MrKenmore

Hi everyone! I searched quite a bit and saw a variety of responses. While driving at about 25 MPH a few nights ago, slight damp/wet conditions, the traction light came on. It felt like the engine was spinning but nothing to the wheels. I know it wasn't a loss of traction as that feels totally different. Then about 30 seconds later, the ABS and ESP BAS lights came on. I made it home with no problem (another 10 minutes). I have an Aeroforce gauge and ran to see if there were any DTC. I was baffled when nothing came up. I also did the key trick, still no codes. I poked around a little and did not see any visible damage to the wheel sensor wires. I know sometimes that is a problem. I left the negative battery cable off over night but that did not clear anything either. All three lights are still on.

Anyone have any thoughts here?

Thanks in advance!!!

2010 JKU 3.8 Automatic Transmission 3.73 gears

Rebar-7

I would re check the wheel sensors again could have one loose and it got wet..is your steering wheel
Centered ok..?

MrKenmore

I am going to check the steering wheel this morning. That sounds like the easiest remedy. Thanks!!

MrKenmore

Front end and stearing wheel are spot on. I did notice that the drivers side front wheel makes what sounds like an attempt to actuate ABS when I first start driving at a low speed. It quickly goes away but all the lights remain on. Perhaps the wheel sensor at this location? Still no DTC's are being logged which continues to confuse me.

chaszur

I had the same problem a few weeks back when we had our floods here in Phoenix. I checked a few online resources and the consensus was drive a few miles and it should clear itself. I drove, it cleared. All is well since. Hope this helps.

Mark Doiron

Not all DTCs are reported by all devices. This is especially true for ABS and SRS codes, which many devices are unable to read. You may have a bad wheel sensor that the dealer can read (or a more comprehensive, thus more expensive, code reader can read). Also, I've seen a contaminated unit bearing cause those lights to come on. In my case, after playing in a silt filled river with plenty of quicksand to travel across.

Nothing about the bad unit bearing in the video--it was discovered after during the drive home ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyDIT0-98FI

ashdon3kids

@MrKenmore I had this problem a while back. I tried to reply to most of the posts on here that looked open ended. I had similar problems you are describing. It was really causing me stress because no codes were visible. I knew something was going wrong but couldn't pin it down. Then I heard that most of the AutoZone, Advanced Auto or NAPA stores have units that will pick up ABS/Speed sensor error codes. I stopped in and they were able to pickup the bad sensor in 5 minutes that my code reader wouldn't find. It ended up being the wheel bearing going bad. You can buy the wheel bearing that has the sensor with cable in one package. I installed the sensor from the new bearing first. Then drove it a while. I still could tell the sensor was having issues and causing the ABS to pulse. I then changed the wheel bearing and the problem went away. I hope this helps. It's free for these stores to use the reader. You can also buy the wheel bearing and sensor with cable from these stores. Good Luck.

bareass

i had all those lights come up. i looked for the issue, but couldn't find anything.
about a month later, found that my front wheel bearing was shot. changed it, didn't have any issues after that.
check your wheel bearings. could be failing.

MrKenmore

That's good tip! From what I gather, the sensor can also determine that the shaft is too far away meaning the wheel bearing is shot.

My buddy has a Snap On MICROSCANŽ III SCAN TOOL EESC720. I am going to grab it tonight to see if it can communicate with the ABS system.

bareass

just jack the front up, and you have any play in the bearing while pushing on the top or bottom edge of the tire.