Stock Speaker Upgrade x2
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Stock Speaker Upgrade x2
I replaced my dash speaker with Infinity 62.9Iand my sound bar with Infinity 6022I which are both 6 1/2 to 6 3/4 replacement speakers.
I have installed the Dynomat as previous threads have suggested.
Also, there is a thread with instructions on how to remove the speakers that I found on this site, and it is very accurate. https://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.p...peaker+removal
What I found is that no matter what I did, I still had a bad vibration at the front lower speakers.
I added more Dynomat and even bought the polyfill as another member suggested.
What I did that finally took that vibration out of the front lower dash speakers was to drill a 2" hole in the speaker box. I drilled the holes from each box facing into the center on the side of the box. Also, I used the foam strip that came with the speakers. In between the speaker and the mounting ring.
My best sound was with the Dynomat on the inside of the box, and no polyfill on the inside.
Now the speakers have mid and low response without the "buzzing" or "vibration" that I had before.
There have been various threads about the low sound output from the sound bar speakers. Ever after replacing the speakers, the volume of sound was still very minimal. In one thread an engineer said that they had to drop the volume of the rear speaker due to the vibrations caused by the plastic sound bar enclosure. The dynomat has stopped the vibration / humming, but I needed to do something about the volume.
Buying an aftermarket head unit would help, but because of the can buss, you need to purchase an additional PAC wire harness that is about $140 from Crutchfield. ($80 on e-bay)
So, this weekend I added an amp to the system. I bought a Sony amp for $100 at WalMart. The amp had the ability to receive the signal from either RCA jacks or the speaker wires. I used the following wiring diagram to locate the wires I needed to tap into: https://www.jk-forum.com/attachment.p...7&d=1203785241
I took the plastic seat belt cover off on the passenger side and found the wiring harness. Cut the tape and exposed the wires. Found the pairs using the wiring diagram and cut them and spliced them into harness that came with the amp. The amp has four channels. I used the "front" channel to power the rear speakers in the sound bar. The "rear" channel can be bridged and I am going to hook up a bass tube speaker that I ordered last night.
I mounted the amp under the passenger seat. I removed the seat to do the install. Having the extra room was helpful, but removing the four bolts holding the seat down was very difficult. Must have been some locking agent on the bolts.
Again, in a previous thread regarding stereos someone suggested buying amp install kit at walmart for $17 which has all of the things needed to power the amp. Nice tip, the kit had everything you need.
There is a grounding point under the passenger seat which made the grounding easy.
There is a rubber grommet in the firewall, behind the glovebox. I used a coat hanger to poke through the rubber and to pull the power cable from the battery to the amp.
Made all of the terminations and turned on the stereo. Wow, what a difference. The rear speakers really had some output. They did not have a lot of low end bass. This may be due to the head unit not sending a lot of bass to them. I hope when I hook up the bass tube, that I will get more low end. There are low pass and high pass filters on the amp which I can change once the tube speaker is installed.
Drove to work this morning and was really impressed with the sound. I have a soft top and the additional sound coming from the rears was very noticable. I will follow up once the bass tube is installed.
I also bought the seat filler plates from Kilby to hide / protect the amp from the side. I will take a picture of the amp before and after I install the plate from Kilby.http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/imag...t_panel_PS.jpg
Cost Breakdown:
Front Tweeters $119 (plus shipping)
Front Dash Infinity 62.9I $130 (Best Buy)
Dynomat $30 (Best Buy)
Rear Sound Bar Infinity 6022I $100 (Best Buy)
Sony Xplod Amp $98 (WalMart)
Amp Wiring Kit $17 (WalMart)
Total for sound is over $500 with tax and shipping Kilby side panels are $50
I have installed the Dynomat as previous threads have suggested.
Also, there is a thread with instructions on how to remove the speakers that I found on this site, and it is very accurate. https://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.p...peaker+removal
What I found is that no matter what I did, I still had a bad vibration at the front lower speakers.
I added more Dynomat and even bought the polyfill as another member suggested.
What I did that finally took that vibration out of the front lower dash speakers was to drill a 2" hole in the speaker box. I drilled the holes from each box facing into the center on the side of the box. Also, I used the foam strip that came with the speakers. In between the speaker and the mounting ring.
My best sound was with the Dynomat on the inside of the box, and no polyfill on the inside.
Now the speakers have mid and low response without the "buzzing" or "vibration" that I had before.
There have been various threads about the low sound output from the sound bar speakers. Ever after replacing the speakers, the volume of sound was still very minimal. In one thread an engineer said that they had to drop the volume of the rear speaker due to the vibrations caused by the plastic sound bar enclosure. The dynomat has stopped the vibration / humming, but I needed to do something about the volume.
