Driving Lights Trigger
I am installing a set of Hella 500 driving lights. I want to have the trigger for the relay tapped into the high beam circuit so that they go on and off with the highs. Will there be enough voltage from the wire to the high beam bulb to continuously keep the relay engaged?
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Originally Posted by terpsmandan
(Post 4090248)
I am installing a set of Hella 500 driving lights. I want to have the trigger for the relay tapped into the high beam circuit so that they go on and off with the highs. Will there be enough voltage from the wire to the high beam bulb to continuously keep the relay engaged?
I expect that you were thinking of connecting a jumper between the high beam lamp wire and the relay that runs the new lights. If you do this you will quickly find that the new lights are either flickering, or not as bright as they should be. You will also, probably, hear the relay for the new lights buzzing. This is because the headlights on the JK are Pulse Modulated. They are not really continuously on. For the high beams the light is turned on and off 90 times a second and in the on state for only 75% of the time. Jeep does this to ensure long life of the bulbs. (yes sounds stupid to me also). Anyhow, you would need to use an Anti-Flicker adapter to keep the lights from flickering. BTW, I like the idea of using the high beams to turn the lights on, but I would wire in a switch that you could use to disable the feature for on-road use. |
I use the high beam wire to trigger a relay for a garage door transmitter (I hit flash to pass to open my garage) successfully so I know it has enough power to trigger the relay. However, as said, fooling with PWM wires are hit or miss. Some guys have good luck and some guys not so much.
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I use this relay for for that , works great ( 5 years now ) , a buddy got them at a swap meet so cant help you on where to get them .
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I guess that I am going to go with a H4-H13 adapter to run my headlight relay that I pulled out of my TJ before I sold it and if that works tap the driving lights relay off of that. If it doesn't work I am just going to get the jk harness from rally lights. Thanks for the input.
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Update. Got the adapter from truck-lite and hooked to the "headlight brightener" (Chinese translation on the relay) and voila, enough voltage to keep the relays lit.
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Originally Posted by terpsmandan
(Post 4100714)
Update. Got the adapter from truck-lite and hooked to the "headlight brightener" (Chinese translation on the relay) and voila, enough voltage to keep the relays lit.
I am using the stock right fog beam trigger wire (White/Orange) and tapping that into the switch side of the rigid harness' relay. The Rigid Industries harness gets power straight from the battery and the "trigger wire" tells it hen to come on (when I turn fogs on with the turn signal switch) |
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I think this harness would work. Just tap in the fog light wire instead of the high-beam. Lightforce harness.
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I think that it might have something to do with the voltage requirement of the relay. Before I put the relay and the H4's in, a couple of people were saying that the pwm variable voltages could cause the relay circuit to open and close. That's where the flicker comes from. I haven't checked them at night but l listened for chatter from the relay bank with the engine running and didn't hear anything. I'll post back tomorrow with the results.
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Originally Posted by terpsmandan
(Post 4100973)
I think that it might have something to do with the voltage requirement of the relay. Before I put the relay and the H4's in, a couple of people were saying that the pwm variable voltages could cause the relay circuit to open and close. That's where the flicker comes from. I haven't checked them at night but l listened for chatter from the relay bank with the engine running and didn't hear anything. I'll post back tomorrow with the results.
I was thinking if adding a Truck-Lite PWM harness/adapter to it would fix it maybe? this PWM harness/adapter is the same one I had to install when I installed my Truck-Lite LED headlights |
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