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Rear Brakes Semi-Metallic?

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Old 09-10-2014, 02:27 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Dahmer
The rear pads are used a lot with ABS, Stability control, and down hill assist. If these functions are activated a lot some auto some manual the rear brakes take the brunt.
My wife had an 08 JKUR auto and had to have the rear brakes replaced at 13k. Traded it at 28k.
Old 09-14-2014, 03:20 PM
  #12  
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My 2012 Rubicon has 58,000 miles, so I thought I'd better check the brakes.

The front pads were almost like new. The rear pads were gone. The wear indicator on the right rear was broke off and the pad was down to metal. I never heard it squeal. Needless to say, I had to have the rear rotors turned.

I put Duralast Cmax pads on all four corners and all seems well.

Don't wait to long to check them. It's much easier if you do it early.

BTW, the emergency brakes & hubs on the rear were full of dirt from going through mud holes. Be sure to clean them out and re-adjust them while you're there.
Old 09-14-2014, 04:09 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by crosstowne
My 2012 Rubicon has 58,000 miles, so I thought I'd better check the brakes. The front pads were almost like new. The rear pads were gone. The wear indicator on the right rear was broke off and the pad was down to metal. I never heard it squeal. Needless to say, I had to have the rear rotors turned. I put Duralast Cmax pads on all four corners and all seems well. Don't wait to long to check them. It's much easier if you do it early. BTW, the emergency brakes & hubs on the rear were full of dirt from going through mud holes. Be sure to clean them out and re-adjust them while you're there.
Is it really worth getting rotors turned these days? I have just been buying new ones if they get bad enough to need turning.
Old 09-14-2014, 05:20 PM
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its worth turning the rotors only if you do it yourself or if you have free labor on the job, they come out pretty cheap nowadays.

And about the rear pads, I have changed mine at like 38000kms, they were not totally worn, but I still changed them before the wheeling season starts. I have bought mopar v-lines, which are lifetime warranty on the parts, you only have to pay the labor when you change them again. So if you do it yourself, you have free pads everytime just make sure you keep your receip close
Old 09-15-2014, 05:23 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by rob_engineer
Is it really worth getting rotors turned these days? I have just been buying new ones if they get bad enough to need turning.
OReilly's turns them for $15 ea. vs $40 to $100 ea. for new.
Old 09-15-2014, 05:43 AM
  #16  
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Only turn your rotors if there is some hot spots and rotor thickness is still thick. Other than that, toss them.
Old 09-16-2014, 06:04 PM
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Did you change e-brake drum shoes as well? My 10 disk pads were shot, and the e-brake is not holding well?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Old 09-16-2014, 06:39 PM
  #18  
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I use Wagner ceramic all around. Good braking power and feel. They are also rotor friendly. My opinion is they are the best around I have tried the gold and platinum brakes from the auto stores. The rear Wagner pads are $30 or $150 for pads and rotors on Amazon.

If you wheel your Jeep ask the shop to check the your e-brake components.
Old 09-18-2014, 09:08 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by gillieken
Did you change e-brake drum shoes as well? My 10 disk pads were shot, and the e-brake is not holding well? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I did not because they don't wear out unless you use them for braking. They look to be self adjusting type but no one backs up with the ebrake on. So they won't adjust.
Old 09-18-2014, 09:24 AM
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With our rear brakes.. the driver site locked up and ate away the pads and the rotor. The tech took the caliper off and the pads floated to the floor.. it was as thin as a leaf.. Rotor needed to be replaced.. the odd thing here is I wasn't sure if the rotor needed replacing.. but I had already purchased the pads from Carquest.. got the full ceramics.. and even got them on sale because they had been discontinued.. $24.50 for a full set (rear) like you said above.. some of these pads aren't cheap.. just timing I guess.. As for the rotor.. yet it was shot.. and what actually locked up was the Ebrake on the inside of the rotor because of build up in the rotor causing an uneven surface area.. everyone should pull their rotors once every 3 or 4 months just to clean them out (if they wheel often) The shop called in a rotor, $45.00. Total cost of installing one rotor, four pads and labor.. $79.95.. this is our local shop.. Young kid out of high school and he wants to learn..



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