So yesterday evening I ordered some stereo parts and after getting them delivered this afternoon, I started the install. After some googling, I figured out how to rip out the dash, which was way easier than I expected. I hooked up the wiring and tested it out and most things are working properly, but I am having a few issues. The parts I ordered are:

JVC KDR740BT
77KICK10
40-EU10
RP4-CH11
Metra 99-6511

I have a 2012 jku sport (no infinity)

I haven't gotten the speakers yet, so no issues there. I chose the RP4-CH11 because I wanted to keep the steering wheel controls, dimming, chimes, etc... and wanted a quicker easier install without splicing into power/acc.

So issue #1 is with the Metra 99-6511 mounting depth, the jvc sits pretty far back into the pocket (see pic). It's not a huge deal, but I've seen someone post about this before, so I know it's not just me. So has everyone else w/1din using 99-6511 just dealt with the recessed HU?

#2 Dimming not working.
#3 Steering wheel controls are messed up

I'm assuming #2 and #3 are related. I hooked everything up between the JVC harness and the rp4-ch11, and I'm fairly certain my connections are tight. The speakers all work, balance/fade are all fine. Power is good, door chimes are good, ignition-off delay & door-open turn-off are both good too. It's just dimming and steering wheel controls that are goofy. The dimming doesnt seem to be working at all, but the steering wheel controls work about once every 30 tries, but with a delay of about 10 seconds if it does work. I did set the rp4-ch11 to "2" for JVC, and the remote wire is connected, so I'm not sure what's wrong.

#4 40-eu10 connection into antenna is too tight, can't get it connected. It's fine on the HU side of the connection, just too tight on the vehicle side of it. The adapter looks identical to the input on the factory HU, so I'm not sure why I cant squeeze it on. I might be able to slam it in with some vice grips and a hammer, but I really don't want to break anything

It got dark out, so I'm going to take a break till tomorrow, but wanted to ping the experts while I wait. I'm thinking about hitting the reset button on the PAC unit to see if it helps my steering wheel controls and dimming. Obviously I will check my remote and dim wire connections to make sure I don't have it miswired or a loose connection.

On a better note, the jvc was cheap (as were the other parts) and sounds fairly good. I'm hoping that the 77kick10's help out even more. I did a quick connection to bluetooth for pandora streaming for my android phone and it only took a few seconds to set the whole thing up, and it sounds much better than expected, as good as using aux input and headphone jack. If I could get these few minor issues worked out, I will be happy. Honestly, I'm more excited about the bluetooth mp3/pandora for android than I am about the increase in sound quality/volume. Not bad for $100 HU and $100 in other connectors/trim-kit.

 

You think that you have space problems. Try installing a 2D HU ( you have to cut braces to make room ). There is a cavity at the back/left side of the HU area. Tuck the PAC into there.

My new HU doesn't dimm very well either. Remember, the Jeep system is totally different from older systems. The Jeep dimms the HU thru a communication network. The OE HU actually did the dimming. With your current arrangement, the Jeep is telling the PAC unit to dimm. And it is doing the dimming. That little box is probably not capable of fully dimming the lights. Just my $0.02.

Because the control signal have to pass thru an interface ( PAC Modual ), I would expect that there may be some delay. But not much. I beleiev that your biggest issue is still your new connections ( possibly breaking when tucked into limited space ). Roll everything out of the dash and try the system that way.

 

So I figured a few things out and came up with a few more minor odd issues.

The steering wheel controls and dimming works now. I'm not 100% sure what caused it, but I tried the shotgun method instead of isolating components while troubleshooting. I unplugged everything, rechecked connections, reset everything. I also found a bent pin on the pac harness, but I'm not 100% sure that I didn't do that after I was reconnecting everything. Anyway, long story short the pac seems to be working fine now (mostly).

For the super-tight antenna adapter, I used vice-grips on the top and bottom flanges to slowly slide them together. It took a long time, but they're connected now. Granted, I don't think I will ever be able to unplug it if I ever put the factory stereo back in.

On to the recessed stereo, not sure if i explained it correctly. The bezel fit fine into the dash. It was the din-sleeve that sat really deep into the bezel. This is just how that bezel is made, and it looks bad if you just push it all the way into the bezel as intended. SO what I did was took the first row of tabs on the din-sleeve and bent them so the sleeve wouldn't go so deep into the bezel. Then I used the second row of tabs to lock the din-sleeve in place from behind. So instead of the the din sleeve being locked in between the front lip of the sleeze and the first row of tabs, it's locked in between the first and second row of tabs, so the din-sleeve (and stereo) sits about 1/2 inch farther out of the bezel, so it looks normal now. Whoever designed that bezel did a very poor job, either that or there is some sort of spacer piece that did not come with mine.

On to the odd problems:

1. The "preset" steering wheel button (middle button on left side) cycles through presets backwards....weird.
2. I'm getting some random interference (buzzing/humming). I haven't done a lot of troubleshooting, but it seemed to only come from the front left speaker, and only when it was on pandora bluetooth streaming, even with the sound turned all the way down. I didn't have time to check it out, so I just left it as-is. It might happen in other sources, but didn't check it out today because it seemed to only happen yesterday.

 

On the dash kit, there are usually two mounting options: Din and ISO-Din. ISO-Din looks a lot cleaner and usually requires an extra bracket that is in the dash kit. It usually makes the stereo face sit a little further out. Din just uses the cage that came with the stereo, and doesn't look quite as good imo.