Vladimer

I've found about 0 info in this online, not even threads of people asking so if anyone can point me somewhere that would be great.

I have a 2012 and I took my rear sub out awhile back to get the most space and use out of my drawers. Sounds been rather empty so was planning to get a sub but never got around to it. Picked up a 2015 sub off a buddy as it goes into the cubby and wouldn't take up more of my trunk area.

Problem is the 2012 sub has simply two wires if memory serves right and the 2015 sub has 8 wires going into it.

Is the 2015 one tied into the canbus system or have a built in amp? Any way to make it work the way it is?

Mattk11

The newer in floor sub has 4 - 2ohm input pairs while the older side mounted subs only have 2 - 2ohm input pairs so they are not directly compatible. I would add an external amp for the new sub and wire it to 2 ohms and give it no more than 150-200 watts for fear of blowing it. I estimate that the factory amp may do 12w RMS x 4 to the sub so you will be giving it a lot of power. You could also just connect two of the coils but I wouldn't recommend it.

bushpilot

I built my own before Mopar/Jeep thought of doing one....

More pictures at this Thread HERE

JP_2015JK

Matt... not to hi-jack the thread... but maybe you can help both of us at once if I ask a different / additional question

Can you tell me which of the eight 2015 subwoofer wires I can snip and feed into a 2 channel line output converter?... I want to get rid of the sub in my 2015, but use the OEM wires / signal to add an amp with some 12's

This may be a solution for Vladimer as well.... here is a pic... I'm guessing he could just use the 2 pairs of the 2 ohm'erz and just tape up the ends of the remaining ones so that they don't short out. If I knew which ones would work for me, then they should also work for him. I will pull this thing out of my Jeep this weekend and measure the impedance. As long as the speaker matches the impedance of his 2012 system, he should be able to wire it up.





EDIT --- Ok, so upon further investigation, I have found out that the amp in the 2015 Jeep is actually a 552W 12 channel amp, delivering around 46 watts per channel. What you see here in my picture is 4 channels going directly into this subwoofer.

So I've answered my own question = I can plug any two sets of these wires into my line output converter to obtain a signal for my new amp and 12's .... All I need is "any" signal, and I don't need extra current to the processor, so two channel leads will be unused.

As for Vladimer's question... 2012 used a dual voice coil speaker (2 ohm on each coil) , 2015 is actually built with quad voice coils (2 ohm for each)

If I were you, I would give up on the 2015 sub, simply because the 2012 system doesn't have the beef to run this speaker. but as long as you match impedance for the two coils, you wont blow up the speaker. It just wont sound as good as it would in a 2015 vehicle because you're missing 2 channels of inputs. (You can get tricky in terms of series / parallel wiring and actually fire all 4 coils, but at the end of the day, you only have 2 channels coming out of your amp, and you can only get out of it what the 2012 amp can offer)

If you need help, I can go into more detail and explain the route that I'm taking... use a LOC from the inputs, and add a new amp and speakers.


Thanks
JP

Mattk11

There's a lot in you post so I'm not sure if I'm following completely.

If you're just using an LOC, you can tap into any pair of the existing wiring. Pretty sure they are matched up by color coding. The output of each channel is around 40w into 2 ohms and that is likely a max output number not RMS. Be careful, I've heard of others using a 300w amp on the Jeep sub and blowing the woofer.

If you are not adding an amp and planning to power it with a pre-2015 factory Alpine/infinity amp, you are only powering two of the 4 coils and under powering it at that. If you try to combine coils, you will have either 1 ohm by 2 coils which will damage the amp or 4 ohms by 2 coils which will be vastly under powered. Basically it's a half-ass way of piecing together a Franken-system.

jhiton

So Matt or JP, if I am trying to wire the alpine quad coil sub to say the sub channel on the alpine pdx v9 5 channel amp, how would i go about that correctly. Ive been searching for this answer forever.

Mattk11

Wire two sets of channels each in a series - that will give you two pair at 4 ohms each, then combine those remaining 2 pair in parallel (combine +'s and -'s together). You will have a single remaining pair that will show 2 ohms at your amp. Google for the series/parallel diagrams Use a multimeter to check it and it should read approx 2 ohms. Be careful, that Alpine will do 500w into 2 ohms and will blow that woofer in no time. I'd guess that Alpine woofer can handle 200w max.

bushpilot

QUAD?? Ive never heard of such an animal.
are you installing TWO subs (each with dual voice coils)?

