2010 factory sub help
 

My sub has quite working in my 2010 JK unlimited. I've checked connections and fuses and those look good. I don't thing it's getting any power at all. I pulled the head unit out and saw a female connector with a bunch of wires not plugged into anything. The only place it could plug into is if I unplugged another connector that just had a few wires. I tried it and it made no difference. Wondering if the other connector could be for the head unit with nav. I am positive one has switched the connectors but still curious what the one with more wires is for.

Any ideas on what else to check?? Again, I don't think it is getting any power at all.

Really appreciate any help!! Thanks!!

Surely someone out there know what I can check. Please help as I want to get this working again. Thanks!

You can take the sub out of the enclosure and check with a drill battery to make sure it's working. If it's not there is your problem. If it is, either the amp is bad, or wiring from the amp to the sub is bad.

You could also pull the sub out and check the ohm load on each coil. This will tell you if the sub is still good as well.

Thanks so much Bombout! I checked and there are two sets of connectors on the speaker and bot read 2.4 ohms. Is that what they are supposed to read?

Anyone else have any input? Would really like to get this fixed. Thanks.

Here are the pinouts of the headunit.

Attachment 577283
Attachment 577284
Attachment 577285

There is an AMP in between the factory headunit and the sub. Pinouts of the AMP.
Attachment 577294

From what I can see, is that if you are getting sound out of the speakers, but not the sub, then it is probably the AMP that is bad, or the wiring leading to the sub. I dont know how to check this except to plug another AMP in to see if it works.

Here is an interesting thread... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/s...-codes-428543/

Touch the leads together on the dmm. They should read .4. Meaning your sub is a dual 2 ohm voice coil. It's reading correctly.

You could put the dmm to ac volts, on I believe the 200 setting, and hook the leads up to one positive and one neg. then do it to the other. Start at low volume and work your way up in volume. Keep checking the output to the dmm and make notes at each volume level. Meaning say vol 5, then 15, then 30, or whatever you chose. Do the same with the other side. If the voltage is fluctuating, this is good. it should only fluctuate up, if so the amp is powering those channels. Both channels should be relatively close as far as the testing numbers go. If not, then the amp Is your issue. If you don't get a reading at all, you have either bad wiring from the amp to the sub, a pin that's pulled out, or the amp has decided it's time for you to fork out some money on another one.

Thanks guys! This should help get me going...or force me to spend some cash.