JK505

Wait... Why can't I run 40's?! And I dont need 6" of lift to fit 35s?

In a seriousness, I like to poke around the electrical section a lot more. You see some really creative stuff from time to time. I broke down and ordered an Spod yesterday and I feel like I cheated because I'm an electrician. I know I could've built one fairly easily with some spare materials, but its so much easier to sell out and buy one... Don't judge me...

14Sport

No judgement here, especially since I got an sPod as well. Chalk it up to getting a new Jeep and wanting to wire up a bunch of accessories quickly. Slap, slap, done. But now I found myself looking for electrical projects for the JK. Just wired in a Harley garage door opener last weekend...lol

JK505

Well I've also got the tuffy overhead console so the switch panel will be a one-off for me somehow. I started a thread last night if you want to toss an idea out, I'm going to stop hijacking this thread now...

Coastlife

Yes, as I said, I'm not friends with the power fairies. While waiting for my KC's to arrive I have offered up a sacrifice of some of my craft beer. They did not seem to be pleased. I shall try again with something stronger.

Coastlife

Thanks for the help and the quick reply! So If I want to install a panel of back-lit switches is there some reason I shouldn't do this above the Rear view?
I really like the look... But if it is easier to go in front of shifter I will do so.
I'm just not a fan of the A-pillars IMHO.

Coastlife

Yes I would like to have green, back-lit switches. Is this difficult to do?
Similar to This?
SPOT LIGHTS (GREEN LED) - CUSTOMROCKERS
Or is it just much easier to go with these?
Rocker Switch, Green - DAY-KU80012

JK505

If you weren't across the country, I'd offer a hand! Hope it works out.

There's no reason not to install something over the rearview, I've never seen a method sold besides the spod. Which is rather ridiculously priced IMO.


With these options, you're going to have to drill into the dash/surface of your jeep unless you get a bezel that holds the switches. Which can be the A pillar (which we ruled out) or the spot in front of the shifter.

How many accessories are you planning on installing? (Lights, CB, compressor, electric lockers, etc.)

Edit:

You should consider your future plans. If you plan on adding more lights/things that connect to your battery, you're going to want to think about an SPOD, or making something similar (supposedly a competitor is making something soon too). It avoids a rat's nest in your engine bay and makes wiring things incredibly easy. It's really nice for people that aren't electrically inclined.

If you're fairly sure you won't be adding much else, there's nothing wrong with drilling into the dash and screwing the switch in there to work the lights.

Mark Doiron

Please help me wrap my head around this. And the forum app isn't showing me the drawing, so I may just be misunderstanding what is being discussed. But, it seems to me that the current in the wire through the firewall is the same, regardless if you use the negative or positive side.

As for safety, for lights and such I agree. If there is a short on the ground side (to ground), the device just turns on. If on the positive side, one is depending on the fuse, which ***should*** blow before a fire starts, but isn't guaranteed under certain conceivable high resistance "shorts".

But not all circuits are safe to just turn on as a failure mode. A winch reel in switch, for example, could injure someone, or get the line spooled in, then the motor overheats when it can't turn. In that case, a short on the positive side of the relay coil would seem a safer design consideration.

14Sport

Correct me if I'm wrong, Mark, but the current draw is a factor of the circuit design. The limiting factor in the control circuit is the coil in the relay. If you short the ground, the current coming through will be limited by the coil. If you short the power side, there is no limit and you will most likely melt the wire itself. That is why if you short the ground side all you do is activate the relay circuit, not blow the relay. Typically the control circuits are not fused. Additionally, half the wires running through the firewall equals half the chance for a short.

But you're right as long as there is not a short in the system, the draw will be the same on both sides of the coil. At least that is my understanding.

JK505

Let's go back to alternating current now...

It took a few re-reads to get the wording right in my head, but yes, I believe you are correct