What? I can't hear you? Turn the stereo down? No thanks!
 

Hey all! Hopefully the collective intelligence and knowledge-base can help me figure this out.
I've already scoured this forum, and others, so my questions are quite specific and narrowed down.

Have: 2011 JKU Saraha with infinity stereo & "subwoofer", lol, if thats what they like to call it.
Task: Remove OEM speakers, add 5 channel amp, rewire and install all speakers, install sub, setup soundstage, relax.
Components: Alpine MRX-V60 4 channel amp + mono, Alpine SPS-610c (6.5" mid with remote tweeter for fronts, which is fed directly from the 6.5" mid, with onboard/inline signal correction), Alpine 6.5" for speakerbar, Kicker 10" L3 sub.

Basically.... Upgrading the POS OEM speaker system. From what I can gather, the best location to tap into the OEM signal is POST amp/processor, most commonly near passenger door. I'll be leaving the OEM H/U, and amp installed, I don't care to fight with Canbus issues, and JK is on warranty. This obviously isn't a competition setup, lol, but I can't stand OEM stereos, no matter how good they sound at a dead stop with windows up and no wind noise..lol. Cause we all sit around in our Jeeps and listen to music in the parking lot. :doh:


My questions are:

1) Are the dome tweeters in the JKU provided with their own signal form the amp, or do they chain off of the front speakers?

2)I'm thinking of purchasing a signal processor, such as an LC6i, LC8i (AudioControl), or similar OEM integration device, which sums your OEM signal, removes the frequency curves / spectrum limitations created by your OEM head unit, and converts the output to a full signal low level source, which goes to your aftermarket amp. If I do go that route, I'm a little confused as to which channels to include.

Obviously there will be FL, FR, RL, RR channels (4 channels to input) - BUT, if the dome tweeters are provided their own signal, that bumps it to 6 channels to be summed. THEN - there is the sub. With 2 connections at the Sub itself, (unsure if it is dual coil so the system can push more power to it), or is one connection a return line to the amp, or used as a "system check" for the OEM system, either thrugh Canbus, or simple voltage detection / control?

This is where I am a little discombobulated - I'm assuming the sub output is processed at the OEM amp, which removes the majority of high frequency - giving the bass. If I include the sub signal (originating from the OEM amp), do I utilize both sub connections (thereby adding 2 addition channels to sum up, requiring the LC8i), or just one connection that feeds the sub from the OEM amp, adding only 1 additional channel to sum, requiring only the LC6i? If the latter applies (only use 1 signal connection) does it matter which of the two connections I utilize?

Anyone lost yet? lol.

Thanks in advance,

i use this from kicker and imo it works rather well
http://www.kicker.com/zxsum8
it uses all 8 channels from the stock system

Wow...Sounds like you really know what you're getting yourself into. Any chance you can post some pics and do a write up? I would love to learn from your install.

I know there are oem integration products that will basically replace the factory amp and provide the outputs you want and all of the factory controls. I saw one around $120. I think the tweeters feed comes from the fronts but not positive. The sub is definitely a dual coil with 2 pairs of wires feeding it. Though I don't know if its a right and left signal feed or if you need both. I tapped into both with a LOC and that works good for my pioneer 12". Hope this helps a little.

I wouldn't add an amp unless you're swapping the HU, it will gain you very little in volume and control (remember, you have to double your output to achieve a 3 db increase). In fact, why not swap the HU? All you have to do is run a switched hot, constant hot, illumination, and ground to the new HU, and all of those can be found right there, on the 12V sockets and HVAC, no need for any special harnesses, unless you're keeping the stock amp. Everything else involved with going that route will also have to be dealt with if you plan on adding another amp. If you want to keep the stock HU and amp, don't bother with rear speakers, and just replace the fronts. Yes, the stock Infinity amp sends dedicated signals that are actively crossed over, so just swap speakers and be done. As for getting more bass out of the sub, replacing just the woofer, with an 8" sub, and adding a dedicated amp for it is the cheapest option. That will at least give you some control over volume, and it will be a bit louder, as long as you feed it at least 100 watts. In all honesty, The stock system isn't that bad, and I wouldn't do a whole lot to it, unless you plan on replacing damn near everything.

Choices.... Choices....
 

Thanks for your replies...

DWBRubi - You make a good couple of points, and if I was concerned about the items mentioned, I'd go that route. Fact is, I already have the system planned & purchased, specifically with the intentions of upgrading the H/U at a later date. There are some good double din units out there, but I think they are just starting to catch up to the market of OEM replacements, and are far too pricey for what you get, IMHO.

As for the crossover signals, that issue will be corrected with the summing interface. 8 audio channels summed to re-create the full spectrum of signal. I am still undecided on which brand / model to use yet, I guess whichever provides for the most flexibility in tuning the soundstage to my tastes, and still utilizes the OEM balance/fade and volume controls. Both the Kicker and the AudioControl provide these options, and are similar in price, so it may just be a coin toss...lol.

I've installed and setup my own stereo's all my life, so while I realize that the H/U replacement is the 'least time consuming' and best option for having full control over the audio signal source (not to mention providing RCA low level outputs), it's not viable for me to remove the factory infinity setup at this time. It will be staying in place, and for the ease of not buggering with the CANBus system at this time, I'm willing to accept the tradeoffs with this setup for a while. I enjoy having full use of the steering wheel controls, so while there are adaptors and modules to integrate those controls with some newer head units, it's a road I'd rather not travel until warranty is up.
In addition to that, the navigation, MyGig, and bluetooth / phone controls are also things I don't want to lose.

At any rate, I'd be glad to post progress pics and writeup if anyone thinks it would be useful. Most the of the info I've pulled from the jk-forum, I've just had to piece it together from a ton of different posts.

Thanks again for the reply's
:)

Resources..
 

I'll include this in a full writeup, but figured someone might like these before then.
Just a couple of links I've come across in my research, they may be posted elsewhere already, but I couldn't find specific posts...


Jeep Wiring and component diagrams, with exploded views and individual part numbers / price.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-parts/index.htm


Mopar connector repair/replacement, including pinout listings for ALL OEM CONNECTORS!!!
http://dto.vftis.com/mopar/platform_...asp?return=new

Wow, thanks for those links! Subscribing!

I understand a bit better, now that I know you have the MyGig nav unit and steering wheel controls. I kept on wondering, "what CanBus issues?", but yes, the steering wheel controls would present a small problem. You are right, your HU is better than most aftermarket nav units, and it would cost at least a grand to get something equivelent. I will stay tuned and wish you the best of luck.

We have stereos in our JK's?

NEVER turned mine on other than for the CB..

Good luck with your project.