JP_2015JK

I've actually been doing quite a bit of research on this

The 2015 subwoofer can only be wired in the following manner...

4 inputs @ 2 ohm (the stock application)
1 input @ 2 ohm (as Matt has drawn out for us)
2 inputs @ 4 ohm
1 input @ 8 ohm

(and optionally, a fully parallel single input at 1/2 ohm, but few amps provide 1/2 ohm stability)

I have confirmed the following:

1) This is definitely a quad voice coil speaker
2) Each coil is roughly 1.9 ohm (so prepare for 2 ohms on each coil when doing your math)
3) A test tone of 50 HZ at volume level 38 on the stock head unit produced a voltage of 8.8V, which would equate to 40W per coil --- Thus telling me they have the system set up to run 160 watts through this sub. Which makes perfect sense, because the amp is 552watts RMS which provides 46 watts per channel. (Yes its 552 RMS, not peak. It drives 46 watts nominally, and spends 40 at the speaker which tells me its roughly 88% efficient with 6 watt heat loss or etc....... not too shabby)

Matt's picture is the diagram for a 2 ohm load.... so if you have .... say... a mono amp that can drive 160 watts into a single 2 ohm load, then you can wire it as shown in Matt's picture and you're all set.

Both Power and Impedance matching is important, so be mindful of this. If you max out your amp and it still cant fully power the speaker, the speaker can fry your amp. If you over power the speaker, you can fry the speaker. Its better to choose a slightly over powered amp and reduce the gain, than an under powered one that is maxed out all the time. Each of the wiring possibilities I've stated would require different amp spec's to properly match the load and properly operate the speaker.

Here is what I'm doing with my system. Since the stock Jeep subwoofer has 4 channels running to it, I will cut 2 of them and use them as line level to RCA inputs to a new amp which will run 12" subs. Then I will run the other two channels as line level to RCA inputs into a separate 2 channel amp .... and use the two 4 ohm load wiring option for the stock subwoofer. This will allow me to keep all of the sound that the Jeep already has to offer, plus toggle the amp for the 12's by means of a separate added toggle switch under the dash on days when the sun comes out :-)

I am personally looking into something like the Pioneer GM A5602, which is a 2 channel amp at 150 watts RMS x 2 channels into a 4 ohm load, almost a perfect match for the speaker at 75W per coil so that I can keep the gain knob at around 50% and have a very clean sound without generating a lot of heat in the amp. (This particular amp doesn't have a cooling fan, and I suspect its an AB amp which isn't as efficient as a D type)

Anyhow, that's the just of the speaker.

JP

JP_2015JK

Update --- I actually did this and it turned out great, sorta... but now the mid-bass cant keep up

I have two old school 12" Crunch Devastator series speakers... from like 1992... lol ... the box that they came in was a terribly highly tuned 1.8 cubic feet hair band type punch drum box, so I converted them over to a vented isobaric enclosure using WINISD. I tuned the box to 37 hz and it absolutely POUNDS... I'm guessing its pushing into the mid 120's with perfect SQ @ 300 watts. They are 200w RMS each, but they are also 24+ years old so I held my amp down to 150w each as not to over excursion-ate them ... I'm pretty happy with it, I had no idea they were going to hit this hard.

The cabin gain helps out in the early 40's and the box gain takes over from there and up through the mid 50's... the box starts to fall on its face around 80-90 hz where I fully expected the mid bass to take over (a little) ... I'm finding that the mid-bass is really no match for the box... I may have to figure out how to upgrade the sound bar some how. I was hoping the stock 2015 Jeep subwoofer would help take over in the upper 90's being in a sealed enclosure, but it just doesn't seem to do its job (as I had hoped it would) ... Its like I have 2 -12" monsters which attempt to hand the music over to a single 6 x 9 (or 8 x 12 in this case) ... some songs are bing, bang, BONGGGGG with zero bing, +2 bang and +12 bong... lol

Moral of the story..... you don't know..... what you don't have..... until after you upgrade... I'm not sure if I'm going to even keep this stock 2015 sub at this point, I may disconnect it all together and split the signal into 2 - 6-9's

Peace
JP