tl_jku09

2009 wrangler rubicon

Mark Doiron

1. Normal. Given a couple engine starts, may go off.
2. Bad wheel sensor/wiring (did you do a recent lift?).
3. Bad unit bearing (have you been playing in mud or quicksand or fording rivers?).
4. Bent drag link/tie rod (can usually adjust out)
5. Steering wheel not centered (which can be caused by 4 above, or by a lift).

Canvas

Check your wiring on each wheel for signs of damage. With the ABS light that tells me there is issues with the wiring.

R/
Will

My Jeep 7

With all 3 of those lights on you have a bad or broken wheel speed sensor. We have them fail on mercedes regulary and they are pretty much the same. A dealer could tell you which one or you can check by disconnecting them at the body mount and measure the resistance as you turn the wheel. I cant remember if it 1.5 or 4ohms, but the one that is not reading or is reading different than the other 3 is the problem

Robs toy

i recently swapped my stock track bar to a teraflex monster also on the top of my rear diff i noticed two electrical connectors the one closest to the front is broken off and just hanging not sure what it is

resharp001

those are for the rubi lockers. the one that goes in to the side of the diff is for the sensor that triggers the light in the cab when the locker is engaged. The one that is sitting on the tab of the diff is the actual actuator itself (what is engaging/disengaging the locker)

Robs toy

That would exllain why ...when i was playing around with my axle lick switches they would just alternate on and f

resharp001

Here's what's going on inside and on the other side of that plug. (not my picture). This person's hand is on the plunger. The plunger itself sits on the other side of the actuator ring....so when the locker is activated, the ring snaps towards the left, extending the plunger....which sends a signal to your dash that the locker is engaged.



and here you see the plunger sitting by the pinion gear -



In order for your front locker to engage on the Rubicons, you need to be locked in the rear. If that plunger or connection is not working in the rear....and the computer can't tell that the rear is indeed locked, it may be interfering with actually locking up the front. You might investigate that or maybe someone will chime in. I suspect the computer might think the rear is NOT engaged even though it is....cuz it's not getting the signal from that sensor. I have rubi axles and lockers, but I trigger them directly from an sPOD, so that little plunger is really superficial to me.

Robs toy

In your opinion what would it cost to fix the problem the pigtail is still hanging there i cant take a picture ...my wife decided to take my car today not fair i wanted to play in the snow

resharp001

It sounds like nothing is wrong with the plunger, just the actual connection. So you still have the side of the connection that is running from the jeep....should be part of the same loom that is running to the actuator connection. If so, that is just a simple two wire deal. I wouldn't worry about replacing the plastic connector or whatnot if they are broken. I'd just wire up your own connection...just something that you can separate if you ever need to pull the axle for some reason. If you can, snap a picture tonight and post it. You should see the other side of the connection (jeep's side from the wiring loom) hanging loose somewhere.