Sometimes my Jeep won’t turn over
#1
JK Newbie
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Rockton, Il
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Sometimes my Jeep won’t turn over
I drive a 2008 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon and sometimes after it sits, it won’t turn over. For some reason to get it to start you have to push the transmission further into park, hold it there, then turn the key and it starts right up. We’ve taken it to the dealer multiple times and once even paid a lot of money for them to fix it and it’s not been fixed yet. Does anyone know what’s wrong with it and how to fix it?
#4
JK Jedi Master
That sounds a lot like the "click- no start" problem quite a few people have had, especially with the early automatic JKs.
Try running a heavy ground wire from the alternator mount bolt to the battery negative terminal. That has solved the problem for a lot of people.
Try running a heavy ground wire from the alternator mount bolt to the battery negative terminal. That has solved the problem for a lot of people.
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OnBelay (05-28-2019)
#5
JK Jedi
I can't help with the issue, but following along out of curiosity. I was originally thinking it sounded like maybe something in the transmission cable linkage.....like the vehicle is in "P", but you're having to hold the shifter with a little pressure for the computer to recognize it's in "P" in order to crank. Ronjenx, is there some sort of sensor that determines the location of the shifter, or is that all mechanical? This is not an area I've had to explore on my jeep.
#6
JK Jedi Master
I can't help with the issue, but following along out of curiosity. I was originally thinking it sounded like maybe something in the transmission cable linkage.....like the vehicle is in "P", but you're having to hold the shifter with a little pressure for the computer to recognize it's in "P" in order to crank. Ronjenx, is there some sort of sensor that determines the location of the shifter, or is that all mechanical? This is not an area I've had to explore on my jeep.
Here's the sequence of events as I understand it:
The transmission lever is in the Park position.
The transmission range sensor contacts are arranged properly to tell the computer the transmission is in Park.
The key is turned to Start.
The starter relay is allowed to close.
A jolt of electricity tries to go to the starter, but because of inadequate engine/transmission ground connections, some of that jolt finds its way through the transmission range sensor contacts.
The jolt through the sensor contacts causes a loss of continuity to the computer, which brings the start sequence to a halt because the computer no longer sees the transmission as being in Park.
Moving the lever to Neutral, or even further into Park, moves the range sensor contacts enough to reestablish continuity, and the JK is allowed to start.
The addition of a large ground wire from the alternator mount bolt to the battery negative terminal prevents this problem. Adding another one from the engine to the transmission helps, too.
If the OP has the usual click-no start issue, this will help.
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#7
JK Jedi
You're a wealth of information Ronjenx! Thank you for that thorough explanation.
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#9
JK Freak
With the 42RLE, it's mechanical from the transmission lever to the transmission range sensor, which is inside the transmission, awash in transmission fluid. It's possible the linkage/cable is out of rig, but usually it's a loss of good contact at the range sensor. That loss of good contact can be caused by inadequate engine/transmission grounding.
Here's the sequence of events as I understand it:
The transmission lever is in the Park position.
The transmission range sensor contacts are arranged properly to tell the computer the transmission is in Park.
The key is turned to Start.
The starter relay is allowed to close.
A jolt of electricity tries to go to the starter, but because of inadequate engine/transmission ground connections, some of that jolt finds its way through the transmission range sensor contacts.
The jolt through the sensor contacts causes a loss of continuity to the computer, which brings the start sequence to a halt because the computer no longer sees the transmission as being in Park.
Moving the lever to Neutral, or even further into Park, moves the range sensor contacts enough to reestablish continuity, and the JK is allowed to start.
The addition of a large ground wire from the alternator mount bolt to the battery negative terminal prevents this problem. Adding another one from the engine to the transmission helps, too.
If the OP has the usual click-no start issue, this will help.
Here's the sequence of events as I understand it:
The transmission lever is in the Park position.
The transmission range sensor contacts are arranged properly to tell the computer the transmission is in Park.
The key is turned to Start.
The starter relay is allowed to close.
A jolt of electricity tries to go to the starter, but because of inadequate engine/transmission ground connections, some of that jolt finds its way through the transmission range sensor contacts.
The jolt through the sensor contacts causes a loss of continuity to the computer, which brings the start sequence to a halt because the computer no longer sees the transmission as being in Park.
Moving the lever to Neutral, or even further into Park, moves the range sensor contacts enough to reestablish continuity, and the JK is allowed to start.
The addition of a large ground wire from the alternator mount bolt to the battery negative terminal prevents this problem. Adding another one from the engine to the transmission helps, too.
If the OP has the usual click-no start issue, this will help.