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New system, need PAC?

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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 02:30 PM
  #1  
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Post New system, need PAC?

I've been reading about the PAC harness for a while now, but haven't been able to find any solid answers.

I'll be coming off deployment soon, and that means I'll be adding a whole bunch of mods and a new sound system is one I'm thinking of adding a Kenwood DPX308U header from Crutchfield with new speakers + sub amp and sub. I've got the infinity system currently (2007 Rubicon), but since I'm replacing everything do I really need to buy a PAC harness or can I just use the harness that comes with the Kenwood? Would I lose any functionality or mess up the CAN BUS? This is the first system I've ever messed with, so I just want to make sure I'm not going to blow anything up...

Thanks!
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 07:50 PM
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Get the harness, metra makes one also. They plug right in to factory harness and takes care of features that are built in to the canbus. You can find them on the net for around 45 to 80 bucks. Makes it super easy
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 12:54 PM
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I had read on here that PAC's dont work on OEM units and that the JL cleansweep is a better route. Does the Metra have amp outputs and what unit did you install this on??
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 11:56 PM
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I'm swapping in a new head so I won't need the cleansweep, but that would be interesting solution if you just wanted to replace the speakers and leave the head in. I figure I'll just go with the PAC harness since crutchfield gives it half off if you buy a new head, and I read somewhere you still have to tap into accessory power with the metra.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 02:56 AM
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If you're replacing everything (amp, head unit, speakers, speaker wiring) you don't need the PAC harness. If you are keeping the factory amp you wll need it to convert the speaker out and ignition on signals. Most of them allow you to have balance only but the Axxess one also has fade function.

I didn't have to tap any extra wires on my Axxess harness and it works well with my Kenwood nav unit.

If I did it again, I would replace the entire system and run all new wiring for the speakers and a new amp with sub out. The factory "premium" amp can't compare to a good quality aftermarket one.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 07:58 AM
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I recently replaced my entire Infinity system , all new Polk Audio speakers and sub, JVC head unit, Alpine Amp and Axxess steering controls adapter. I used a Metra factory harness adapter (22-pin) to make connections for power / ground, and spliced the can bus wires to the steering adapter, and tapped (solder spliced) the retained accessory power circuit at the power window module.
I ran all new speaker wire to everything

Last edited by vulcan classic; Oct 23, 2012 at 08:04 AM.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 08:41 AM
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You want a PAC or Axxess harness with any aftermarket HU to grab the constant and switched +12v as well as ground - without cutting any wiring. The Jeep CAN Bus system does not like voltage going to new places. Use the harness strictly for that and you can leave the factory harness uncut and untouched. Plus this keeps your Retained Accessory Power in tact.

That way if something electrical dies you are covered. Gauranteed that if your main board died and the stealership looks at a sliced/hacked harness, it will not be covered. Just sayin.

In my personal experience with a previous vehicle, I tried the Axxess harness and the wiring was wrong. The PAC version was spot on and was a much better quality unit. They keep the same wiring colors too as factory. The Axxess wiring was all over the place and had hot pink on one side, orange striped etc - which was horrible. PAC uses the same purples, greens, greys as the factory.

Lastly the steering wheel interface for the PAC is plug and play. Then program. No cutting and soldering of the brown wire etc. Not sure if the Jeep harness from Axxess is better.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by vulcan classic
I recently replaced my entire Infinity system , all new Polk Audio speakers and sub, JVC head unit, Alpine Amp and Axxess steering controls adapter. I used a Metra factory harness adapter (22-pin) to make connections for power / ground, and spliced the can bus wires to the steering adapter, and tapped (solder spliced) the retained accessory power circuit at the power window module.
I ran all new speaker wire to everything
I'm replacing everything too, but I'm guessing you used a 5 channel amp hence the new speaker wire? I'm only going to be running an amp to the subs, everything else off the new head so that's why I'm leaning towards the PAC. No power windows, so if I did go with a Metra harness I could just tap into the cig lighter, right? Where did you mount your amp and would you really see a huge difference by running new wire?

And my jeep is at the end of its warranty, with no steering wheel controls.
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