14Sport

The shocks are worth 50. That is what I sold mine for. Frankly you won't need the spring compressors. As long as you can jack it up high enough, they almost fall out. The fronts may need a little persuasion (I disconnected the sway bar links) and used my foot to extend the axle the last half inch. The rears pretty much fall out. YMMV.

Pretty much like this...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QxcNsFf0jQw

CO Jeeper

It's not too hard as others have said. I did the same as you (I have a Sahara and replaced with Rubi takeoff coils/shocks). I did mine in my garage and I'd never done one before and did it in about 3.5 hours.

I didn't have a coil spring compressor and I'm sure it would have been a lot easier (I think you'd end up having less to disconnect/reconnect from the axles) but it is doable.



Besides basic tools/jack stands, the other thing I might add is to be sure you have 18mm wrench or socket (tho nice to have both).

Because if I remember correctly, that was the size I was dealing with the most (and I did not have at the start ).

Maybe also a 21mm if you think you will be taking off your track bar (again, which I did not have ) if you decide to lift at the same time and get a kit with a relocation bracket.

You should be fine but let us know how it goes!

jimk403

It will ride rough and the Rubicon shocks are the worst.
Save your time and aggravation and get a real suspension system when you have the means.

fultonromero12

I went from Sahara shocks and spring(14/56) to rubicon shocks and (18/59) and I love it. Yes the ride is a little rougher. You will notice the difference as soon as you hit a speed bump but after a day you get use to it. It's not teeth rattling or anything like you have heard. It's a jeep. Plus if you don't like it you can always go back to the black Sahara shocks.

catahoula

Did mine in a parking lot and added TF puck leveling kit. No spring compressors needed. The Rubi shocks helped with ride. Another forum member has set up like mine 18/59 springs. He had talked to a manufacturer and they stated if you were to use better shocks with those springs it would make the ride much better. Just torque per spec and you will be fine. Helped very much when loaded down and got a lift as well. Very, very happy and recommend. I'm in the market for a little larger tires now.

ThatguyJZ

I'm looking into doing this swap as well. Trying to pick up some 17/59 springs on CL to replace my 14/56's currently on the Sahara. We bought it pre-owned with Rancho 7000's already installed, which should help compensate somewhat for the higher spring rate, while netting 1-1.5 inches of lift.

I was reading a few how-to's as this will be the first time for me installing springs on a solid axle vehicle. My question is, if I'm only swapping springs, is it necessary for me to disconnect the track bars in order to get enough clearance to get the springs out? What about the trans skid (automatic)?

Or, can I get away with just unbolting the endlinks, lower shock bolts, and brake like brackets?

Thanks!

catahoula

If you follow this write-up you will have no problems. Just remember to torque ALL bolts per spec and you will be golden.

Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Jeep JK Wrangler 2.5? Budget Boost Installation Write-Up

ezndo

Did the rubi swap on my daughter's JK a few weeks ago.

I disconnected the rear track bar per one vid but it is not necessary plus a PIA to line up the axle to reconnect. Also you do not have to touch the trans skid.

Racerxs1

[QUOTE=Machoo;4078728]Good day all. I've got a friend that I am going to get some brand new Rubicon Shocks and Springs from. He has a brand new Ruby that he put on a lift after only a few miles. I have a 2010 Sahara. I have checked the spring numbers and his are a higher rate. Makes sense mine is a two door and his is a JKUR. I am not in it for the lift really. If I get a benefit and get a lift out of the swap then awesome but I am really in it because I have a roof rack and I want to help with sag when loaded and when towing.

Questions are:

It is my understanding that it is a direct swap. Anything to watch out for? Any forseen problems? I called a local shop and they told me it would be a direct swap but it would cost $450.

So that leads me to question two. I don't want to spend $450.....Is this easy enough that it is something me and a couple of friends could tackle in the driveway?


I may be doing this myself..thanks for starting this thread.

zstairlessone

X2 on the torque and put all the tires back on the ground before tightening it up. Don't forget to unbolt the brake line hangers and replace them when done. I had to unbolt my front swaybar to allow each side to drop enough to pull the springs and had to unbolt the shocks too, but you are replacing those anyway (I didn't).