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120V switch for a 12V application?

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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 05:49 AM
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Default 120V switch for a 12V application?

I found some mini switches with a black rubber boot and I want to know if they can be used on a 12V circuit. The switches are 120V 6A and they'll be used to power my 2 lightforce 170's. Will this be OK?

Thanks
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 05:56 AM
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I'm not sure why it would not work. However are you are running a relay for the lights? (should be)
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 06:00 AM
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yes, 30 amp relay for the lights
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 11:28 AM
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Let's do the math!? 120 volt rated swx at 6amps is capable of handling 720watts power. 720watts load on a 12 volt circuit would require 60amps of "electrical flow"!!! To move that much amperage would require some very large wire gauge (8 or 6awg) and large contact points at the switch; depending on out and back wire run length from the power source. Therefore; this swx would NOT work if used in a "direct wired" circuit; as it would be too small to handle the high current. The 30A relay you are using only uses 1/2-2A max to control the swx coil. 2A max at 12 volts uses 24watts of power; and that is well within the rating of the swx (24watts/120volts = 0.2A vs 6A rating). Hope that is helpful now and in the future.
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by JINGLES
Let's do the math!? 120 volt rated swx at 6amps is capable of handling 720watts power. 720watts load on a 12 volt circuit would require 60amps of "electrical flow"!!! To move that much amperage would require some very large wire gauge (8 or 6awg) and large contact points at the switch; depending on out and back wire run length from the power source. Therefore; this swx would NOT work if used in a "direct wired" circuit; as it would be too small to handle the high current. The 30A relay you are using only uses 1/2-2A max to control the swx coil. 2A max at 12 volts uses 24watts of power; and that is well within the rating of the swx (24watts/120volts = 0.2A vs 6A rating). Hope that is helpful now and in the future.
Your math is pretty close. But your thinking is not 100% correct. I do not believe that the O.P. had intended to apply a 12 volt 60 amp load to this switch. I believe that a couple of lights will be considerably less. Therefore, the switch will work!
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by JK-Ford
Your math is pretty close. But your thinking is not 100% correct. I do not believe that the O.P. had intended to apply a 12 volt 60 amp load to this switch. I believe that a couple of lights will be considerably less. Therefore, the switch will work!
I should have been more clear on how I intended to use the switch;

30 amp relay to feed power the lights

trigger for the relay is from the ignition controlled cigarette plug which runs to the mini switch then back to the relay

I wired it all up yesterday and everything seems to be working very well

Thanks
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JK-Ford
Your math is pretty close. But your thinking is not 100% correct. I do not believe that the O.P. had intended to apply a 12 volt 60 amp load to this switch. I believe that a couple of lights will be considerably less. Therefore, the switch will work!
The math was intended to help the OP understand how to determine the DC load capacity of a swx showing only an AC rating. Note the last sentence in my previous post; "... now and in the future". I'm glad to hear the OP was successful. for everyone!
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 10:00 AM
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it will work. the 120 volt rating is just that. it can handle up to 120 volt with out burning up. don't sweat it use it, you'll be fine. the switch is just connecting the circut. you shouldn't have to change any wire sizes just wire it up.

Last edited by iggy; Apr 21, 2010 at 10:16 AM.
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 11:54 AM
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Let me clarify what those ratings are:

120V (AC, DC, doesn't matter): That is the voltage at which arcing will occur between the switch contacts. As long as you're under it, you're good. If you're over it, in time (the higher over, the shorter that time) the switch contacts will carbon up and fail. Too much over and you could get arcing onto other pieces in the switch--such as the switch lever itself. Obviously, doing this isn't very smart if you happen to be attached to the switch lever when it arcs over.

5A (of whatever it was): That is the maximum current that can be safely passed through the switch. Since you're using a relay, that is the coil current of the relay you have chosen. Anything below the rated amperage of the switch and you're good. Go over and you will overheat the switch and it will either act like a fuse (if you're lucky) or just simply overheat and catch on fire (most likely).
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Old Apr 22, 2010 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
Let me clarify what those ratings are:

120V (AC, DC, doesn't matter): That is the voltage at which arcing will occur between the switch contacts. As long as you're under it, you're good. If you're over it, in time (the higher over, the shorter that time) the switch contacts will carbon up and fail. Too much over and you could get arcing onto other pieces in the switch--such as the switch lever itself. Obviously, doing this isn't very smart if you happen to be attached to the switch lever when it arcs over.

5A (of whatever it was): That is the maximum current that can be safely passed through the switch. Since you're using a relay, that is the coil current of the relay you have chosen. Anything below the rated amperage of the switch and you're good. Go over and you will overheat the switch and it will either act like a fuse (if you're lucky) or just simply overheat and catch on fire (most likely).
Thanks for that Mark. I stand corrected, JK-Ford. for all!!
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