14 JKU M-380
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 221
Likes: 21
From: Falcon, CO
...got the aluminum heater hose fitting permanently glued in place -
...the fan shroud was just barely 'contacting' the front crossmember so clearanced it a bit -
...and to account for the 'JK Lean', and to gain a bit more lift, just finished installing a 2.5" coil spacer kit from Freedom Off-Road; right front and rear got the full 2.5", left front spacer was shaved 1", left rear was shaved 5/8", and the end result was a level JK with an average of 7-3/4" of overall lift, and 23 inches of unladen clearance under the belly shield 👍 -
[URL unfurl="true"]https://freedomoffroadusa.com/2-5-front-2-5-rear-lift-spacers-fo-j303f25-fo-j303r25/?searchid=40857&search_query=2.5+coil+spacer
...the bandsaw worked but induced a bunch of heat, which tried to melt the polyurethane back together, so also went old-school and used a hand saw, which worked great to cut the big poly slugs. Then to get the inner contour to match the rear buckets used a rotary wood rasp, at slow speed and frequent cleat-clearing, to get the left rear spacer to fit 'square' - worked perfectly -
...progress 👍
...the fan shroud was just barely 'contacting' the front crossmember so clearanced it a bit -
...and to account for the 'JK Lean', and to gain a bit more lift, just finished installing a 2.5" coil spacer kit from Freedom Off-Road; right front and rear got the full 2.5", left front spacer was shaved 1", left rear was shaved 5/8", and the end result was a level JK with an average of 7-3/4" of overall lift, and 23 inches of unladen clearance under the belly shield 👍 -
[URL unfurl="true"]https://freedomoffroadusa.com/2-5-front-2-5-rear-lift-spacers-fo-j303f25-fo-j303r25/?searchid=40857&search_query=2.5+coil+spacer
...the bandsaw worked but induced a bunch of heat, which tried to melt the polyurethane back together, so also went old-school and used a hand saw, which worked great to cut the big poly slugs. Then to get the inner contour to match the rear buckets used a rotary wood rasp, at slow speed and frequent cleat-clearing, to get the left rear spacer to fit 'square' - worked perfectly -
...progress 👍
Last edited by Mad-Max; May 9, 2025 at 11:31 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Arizona
Question: Did you check the lean with normal fuel and passenger weight distributions? There's a lot of forum info about people adjusting for the JK lean, then it leans the other way when they plop their butt into the drivers seat (some more than others 
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Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 221
Likes: 21
From: Falcon, CO
...lots of good progress...
1) Cooling system is full again and after an engine run-up yesterday nuthin's leaking anywhere, and the temp gauge resolutely 'stops' when the thermostat opens, which is totally awesome.
2) Fabbed up my own brackets to the axles to speed up 'strapping down' -
3) Sucked a couple ounces out of the PSC reservoir, and cleaned/reassembled the breather - hoping both will cure the 'burping' issue.
4) Stuck on some 1/8" foam seals and the access hatch covers are sealed and installed - working great.
5) Passenger seat is installed, and both front seats have the lap belts installed.
Alternator charging light indicator. Been trying to find a better way to get a simple warning light/indicator for when the alternator stops charging the system, and I think I found it. The posts along the outer edge of the alternator windings are charged when it's spinning, and grounded when it is not charging, which can be simulated by disconnecting the voltage regulator plug. So, with the engine running...if/when the alternator stops 'charging'...for whatever reason...those posts also stop outputting voltage. I will wire my dash LED indicator to have 12v switched power on both ends; when the engine is running and the alternator is charging normally the post will output voltage, thus 'equaling' voltage to the LED and it remains off, but if/when the alternator stops charging (engine still running) the post goes to ground, which completes the circuit and activates the LED. Initial testing shows this process to work perfectly. Now, the interesting part, is that the output voltage at those posts is only showing ~7.3 volts, and IIUC the reason is because it is AC (alternating current), meaning it's continuously going from 0-14.3 volts...give or take...and my multimeter is showing the 'average' voltage. Testing so far indicates that is enough voltage to trigger the LED without it flickering. I'll know for certain soon enough.
