Wireless Control Module vs. Trans Range Switch (JK at dealership right now)
05-20-2015, 03:14 PM
#1
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Wireless Control Module vs. Trans Range Switch (JK at dealership right now)
I have my jeep at the dealership right now (as the post title states) for the 2008 no start issue. I have included a video on You Tube of this happening. NOTE - the video does not show me tapping the shifter for it to start.
https://youtu.be/hILveK1tMB0
Here is the breakdown. Sometimes my jeep will not start. I can turn the key multiple times in a row and it does not start. Then if I touch the gear shifter even slightly or tap the top of it, it then immediately starts. I have read these posts now for years and I do understand that running a thicker gauge wire might help solve this issue but logic tells me that if I have to touch the gear shifter then it is most likely the Transmission Range Switch.
At the dealer right now, they are telling me that it is the Wireless Control Module. They have arrived at this conclusion because it is currently throwing that active code. Of course this would not be covered under my lifetime powertrain warranty and would be a $410 repair. They also said that this still might not fix the issue.
So I guess my question is, what's the deal with the Transmission Range Switch? Why don't they want to fix this under warranty? Is it a very labor intensive job? Where is it located? It seems illogical to me that this would not solve my issue. The wireless control module has nothing to do with the gear shifter. Why would this code be active also?
And on a side note, they want $150 as a diagnosis fee for pulling that code. At $150 that would mean that it took them almost two hours to figure that out? Something with all of this is not making sense.
On a second side note, they could be kinda pissed off at me since I have having them do the following repairs also.....
1. Gas Tank to fix the fuel spilling out when pumping Gas (covered under a recall)
2. Exhaust Manifold rattling (covered under lifetime powertrain)
3. Front Drive Shaft has verticle play and will be replaced (covered under lifetime powertrain)
I mean I know I am getting alot for free here and I am happy that they are doing it but it seems they are trying to take me for something on this one. Plus Im gonna have to bring it back to them next week because they have to order the gas tank.
Someone help me out here. Thanks so much in advance.
https://youtu.be/hILveK1tMB0
Here is the breakdown. Sometimes my jeep will not start. I can turn the key multiple times in a row and it does not start. Then if I touch the gear shifter even slightly or tap the top of it, it then immediately starts. I have read these posts now for years and I do understand that running a thicker gauge wire might help solve this issue but logic tells me that if I have to touch the gear shifter then it is most likely the Transmission Range Switch.
At the dealer right now, they are telling me that it is the Wireless Control Module. They have arrived at this conclusion because it is currently throwing that active code. Of course this would not be covered under my lifetime powertrain warranty and would be a $410 repair. They also said that this still might not fix the issue.
So I guess my question is, what's the deal with the Transmission Range Switch? Why don't they want to fix this under warranty? Is it a very labor intensive job? Where is it located? It seems illogical to me that this would not solve my issue. The wireless control module has nothing to do with the gear shifter. Why would this code be active also?
And on a side note, they want $150 as a diagnosis fee for pulling that code. At $150 that would mean that it took them almost two hours to figure that out? Something with all of this is not making sense.
On a second side note, they could be kinda pissed off at me since I have having them do the following repairs also.....
1. Gas Tank to fix the fuel spilling out when pumping Gas (covered under a recall)
2. Exhaust Manifold rattling (covered under lifetime powertrain)
3. Front Drive Shaft has verticle play and will be replaced (covered under lifetime powertrain)
I mean I know I am getting alot for free here and I am happy that they are doing it but it seems they are trying to take me for something on this one. Plus Im gonna have to bring it back to them next week because they have to order the gas tank.
Someone help me out here. Thanks so much in advance.
05-20-2015, 05:02 PM
#3
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... Sometimes my jeep will not start. I can turn the key multiple times in a row and it does not start. Then if I touch the gear shifter even slightly or tap the top of it, it then immediately starts. I have read these posts now for years and I do understand that running a thicker gauge wire might help solve this issue but logic tells me that if I have to touch the gear shifter then it is most likely the Transmission Range Switch.
05-22-2015, 09:21 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
New question and bump to the top also for some more people to add onto this.
Does the Wireless Control Module have anything to do with the Key FOB unlocking and locking the doors and or my remote start system? I ask this because if my problem is actually the Wireless Control Module would I still be able to open my doors with the Key FOB? And if it is the WCM would the remote start still function.
I can unlock my doors but then when the key is in the ignition, thats when I have the problem. In addition, when I try to use the remote start, its the same thing. The horn will beep twice and then I get the same 1/4 crank and no start.
According to this TSB
http://project-jk.com/images/tsb/TSB_08-007-08-REVA.pdf
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves the replacement of the Wireless Control Module (WCM), and if
equipped, the replacement of the Electric Steering Column Lock (ELV). The WCM is also
referred to as the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM).
The customer will experience a no engine crank AND a no engine start condition. Also, the remote keyless entry (RKE) system will not operate. This condition may be due to an electrostatic discharge (ESD) from the ignition key into the Wireless Control Module (WCM), causing the WCM to electronically lockup. This condition may occur more frequently in dry and/or cold weather conditions where a sufficient electrostatic charge is more easily produced. This condition is corrected by the replacement of the WCM.
