Dash Lights Going Crazy and Wont's Start
#11
JK Newbie
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Jacksonville, FL
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Thanks....going to have the battery load tested and see what happens!
#12
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It could be. And I know that you wrote the battery is good. But how did you determine that? What age is the battery? What type of warranty did it have? Batteries usually don't last much longer than their warranty periods. Have you tried turning on the headlights when the engine won't crank? A dome light doesn't draw much current, but the headlights (or any extra lights you've added) will put a bit more load on the battery. Do the headlights by any chance dim when the engine is idling, then brighten up when you get on the gas? Even those aren't reliable checks of the battery; it really needs a proper load test. Bottom line: How did you test that battery? If it was the dealer, really recommend that you pull it, take it to your local auto parts place, and have them test it.
When you reinstall the battery, ensure that you clean the battery clamps. There are special wire brushes for that purpose--the parts store will sell you one. Once you've put the battery clamps back on and cleaned up and inspected all of the various connections on the clamps, spray just a tad of WD-40 on the battery terminals and clamps. That will keep corrosion from starting up (you don't need those silly felt disks the parts store sells to prevent battery terminal corrosion). I respray those clamps with just a smidgen of WD-40 every time I change oil.
As for the ignition switch: While at the parts store pick up a can of CRC electrical contact cleaner. Use the straw that comes with the can and spray that into the ignition switch, stick your key in, and rotate it around. Do that quickly because the cleaner evaporates almost immediately. Do several times.
When you reinstall the battery, ensure that you clean the battery clamps. There are special wire brushes for that purpose--the parts store will sell you one. Once you've put the battery clamps back on and cleaned up and inspected all of the various connections on the clamps, spray just a tad of WD-40 on the battery terminals and clamps. That will keep corrosion from starting up (you don't need those silly felt disks the parts store sells to prevent battery terminal corrosion). I respray those clamps with just a smidgen of WD-40 every time I change oil.
As for the ignition switch: While at the parts store pick up a can of CRC electrical contact cleaner. Use the straw that comes with the can and spray that into the ignition switch, stick your key in, and rotate it around. Do that quickly because the cleaner evaporates almost immediately. Do several times.
#13
Dash Lights
Have a 2007 rubicon and all dash lights came on and when I killed it and tried to crank back up it wouldn't start. We pulled a few fuses and put them right back and it eventually cranked, any ideas?
#15
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Join Date: May 2020
Location: Sanford, michigan
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I had the same issue with my 2013 JK 2-door earlier in the year. It would start out fine for about 3 to 5 minutes and the dash would go crazy blinking as your video showed. When I turned off it would not restart for 15 to 20 minutes. Ended up towing to the dealership. They replace the PCM along with 2 wiring harnesses. Thee had it for about 3 weeks. I had originally tried tightening the battery connection and even disconnected to try and reset. Since I got the Jeep back not a single problem. Probably not what you want to hear. Thank God I was covered under warranty.
#16
Same problem
I had the same issue with my 2013 JK 2-door earlier in the year. It would start out fine for about 3 to 5 minutes and the dash would go crazy blinking as your video showed. When I turned off it would not restart for 15 to 20 minutes. Ended up towing to the dealership. They replace the PCM along with 2 wiring harnesses. Thee had it for about 3 weeks. I had originally tried tightening the battery connection and even disconnected to try and reset. Since I got the Jeep back not a single problem. Probably not what you want to hear. Thank God I was covered under warranty.
#17
JK Jedi
You guys are asking question of a user whose last activity on the site was Dec '16. Don't hold your breath for an answer.
#18
good I can breathe again lol I saw it was an old post it was shooting in the dark does anyone have a good answer for this situation was commonly it seems like the battery needs to be changed it’s been changed two times already
#19
JK Jedi
I'm sorry, I can't help with this one. I find it interesting though that the dealer is swapping the instrument cluster for this. that seems stupid. If it's not battery related, PCM seems like the 2nd most logical thing to me......but, I've found most dealers are pretty stupid.
#20
Crazy Christmas Dash Lightshow
I would agree. This just happened to me recently. ABS lights and all, i put my tuner on it and it spit out 11 codes however, the majority of my research is pointing to 3 things...Brake/Speed Sensor, Cam Shaft Position Sensor and Battery voltage. 4 of the 11 codes are from after market headlamps (high/low, left/right). My intent is to have the alternator tested then start replacing sensors. Theyre not that expensive nor labor intensive to replace.