Zip tied mine to the factory wiring by the Battery. Red Zip Tie /Off road lights-
Blue Zip Tie /Driving lights-Yellow Zip Tie / Fog Lights..
All the wiring was color coded that way so I could tell what wiring went to
which light so i could track down problem in whatever light was have a problem

 

Why did you use the flatbar? Do the relays need to be mounted to metal or just grounded by wire to metal?

 

I used a zip tie and mounted my relay inside the dash up and to the right of the glove box. I used a 10 circuit fuse block mounted below the glove box. I used the stick on Zip tie holders and zipties to mount the fuse block. rite now i have half of the fuse block as constant 12V and the other half runs through the relay for switched 12V.

(fuse block i used)
http://dlcparts.com/fuse-blocks-c-257_261.html

 

Skippman - I'm still in the process of planning my system out. I really like your idea regarding the Blue Sea fuse box and running as few wires as possible into the cab. So here are a few questions, Blue Sea also makes MiniBus Bus Bar. Could I use something like that (one bar for the switch power and one bar for the switch ground) in stead of the "4 to 1" soldering you reference above? Cost aside (which isn't much), is one method safer and/or more effective than the other?

As always, I sincerely appreciate your insight.

 

here's mine, I found these on the Grainger site, theye light up when they

are energized.

 

I don't know that it would be any safer as long as you're running an inline fuse between the power and the ground's. It's basically the same thing. The only difference is my way all of your wires are covered by heat shrink. With that bus bar if anything metal touches it and the body on the power side you could find yourself with a nice arc and possible some welded metal.

That bus bar looks like it's designed to be mounted under some type of access panel. Also, remember marine applications are almost always fiberglass so there's no danger of ground out the bus bar to the hull of the boat like there is to the steel body of the Jeep.

 

Skippman,
I'm a bit late here as I somehow missed this when you originally posted. Anyway here are is a pic of the enclosure, switch panel, compressor panel and wiring diagram I created for the install. I have everything completed as shown on the diagram and it works flawlessly.

I purchased the enclosures from www.polycase.com; they have hundreds of styles and sizes to choose from. I mounted the new fuse panel and the relays for the front lights in the box next to the battery. The relay for the backup lights is in the rear behind the tail light.

Let me know if you need any other information.

PS I would like to check out that E1 rear bumper on your Jeep, ive been thinking about one of those as it opens with the rear gate. But what to do with the backup lights?

 

Ok, that setup is BA! I love it! That's exactly what I was going to do. Looks like great minds think alike. Who's fuse box are you using? Painless or Blue Sea?

I'm going to have to figure out another place to mount the box though because I'm eventually going to be using either a Kilby or Benchmark dual battery tray and it'll eat up the space where yours is mounted.

I didn't realize the compressor needed such a large relay. I JUST ordered some DuraTrac's (315/70R15) We keep this up people are going to start thinking we're copying off each other!

 

I am very happy with the way it turned out. The great thing is that it keeps all the added electrical stuff isolated from the factory wiring and besides my winch connections I have only 1 extra 8ga wire connected to the battery.

Nah, those panels were a bit expensive. Since I was mounting the panel in an enclosure I just got a real simple and inexpensive fuse block from Terminal Supply. See pic. I think is was around $10.

There arent many options for mounting the enclosure as it is pretty big. I considered mounting it under the panel below the wipers (not sure what you call it) as there is alot of room under there, but I was concerned about access and it being a little exposed to the weather. I have mine velcroed to the side of the battery so I can easily access the inside of it if I need to change a fuse or whatever.

I think you'll love those Duratracs; they are GREAT all around tires and I have been pleased with mine after 10k miles. Although I did get 33's and am now wishing i would have got the 35s. I bet you havent heard that before

 

I put the relays with fuse's in the corner's by the fire walls. Next to a ground nut. Mounted a fuse block in front of the battery to seperate power from the canbuss.
1 relay for hood lites, other for rear backup lites. Not sure if attached photo's will work.