Splicing into ignition switched power
#1
JK Freak
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Splicing into ignition switched power
Hey guys,
So on the ignition switch, there are 3 positions, off, on, and ignition. I am trying to find a good place to tap into power that is only available when the key is in the ignition position.
I'm trying to wire my ARB compressor to only be available when the key is in the ignition position. I've had it tapped into the left hand power outlet, but that is also powered when the key is "on." Unfortunately, one of my passengers flipped the switch on when the key was in the on position with the engine off, and it completely killed my battery almost instantly.
So any good places to tap into available only at the ignition position?
Micah
So on the ignition switch, there are 3 positions, off, on, and ignition. I am trying to find a good place to tap into power that is only available when the key is in the ignition position.
I'm trying to wire my ARB compressor to only be available when the key is in the ignition position. I've had it tapped into the left hand power outlet, but that is also powered when the key is "on." Unfortunately, one of my passengers flipped the switch on when the key was in the on position with the engine off, and it completely killed my battery almost instantly.
So any good places to tap into available only at the ignition position?
Micah
#3
JK Freak
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Micah
#4
the cig lighter is a switched source. You could splice into it. I used mine for a radio install and for a switched source to a relay to power other stuff. Just keep the load low. I only used the plug for my radar detector so the other couple thins sharing the wire were nothing. Just make sure if you have any load to attach, just use a relay and use that to switch the relay. Then you can run a power block off it if you want with all the switched 12v connections you want. Just a thought.
#5
JK Freak
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the cig lighter is a switched source. You could splice into it. I used mine for a radio install and for a switched source to a relay to power other stuff. Just keep the load low. I only used the plug for my radar detector so the other couple thins sharing the wire were nothing. Just make sure if you have any load to attach, just use a relay and use that to switch the relay. Then you can run a power block off it if you want with all the switched 12v connections you want. Just a thought.
Micah
#6
the "ignition" source that you're talking about is to start (crank) the engine. Once you let go, it'll go back to the "on" position. The only place you can do what you want to do is to tap into the power at the fuel pump. The ecm will energize the pump with the pump for several seconds with the key on but kill the power to it if the engine isn't running or cranking. I don't recommend this since that is the lifeline to your vehicle running but if you decide to do it anyway, use it to energize a relay that suplies the actual 12V to the compressor.
#7
JK Freak
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I understand what you mean. However, I am not talking about the crank position. There are several positions, off, on, ignition, and crank (momentary, then it goes back to ignition). The cigar lighter is actually on in all of the above positions (even off until the 10 second timer finishes). It isn't a true ignition-only power source. The problem is that if you're sitting in your car listening to the radio with the engine off and the key in the first "on" position, you can still accidentally activate your compressor and completely kill your battery in under a second.
Micah
Micah
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#8
JK Freak
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I think I found it!
The first position on the 12 way connector going to the a/c and heater control is a pink and yellow wire. I believe it runs directly to the run relay via a 10 amp fuse. I'm going to try tapping in there for the switch and seeing if it works. From what I can tell, the switched circuit turning the compressor relay on and off only pulls about 200 mA, so it should be fine.
I'll let you know how it works.
Micah
The first position on the 12 way connector going to the a/c and heater control is a pink and yellow wire. I believe it runs directly to the run relay via a 10 amp fuse. I'm going to try tapping in there for the switch and seeing if it works. From what I can tell, the switched circuit turning the compressor relay on and off only pulls about 200 mA, so it should be fine.
I'll let you know how it works.
Micah
#9
JK Freak
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It worked! So for true ignition-switched accessories, the relay should be switched off of the fused run relay source. Again, it's found in the 12 way heater/ac connector, and it's the pink and yellow wire coming off of the first pin.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Micah
Let me know if you have any questions.
Micah
#10
JK Super Freak
Also there is the M8 Heated Seat fuse tap in the TIPM. Key positions are Off, Accessory (Radio, Power Windows, etc), Run (Gauges and Error Lights lit, A/C fan on, etc) and Start (Momentary engine crank). The M8 location is only energized in the Run position.