briandunning

I want to install a big-ass inverter under my rear seat, like 1000-watt, for big jobs like charging drones for example, and other stuff. In the JK I've no idea where/how to run the power cables and what I should connect to. Is there an existing write-up with recommendations for this?

Canvas

I would run a dedicated power wire to the battery and put a fuse on it. You can run the wire under the plastic molding at the base of the door jams and go into the engine compartment through the glove box area. Behind the batter is an access hole, at least on my 2011. Pull the black insulation behind the battery and you will see a black tape material and behind that is the access.

R/
Will

briandunning

Any thoughts on where to ground the negative?

briandunning

What about if I want it switched with the ignition, just as insurance against someone leaving it on accidentally?

Canvas

I would use where the seats mount to the body. That way you know it is grounded to the body which is grounded to the engine which is grounded to the battery.

fray

The only way to do this is via a relay.

Some inverters include an internal relay to switch them on/off, otherwise you'll have to get a relay (sized properly) to do the same thing.

For the switched power, the easiest thing to do is either tap a fuse that is switched by the ignition.

Canvas

Or run it off an sPOD.

ronjenx

I would run a dedicated wire back to the battery. A 1000 watt inverter can draw a lot of amps off the battery.
A circuit breaker on the positive lead near the battery may be a better option than a fuse.

Length of the wire run from battery to inverter plays a big role in determining wire size.

jedg

ronjenx is correct. 1000 watts will be 83 amps.

If you want it ignition switched, then use a relay (needs to be a 100amp relay) close to the battery and switch it off one of the fuse spots in the fuse box).

Just so you know... let's estimate that your power line to the inverter is 8 feet long... you will need to use at least 10 gauge wire (though I would likely use 6 gauge)

Mark Doiron

To continue on with this thought, this is why it's generally good engineering to mount a big inverter near the battery. That is, there are two issue with wire size: The current it must carry, and the voltage drop it will incur. That voltage drop is greater the higher the current draw. A shorter wire can carry the current with less voltage drop. However, if you pump up the voltage first to 120 VAC, then your wire gauge is much smaller throughout the vehicle (to the outlets). If you think about it, this is why high voltage transmission lines are, well, high voltage. And it's why some larger vehicles have 24 volt battery systems.

To be more specific, using the 10 ga wire that jedg mentions above, you'd have just over 11 volts at the end of a ten foot run of wire when drawing maximum current, and assuming that you have a good battery outputting 12.8 VDC. That's a 13% drop in voltage, which is why jedg goes on to say he'd use 6 ga (5% voltage drop). So you'll want to be comparing the input requirement for your inverter versus expected usage scenario, wire size, and wire length. By "usage scenario" I mean situations such as if you have the engine running, you can expect higher battery voltage since the alternator is online. However, if you plan to use this to power some devices while camped for the night, you can expect that 12.8 VDC to be significantly less in the morning--perhaps down into the 10 volt range. You may find this calculator helpful for doing some basic engineering for your install ...

Voltage Drop Calculator

A second spurious thought: If you're thinking you can just plug anything into this inverter, then ensure you buy one that outputs a pure sine wave. Some less expensive ones output something cruder and can damage devices--especially motors.

A drone battery is not a particularly large draw. I used a 400 watt inverter to recharge drone and camera batteries, all simultaneously, without a hitch during the Beehive B-Sides trip.