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Right Rear Caliper Frozen - Again!?

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Old 09-24-2016, 03:50 PM
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Default Right Rear Caliper Frozen - Again!?

Almost 2 years ago to the day my right rear caliper started locking-up. The pads were worn flat, brake dust everywhere. I also got a C102B "right rear wheel speed sensor circuit" code that cleared and didn't come back. My shop installed new caliper and brake hose from NAPA. All seemed good.

The same thing is happening again. It sometimes just drags the wheel. A few times I jacked it and couldn't spin the right rear wheel at all while the others spin fine. I took off the caliper, cleaned and lubed the pins, pad clips, etc..., reassembled, but no improvement.

Today I tried to see if it's the caliper or hose - both only 2 years old. I could't push back the piston. To see if it's the hose, I opened the bleeder valve and was able to push the piston back a little while some fluid came out, but it was still very stiff. FWIW - I did all this with the brake fluid cap off. So I'm not sure if it's hose or caliper.

NAPA has lifetime warranty on the caliper and hose, but I have to wait till Monday to get parts.

Meanwhile... Am I missing something to check? Anybody gone through this?
Old 01-16-2017, 03:42 PM
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Subscribed, have the same one hanging on me today. Have new pads to install when I take it apart tomorrow to investigate further. Will update with findings for future readers.
Old 01-16-2017, 11:55 PM
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Along with other needed repairs, you may want to flush all of the brake fluid just in case some contaminant has worked its way into the system. If you have a manual transmission, BTW, your clutch also feeds off the same reservoir.
Old 01-17-2017, 12:12 AM
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Mark beat me to it, brake fluid replacement. Brake fluid is hydroscopic... being yours is a 2010 model, I think fluid replacement is in order.
Old 01-17-2017, 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jedg
Mark beat me to it, brake fluid replacement. Brake fluid is hydroscopic... being yours is a 2010 model, I think fluid replacement is in order.
if you are going to replace the fluid, there are synthetics that are much less hydroscopic than traditional. I had issues with brakes on an old RV and flushed the system with the synthetic.
Old 01-17-2017, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by rob_engineer
if you are going to replace the fluid, there are synthetics that are much less hydroscopic than traditional. I had issues with brakes on an old RV and flushed the system with the synthetic.
By "synthetic", do you mean silicone based DOT 5?
Old 01-17-2017, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
By "synthetic", do you mean silicone based DOT 5?
yeah, silicone is what I put in my RV. I'm not sure what is it is not compatible with our jeeps. I had issues in the RV with brake fade. This can be caused when the fluid heats up and moisture in the fluid turns to gas. Gas is compressible, so pressure supplied to the pistons drops. That was the problem in the RV. Silicone helped, but in the end the solution was to change my driving habits. I was asking too much of the braking system.
Old 01-17-2017, 05:46 AM
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The wheel speed sensors are cheep ($18-$25 a piece), and the rear sensors are extremely easy to change. My rear driver side locked up twice. Changed caliper and pads the first time, 9 months later it locked up so hard the pads were smoking. Second time replaced the caliper, rotor, pads, lines, and both speed sensors. Haven't had any trouble since. The rear sensors are exposed to the elements, unlike the fronts, and get covered in grime super easy.

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Old 01-17-2017, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by rob_engineer
yeah, silicone is what I put in my RV. I'm not sure what is it is not compatible with our jeeps. I had issues in the RV with brake fade. This can be caused when the fluid heats up and moisture in the fluid turns to gas. Gas is compressible, so pressure supplied to the pistons drops. That was the problem in the RV. Silicone helped, but in the end the solution was to change my driving habits. I was asking too much of the braking system.
DOT 5 is not compatible with any of the other brake fluids, so a complete flush is needed. The JK service manual and the owners manuals say to use DOT 3, with DOT 4 being acceptable to add. DOT 4 is a little less hydroscopic.
There is no mention of DOT 5 in the publications.
Old 01-17-2017, 07:25 AM
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I don't think dot 5 is a good idea. It is completely different, silicon based maybe. Valvoline container states "synthetic " maybe that's what was meant.


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