Buying an aftermarket head unit would help, but because of the can buss, you need to purchase an additional PAC wire harness that is about $140 from Crutchfield. ($80 on e-bay)
So, this weekend I added an amp to the system. I bought a Sony amp for $100 at WalMart. The amp had the ability to receive the signal from either RCA jacks or the speaker wires. I used the following wiring diagram to locate the wires I needed to tap into: https://www.jk-forum.com/attachment.p...7&d=1203785241
I took the plastic seat belt cover off on the passenger side and found the wiring harness. Cut the tape and exposed the wires. Found the pairs using the wiring diagram and cut them and spliced them into harness that came with the amp. The amp has four channels. I used the "front" channel to power the rear speakers in the sound bar. The "rear" channel can be bridged and I am going to hook up a bass tube speaker that I ordered last night.
I mounted the amp under the passenger seat. I removed the seat to do the install. Having the extra room was helpful, but removing the four bolts holding the seat down was very difficult. Must have been some locking agent on the bolts.
Again, in a previous thread regarding stereos someone suggested buying amp install kit at walmart for $17 which has all of the things needed to power the amp. Nice tip, the kit had everything you need.
There is a grounding point under the passenger seat which made the grounding easy.
There is a rubber grommet in the firewall, behind the glovebox. I used a coat hanger to poke through the rubber and to pull the power cable from the battery to the amp.
Made all of the terminations and turned on the stereo. Wow, what a difference. The rear speakers really had some output. They did not have a lot of low end bass. This may be due to the head unit not sending a lot of bass to them. I hope when I hook up the bass tube, that I will get more low end. There are low pass and high pass filters on the amp which I can change once the tube speaker is installed.
Drove to work this morning and was really impressed with the sound. I have a soft top and the additional sound coming from the rears was very noticable. I will follow up once the bass tube is installed.
I also bought the seat filler plates from Kilby to hide / protect the amp from the side. I will take a picture of the amp before and after I install the plate from Kilby.http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/imag...t_panel_PS.jpg
Cost Breakdown:
Front Tweeters $119 (plus shipping)
Front Dash Infinity 62.9I $130 (Best Buy)
Dynomat $30 (Best Buy)
Rear Sound Bar Infinity 6022I $100 (Best Buy)
Sony Xplod Amp $98 (WalMart)
Amp Wiring Kit $17 (WalMart)
Total for sound is over $500 with tax and shipping Kilby side panels are $50
Last edited by xJake; 04-02-2009 at 03:16 PM.
#2
When I installed my Infinity after market speakers it was very apparent that they were not as good as the factory speakers. The after market Infinity's had terrible cone flap that only went away if I placed my finger on the cone, needless to say I switched back to stock right away. I think the reason for the cone flap is that the after market Infinity speakers are designed for an open baffle application where the Jeep's speaker pods are sealed.
Regardless, it's my opinion that the stock speakers are very good units. They have good frequency response and work very well in the stock speaker pods (after the pods have been deadened). I honestly believe that the only negatives to the stock Infinity speakers is the long held belief that factory stereos and components are of poor quality and the fact that the pods resonate.
PS - It shouldn't matter if the the Dynamat is on the inside or outside of the enclosure. I think what you're experiencing is psychological.
Regardless, it's my opinion that the stock speakers are very good units. They have good frequency response and work very well in the stock speaker pods (after the pods have been deadened). I honestly believe that the only negatives to the stock Infinity speakers is the long held belief that factory stereos and components are of poor quality and the fact that the pods resonate.
PS - It shouldn't matter if the the Dynamat is on the inside or outside of the enclosure. I think what you're experiencing is psychological.
Last edited by MaloCS; 05-12-2009 at 07:04 AM.
#3
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I just wish the dealer could flash the PCM to remove the soundbar speaker volume limit. It's totally BS and even if I had to sign a waiver or something about vibrations I would want the limit removed.
#4
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Also with these amps the entire Jeep vibtrates/rattles when listening from the outside, I have been shoving sh*t everywhere, in the soundbar, in the doors, the rear door, the front vibrates somewhere?
Last edited by def9112; 05-12-2009 at 12:10 PM.
#5
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For the original post'r...search a little more and you will find that the factory signal is crossed over at about 125k, therefore you will not get any lower tones by tapping into the front or soundbar speakers. You can use that for signal, and amplify that signal for more volume, but you will not be able to use an amplifier crossover to go lower than the input signal...all this due to CANBus and the factory amp setup.