Wheel Stuck on Hub
10-11-2012, 04:40 PM
#21
JK Enthusiast
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I used to have this problem with the wifes honda civic. Usually a swift kick at the bottom inwards would pop it loose. If not a couple swift hits from a small sledge or heavy brass hammer and a piece of 2x2 against the inside of the wheel. Anti-sieze did work to keep it from getting real stuck though. If you don't like that you could always buy a piece of plastic shim stock about .030 thick and cut it to fit in between the wheel and rotor.
03-28-2015, 12:27 PM
#22
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This worked for me
I tried driving around with the lug nuts loose but no good so I put a 2x4 between the tire and shock mount and that popped them loose. Used scotch brite and put a little grease on the hub before I reinstalled the wheels so hopefully that helps in the future.
03-28-2015, 03:13 PM
#23
Answers in your text in caps.
Let's talk prevention....
Any ideas how to reduce the apparent galvanic corrosion? PAINT
I am now wondering if the assembly washers on the rotors were put on to minimize the contact area. I wondered why they put 5 on each rotor when one would be enough to simply hold it in place. (I don't really know if those washers did reduce surface contact, I'm just guessing) NO, THE BACKS OF FACTORY ALLOW WHEELS ARE RECESSED TO ACCOMMODATE THE WASHERS.
I am assuming those who had the sticking problem had removed those washers like I had.... Did you??? NOT THE ISSUE.
Thoughts? Wipe the surface with, say, WD-40 next rotation?? IT'LL JUST BURN OFF UNDER BRAKE HEAT. SPREADING A LITTLE ANTI-SEIZE ON THE FACE MIGHT STAY FOR 5,000 MILES, UNTIL THE NEXT ROTATION.
Any ideas how to reduce the apparent galvanic corrosion? PAINT
I am now wondering if the assembly washers on the rotors were put on to minimize the contact area. I wondered why they put 5 on each rotor when one would be enough to simply hold it in place. (I don't really know if those washers did reduce surface contact, I'm just guessing) NO, THE BACKS OF FACTORY ALLOW WHEELS ARE RECESSED TO ACCOMMODATE THE WASHERS.
I am assuming those who had the sticking problem had removed those washers like I had.... Did you??? NOT THE ISSUE.
Thoughts? Wipe the surface with, say, WD-40 next rotation?? IT'LL JUST BURN OFF UNDER BRAKE HEAT. SPREADING A LITTLE ANTI-SEIZE ON THE FACE MIGHT STAY FOR 5,000 MILES, UNTIL THE NEXT ROTATION.
Last edited by kmrtnsn; 03-28-2015 at 03:15 PM.
03-30-2015, 07:20 AM
#24
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Frederick, MD
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As others have stated - this is due to dissimilar metals and the corrosion or reaction which happens. Further, this usually happens on stock wheels due to being a "hub centric" design. The wheel centers up on the actual hub. Aftermarket wheels are mostly "lug centric" designs where the wheel centers up on the wheel stud when the lug nuts are tightened.
Frequent rotation coupled with cleaning and application of anti-seize (as others have noted) will likely prevent this from happening in the future.
Frequent rotation coupled with cleaning and application of anti-seize (as others have noted) will likely prevent this from happening in the future.
03-30-2015, 04:15 PM
#26
JK Newbie
Exactly the same thing happened to me yesterday when I was attempting to install my wheel spacers. I jacked up the rear of my JKU, removed all the bolts and the wheel wouldn't budge no matter how hard I wrestled with it. I conclude it was the tight fit of the aluminum wheel over the steel hub which rusted together, from what I've been told aluminum tends to react like that when in contact with steel. I'll let the shop deal with it and I'll make sure to remove my wheels more than twice a year from now on to make sure this doesn't happen again.
