into the PR44 fund.

So if you have a D30... Rock it until it fails, maybe it never will, but don't throw money at it. For you Rubi owners that think your in a different boat, (self included), I'm sorry but you're not.
Old 04-23-2014, 05:02 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron

There's some truth to what you wrote, Maertz. But, it's the exact opposite from those who have heavier axles: Most of them think everyone requires the heaviest axles they can afford, even though there are plenty of us having good experiences with D30s. OP was clear on what he does with his Jeep. Nothing wrong with those of us who are running D30s showing what our experiences have been.
I never said it wouldnt be fine in his scenario... If i were to say he shouldn't run them i would not be basing that of my heavy 60s as i havent ran them yet. Id base it off the dana 30s 35s 44s and 60s i wheel with damn near everyweekend. Ive seen all break so as you said it depends on what you wheel. I was just saying plenty of people claim they wheel hard and often on 30s and there fine. I would disagree with there definition of hard and often then.
Old 04-23-2014, 05:04 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Maertz

I never said it wouldnt be fine in his scenario... If i were to say he shouldn't run them i would not be basing that of my heavy 60s as i havent ran them yet. Id base it off the dana 30s 35s 44s and 60s i wheel with damn near everyweekend. Ive seen all break so as you said it depends on what you wheel. I was just saying plenty of people claim they wheel hard and often on 30s and there fine. I would disagree with there definition of hard and often then.
I think we're in violent agreement. ;-)
Old 04-23-2014, 05:21 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
I think we're in violent agreement. ;-)
I figured we would be


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