Am I reading this correctly? Would my remote start in turn not work along with unlocking my doors if this is the issue?
Does the Wireless Control Module have anything to do with the Key FOB unlocking and locking the doors and or my remote start system? I ask this because if my problem is actually the Wireless Control Module would I still be able to open my doors with the Key FOB? And if it is the WCM would the remote start still function.
I can unlock my doors but then when the key is in the ignition, thats when I have the problem. In addition, when I try to use the remote start, its the same thing. The horn will beep twice and then I get the same 1/4 crank and no start.
According to this TSB
http://project-jk.com/images/tsb/TSB_08-007-08-REVA.pdf
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves the replacement of the Wireless Control Module (WCM), and if
equipped, the replacement of the Electric Steering Column Lock (ELV). The WCM is also
referred to as the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM).
The customer will experience a no engine crank AND a no engine start condition. Also, the remote keyless entry (RKE) system will not operate. This condition may be due to an electrostatic discharge (ESD) from the ignition key into the Wireless Control Module (WCM), causing the WCM to electronically lockup. This condition may occur more frequently in dry and/or cold weather conditions where a sufficient electrostatic charge is more easily produced. This condition is corrected by the replacement of the WCM.
Am I reading this correctly? Would my remote start in turn not work along with unlocking my doors if this is the issue?
05-22-2015, 01:03 PM
#5
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This may not fall under the same category but here was my experience. My jeep (2011) had a problem when driving it would randomly come out of gear. I would be pulling into an intersection and it would just stop. I would put it in Park, shut off and then wouldn't restart. If I left it running I couldn't get it to go. Solution, bad battery. Apparently some older batteries prior to 2013 had issues with cells inside separating causing reduced low voltage and the shifter detection is on a low voltage cycle and would cause the problem. Replaced the battery, no more problem.
05-22-2015, 02:02 PM
#6
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
This may not fall under the same category but here was my experience. My jeep (2011) had a problem when driving it would randomly come out of gear. I would be pulling into an intersection and it would just stop. I would put it in Park, shut off and then wouldn't restart. If I left it running I couldn't get it to go. Solution, bad battery. Apparently some older batteries prior to 2013 had issues with cells inside separating causing reduced low voltage and the shifter detection is on a low voltage cycle and would cause the problem. Replaced the battery, no more problem.
05-22-2015, 04:39 PM
#7
Hmm, Here's my experience,while up in mountains Wheelin we pulled off trail to take a break. This is with fair amount of Snow
On trail.Jeep was shut off for about 40 min. Got back in jeep went to start it and it would crank but wouldn't start. I noticed
That the sentry light and lighting bolt light were both on. Freaked out and put a battery booster on it and it fired right up.
Continued the rest of the trail never happened again that day. Wrote it off as a freak incidence . Month or two later while up
Wheelin again with snow on trail we stopped so some rigs ahead could clear a obstacle . There were about four of us so
We shut our jeeps off.About 20 min later I go to start the jeep and it wouldn't start, same thing, it would crank but no start.
Finally after 10-15 min trying it fired up.same lights on dash, sentry light and lighting bolt. Jeep ran fine rest of the day to.
Come to find out one of the other jeeps that was with us experienced the same prob to.This has never happened driving
Around in town or back and forth to work. Another member on here made a post describing the almost the same experience .
He said Dealership told him it had to do with static elec between key and WCM. IDK.....?
On trail.Jeep was shut off for about 40 min. Got back in jeep went to start it and it would crank but wouldn't start. I noticed
That the sentry light and lighting bolt light were both on. Freaked out and put a battery booster on it and it fired right up.
Continued the rest of the trail never happened again that day. Wrote it off as a freak incidence . Month or two later while up
Wheelin again with snow on trail we stopped so some rigs ahead could clear a obstacle . There were about four of us so
We shut our jeeps off.About 20 min later I go to start the jeep and it wouldn't start, same thing, it would crank but no start.
Finally after 10-15 min trying it fired up.same lights on dash, sentry light and lighting bolt. Jeep ran fine rest of the day to.
Come to find out one of the other jeeps that was with us experienced the same prob to.This has never happened driving
Around in town or back and forth to work. Another member on here made a post describing the almost the same experience .
He said Dealership told him it had to do with static elec between key and WCM. IDK.....?
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05-27-2015, 04:11 PM
#8
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Thank you all for the replies. I am going to start by doing all of the grounds first.
If the problem persists after that I will then look into it further. I can't see how anyone can say that it's the wireless control module without it throwing a hard code. It just doesn't seem likely.
Does anyone know if it is possible for the range selector switch to throw a trouble code? Dealer says if it were the problem we would see a code. After looking at pictures of that part, I find it hard to believe that it could throw a trouble code hard or soft.
If the problem persists after that I will then look into it further. I can't see how anyone can say that it's the wireless control module without it throwing a hard code. It just doesn't seem likely.
Does anyone know if it is possible for the range selector switch to throw a trouble code? Dealer says if it were the problem we would see a code. After looking at pictures of that part, I find it hard to believe that it could throw a trouble code hard or soft.
05-27-2015, 08:40 PM
#9
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Don't know for sure, but that's my experience.