For the time being until i get lockers and enough switches to fill everything up in my SPOD i was thinking of just throwing the CB POS/NEG on the source system to get me started. When i get enough switches filled up and want to change my CB power then ill tap it into the cigarette lighter spot or something else.

Now would it cause any issues switching the power source of the CB, as far as having to re tune it and what not?

 

I did this. I don't trust myself to turn the CB off and prefer to have everything running through my sPod (so the LVCO kicks in if I forget to turn something off).

No issues at all, my SWR is excellent.

 

Haha yeah i feel you on the LVCO thing we have in the SPOD, which is wonderful. I think ill just go ahead and wire it in to the SPOD as the only other thing that i will do it just cut off the terminal and re route it.

 

Did the same thing. Because my cobra 29 is in a tuffy overhead console, it's a PITA to turn on and off. Now I just leave it on and use the SPOD to turn it on and off

 

The inline fuse thats in the power cable of the CB radio is a 6amp. What size amp should i use on the SPOD source system? Ive never seen a 6, it either a 5 or 7.5.

 

I'd go with 7.5 just to be safe. My cb actually didn't have an inline fuse so I just plugged it in and called it a day

 

Thats what i went with, I mean if it draws too much power, than the inline fuse should go out as well. I didn't feel like running to the store so i used the same color wire for my extension ( brown ), but marked the negative. Im happy with it as it works

 

Nice. Totally doing this.

 

Wiring direct to the sPOD will not affect the tuning of your antenna system. However, the additional wiring may be susceptible to picking up alternator or other engine noise (common problem), as well as radio frequency noise from the transmission itself (rare for a legal CB radio due to low power, and depends on where your antenna is located and cable is routed). That's why it's normally recommended to wire radios directly to the battery. Often alternator noise can be controlled with ferrite beads on the affected wires. Or just ignore the noise (it is a high pitched wine in the received audio, and perhaps in the transmit audio, that varies with engine revs).

FYI, good engineering practice usually says to not wire through an additional relay (The Source) for devices requiring power in the cab. It's not a safety issue so much as a cost/complication/reliability issue. If you consider the OEM things in your Jeep that are wired through relays (horn, headlights, etc), it is because the engineers didn't want to bring heavy wiring into the cab and install a high current rated switch in the cab (versus a low current switch), then run that same heavy wiring back outside the cab. Generally, devices in the cab (stereo, dash lights, etc) are wired directly to the power source without an external relay. I understand some folks find it easier to remember to turn off the radio if it's wired to the sPOD (and there is that battery protection circuit it has if you don't disable it). Here is, however, a more elegant answer which I have several friends who use and they like (apparently the alternator noise has been a non-issue for them) ...

Quadratec JK-APT2011 - 12 Volt Power Adapter for 99-16 Jeep® Wrangler TJ, JK , TJ Unlimited & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

As for fusing, go with the next higher size fuse, but insure that your wiring is capable of handling the current for which that fuse is rated. Current handling capacity of wire is not as simple as XX gauge handles YY current. It depends on length, the specific install situation (buried in a multi wire cable?), insulation, ambient temperature, etc. Suggest you find an online tool to analyze the exact wire you intend to use.

EDIT: This chart may prove useful ...

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wi...ges-d_419.html

Take special note of the deratings required for higher temperatures (your engine compartment temperature of the exact wire run in this case).

 

Personally I would suggest wiring the CB to the battery with only a fuse inline, no switches.

Reason being that if you break down or whatever switch you use busts, you loose coms. And if you break down somewhere, coms are the most important to relay whatever the issue might be. With the CB straight to the battery, even if your ignition craps out or the Jeep wont turn on, as long as your battery has juice you can still talk.