P0340 cam shaft position sensor
 

My 2010 3.8 keeps throwing the cam position sensor code P0340 with the traction control light with limp mode. I've cleaned connections on the harness for the cam, air, and coolant sensor. Wiring looks OK to me other than the tightness of it and exposure where the brittle plastic loom disintegrated.

This all started a day after flushing the antifreeze and changing oil. But the first code thrown was P0116 coolant sensor. So replaced that and the thermostat. That code went away and the P0340 popped up with the traction control light. I can clear the code and start it, only to have it pop right back up. It doesn't start every time, as would be expected with the cam sensor erroring out. I haven't replaced that yet since I've seen so many guys just throwing part after part at it, to no avail. I probably will order a new one tomorrow, though.

I've scoured the internet, found lots of people in my predicament, but no answers. I'm at a loss and was supposed to take it on vacay on the beach tomorrow for the week. Now we're taking the nissan sentra so you can imagine how I feel right about now. :mad:
Thanks in advance, guys. I'm all out of skill.

I'm fighting this on my 08 JKU. I am going to try and replace the plug to the Camshaft Sensor. I have the part and am looking for the wiring diagram on how to patch in. If I wiggle the wire loom that is above the sensor when I have the code, the red lightning bolt and no start, the jeep then starts and runs fine without codes. So I believe it has to be the wiring. I was amazed at how brittle all the wiring is already and how a lot of the plastic loom is gone close to the engine. Not removed, but brittle and crumbled. You can even see the burnt up crumbles on the block. I thought about replacing the entire wire harness for the engine, but really cant find anything definitive on what to get, even on the Mopar parts sites. If my wire patch does not work, then that might still be the next step.

Usually your original tags for the harnesses will be in tact. I was able to buy a headlight harness and repair my harness where I had butchered it many years back. I replaced the loom while I was in there. The wires are crazy thin so it wouldn't surprise me if that was the cause of an issue.

You're exactly right! That plastic wiring loom is worthless. Most of it has disintegrated, leaving the wire exposed to the heat as it's practically laying against the front of that hot valve cover. Hell, the purple wire from the sensor to the starter is stretched tight as a banjo string.

What's that part number in case I need to do the same?

I think the plug is used in multiple applications.

Standard Motor parts #S-738. PartsGeek or O'Reilly's.
Duralast #445. Autozone (obviously).

I do not have the Mopar #. I went with the one that was in stock at the local parts store. It was around $15.

I got it in last night. Had to pull off the air intake hose and unplug a few other pats of the harness so I could get enough slack to patch in. I used the non insulated butt connectors for the splice and followed up with shrink wrap on each of the three wires. Probably should have soldered but did not have a good position for the iron to rest on and really did not want to wrestle with it. Left enough slack that there was not tension on the wires from that plug. Then I replaced most of the loom around the wires in that area that were gone or brittle.

It started right up without codes or dash lights this morning. We will see how long that lasts.

We'll I got the new 100 friggen dollar CPS installed. I'm hoping this is the fix but not holding my breath. But check out the oily moisture on the plug of the old CPS. No way should it look like that. I'm hoping that indicates that it was just a randomly timed failure of the CPS, rather than a wiring issue related to my accidentally yanking a wire loose somehow. I did check out the wiring and sprayed contact cleaner on the connection points. So far so good. Cranked up strong. Moment of truth will be the first time I take it out for an hour drive. I've seen lots of other guys who have replaced the CPS only to have the code come back. If that happens to me, I'll focus on the wiring and connectors.
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