Your not crazy:crazyeyes: It was here now it's gone :thinking: maybe someone had a liability issue:dontknow2: dsy had posted it on page 2:thumbsup:

woh, crazy, now i see it. that was really weird... glad renegadelt1 couldn't see it either...at least i know i am not crazy

Just wanted to add my $.02 to this thread;

I just installed a set of HID headlamps and Foglights from XenonWorx in my '08 Rubi Unlimited. Their kit is the bulb-replacement type that use the factory reflectors, and the Hi-beams actually cause the bulbs to move in their socket to change the reflection angle.

They came with a harness that seemed to include a "Can-Bus fix" circuit, as the harness has its own power & ground leads, as well as a "little black box" in the middle of the harness. Sure enough, when Iplugged it all in, the ECU was happy, but the little black box buzzed when hi-beams were activated while the motor was running.

I was able to fix the buzz by simply putting a 25v 100uF Capacitor across the hi-beam & neutral leads of the OEM light connector - in Parallel with the rest of the HID harness. If I used any higher a value capacitor, the buzz still stopped, but there was a perceptible delay (>2s) between turning off the highbeam switch, and the beams actually turning off. I didn't go any lower than 100uF. There's still a 'delay', but it's in the order of 300ms.

Just thought that this might help anyone else who reads this thread. (Because I didn't have an obvious automotive relay in my HID harness, nor did I want to throw it away.)

Did you install the diode too? if not you are risking a back feed from the Cap when the voltage on the canbus drops. This "could" damage the main CPU.

Not having anything around to build a harness for the Cibies and 80/85 watt bulbs I just ordered the Susquehanna Motorsports harness specifically designed for this conversion, and it works perfectly.

Just as a quick note:

The diagram specifies a 220pF Capacitor and that is likely a misprint. It should be 220uF. 220 picoFarads are not polarized and are much to small for this application, the 220 microFarad seems more in-line with reality and they are polarized.

BTW: Nice write up !

Thanks for the write up I've got to do this I have kc daylighters doing the same thing, I connected onto the high beam wire at the light and went to the relay mounted on the firewall beside the battery.

does anyone know if the capacitor trick is needed with the factory foglights as well? . . . I need to switch my recently purchased ballasts with digital ones (which I am told by galmax will work with the canbus system) and need to know if I need to switch boith sets or just one.

Relay with diode
 

Would a micro relay with diode protection avoid the need to solder one on the cable coming from the high beams? :dontknow2:
I have 4 hellas FF75 to install on my roof rack, I'm trying to keep it as simple as possible...

In theory yes . . . if they have one rated for enough amperage. I wouldnt go less than 30 or 40 amps . . which is why the standard 5 pin Bosh Relays are so popular I think.