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Easy Rocker Switch Mount Above Rear View???

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Old 01-05-2015, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 14Sport
Correct me if I'm wrong, Mark, but the current draw is a factor of the circuit design. The limiting factor in the control circuit is the coil in the relay. If you short the ground, the current coming through will be limited by the coil. If you short the power side, there is no limit and you will most likely melt the wire itself. That is why if you short the ground side all you do is activate the relay circuit, not blow the relay. Typically the control circuits are not fused. Additionally, half the wires running through the firewall equals half the chance for a short.

But you're right as long as there is not a short in the system, the draw will be the same on both sides of the coil. At least that is my understanding.
No, I think we're in agreement. The two things I was commenting on were something about less power draw (which is why I cited current, since power is consumed mostly at the load and not in the wiring, one would hope), and the consideration for a failure that could cause property damage or physical harm.
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Old 01-05-2015, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
No, I think we're in agreement. The two things I was commenting on were something about less power draw (which is why I cited current, since power is consumed mostly at the load and not in the wiring, one would hope), and the consideration for a failure that could cause property damage or physical harm.
Oh, and it isn't necessarily twice the wiring through the firewall. One wire (fused) carrying 12 volts to every switch, plus one wire for each relay coil. Or, you could have two circuits, one for positive-switched circuits, the other for negative-switched. Assuming chassis ground (no wire through firewall), only the one positive wire is added. Right? I'm drawing this in my head, LOL.
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Old 01-05-2015, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
No, I think we're in agreement. The two things I was commenting on were something about less power draw (which is why I cited current, since power is consumed mostly at the load and not in the wiring, one would hope), and the consideration for a failure that could cause property damage or physical harm.
"less power draw" I believe he was referring to in the event of a short. But I do agree that some things you don't want to turn on in the event of a short. So consideration of what you are powering makes sense in which side of the control circuit you switch and whether you add a fuse or not to the control circuit.

Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
Oh, and it isn't necessarily twice the wiring through the firewall. One wire (fused) carrying 12 volts to every switch, plus one wire for each relay coil. Or, you could have two circuits, one for positive-switched circuits, the other for negative-switched. Assuming chassis ground (no wire through firewall), only the one positive wire is added. Right? I'm drawing this in my head, LOL.
Exactly. And good points. In fact, if you tap the positive side 12V source from under the dash to power the control circuits there are no additional wires necessary. But you still have the whole short thing to worry about. So I think a good way to do it, based on your observations, would be to switch the positive side of things you don't want to turn on when shorted, but feed that 12V from behind the dash (and make sure you tap a fused feed), and switch the negative side of things that aren't critical. Kind of like designing an intentional failure point into the circuit. Sounds like a win/win to me.
Last edited by 14Sport; 01-05-2015 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 01-05-2015, 02:50 PM
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Mark, you are right about some things should not be controlled via the Gnd and gave the perfect example. As said earlier I was speaking of the switches that actuate relays for lights. The current draw from relay coils at 12v is under an Amp and a 24 awg wire will handle that with ease, but if you short the positive side you will surely burn the wire along with the fuse. If the gnd side shorts the device will turn on and the most likely wont blow. Wiring and component rating is a always a balance between worst case and some acceptable risk.
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 14Sport
First time I saw one of my schematics posted in a thread by someone else.
A great diagram, Helped me a lot. Thought I would share. Appreciate you posting it!
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by WHT_JKUR
A great diagram, Helped me a lot. Thought I would share. Appreciate you posting it!
Glad you got some use out of it. My time wasn't wasted. And thanks.
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Old 01-05-2015, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
Oh, and it isn't necessarily twice the wiring through the firewall. One wire (fused) carrying 12 volts to every switch, plus one wire for each relay coil. Or, you could have two circuits, one for positive-switched circuits, the other for negative-switched. Assuming chassis ground (no wire through firewall), only the one positive wire is added. Right? I'm drawing this in my head, LOL.
Drawing it in your head! lol I love it! I do that all the time! Good to know I'm not the only one Mark
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Old 01-05-2015, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Coastlife
I just bought some KC lights and I'm looking for directions on how to wire them up to rocker switches. I'd like to wire a rocker panel above the rear view mirror but there doesn't seem to be a cheap option for that, so I may just go with the space in front of the shifter.
I'm not entirely sure how the power fairies work but I'm sure I can figure it out with some guidance or some photo directions. Is there a link on the forum for what I'm wanting to do? or can someone Explain Like I'm Five?
If you really want to mount the switches above the rearview, you can make a pod yourself if you don't mind working with fiberglass.
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Old 01-05-2015, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by darkknight1999

If you really want to mount the switches above the rearview, you can make a pod yourself if you don't mind working with fiberglass.
When are you going to start selling your work?
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Old 01-05-2015, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by espi
When are you going to start selling your work?
I do... sorta... lol

The handmade versions are available but you need to message me.

I'm in the process of having patent work completed as well as molds and production. It just takes time due to the cost... which is fairly high.
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