Made a small exit hole in the back cover, and this is the post I 'tapped' -
15-minute delay-off relay. Found a slick relay from Hella (Hella 5HE 996 152-131) that has a 0-900 second (900 s = 15-minutes) adjustable delay before it disables the output terminal (87), and I'll be using it to power my GMRS radio, which will remain on for 15 minutes after I shut off the rig, which is peh-fekt 👍 .
Hella Relay - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G27KR5S...fed_asin_title
This is how it's wired (could use this to trigger/power 'anything' you want to have remain on 0-15 minutes after shutting off 12v (switched) power) - Flipping on 12v switched/key'd power activates the relay, and B+ keeps 87 hot for the preset time -
Lastly...alas...after playing 'musical pushrods and lifters' the engine is still 'chattery'...like the lifters or rockers are loose...which I'm near certain they aren't...so until I swap over to a supercharged 4.0 liter I guess I'll just have to live with it...
1) Cooling system is full again and after an engine run-up yesterday nuthin's leaking anywhere, and the temp gauge resolutely 'stops' when the thermostat opens, which is totally awesome.
2) Fabbed up my own brackets to the axles to speed up 'strapping down' -
3) Sucked a couple ounces out of the PSC reservoir, and cleaned/reassembled the breather - hoping both will cure the 'burping' issue.
4) Stuck on some 1/8" foam seals and the access hatch covers are sealed and installed - working great.
5) Passenger seat is installed, and both front seats have the lap belts installed.
Alternator charging light indicator. Been trying to find a better way to get a simple warning light/indicator for when the alternator stops charging the system, and I think I found it. The posts along the outer edge of the alternator windings are charged when it's spinning, and grounded when it is not charging, which can be simulated by disconnecting the voltage regulator plug. So, with the engine running...if/when the alternator stops 'charging'...for whatever reason...those posts also stop outputting voltage. I will wire my dash LED indicator to have 12v switched power on both ends; when the engine is running and the alternator is charging normally the post will output voltage, thus 'equaling' voltage to the LED and it remains off, but if/when the alternator stops charging (engine still running) the post goes to ground, which completes the circuit and activates the LED. Initial testing shows this process to work perfectly. Now, the interesting part, is that the output voltage at those posts is only showing ~7.3 volts, and IIUC the reason is because it is AC (alternating current), meaning it's continuously going from 0-14.3 volts...give or take...and my multimeter is showing the 'average' voltage. Testing so far indicates that is enough voltage to trigger the LED without it flickering. I'll know for certain soon enough.
Made a small exit hole in the back cover, and this is the post I 'tapped' -
15-minute delay-off relay. Found a slick relay from Hella (Hella 5HE 996 152-131) that has a 0-900 second (900 s = 15-minutes) adjustable delay before it disables the output terminal (87), and I'll be using it to power my GMRS radio, which will remain on for 15 minutes after I shut off the rig, which is peh-fekt 👍 .
Hella Relay - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G27KR5S...fed_asin_title
This is how it's wired (could use this to trigger/power 'anything' you want to have remain on 0-15 minutes after shutting off 12v (switched) power) - Flipping on 12v switched/key'd power activates the relay, and B+ keeps 87 hot for the preset time -
Lastly...alas...after playing 'musical pushrods and lifters' the engine is still 'chattery'...like the lifters or rockers are loose...which I'm near certain they aren't...so until I swap over to a supercharged 4.0 liter I guess I'll just have to live with it...
Last edited by Mad-Max; May 13, 2025 at 09:04 AM.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 221
Likes: 21
From: Falcon, CO
...wanted a bit more protection for the radiator and installed this mesh grill screen from Rugged Ridge - it's okay - be interesting to see how long it lasts...but at least now there's 'some' measure of protection from flying rocks, towing debris, etc - meh it's not nothing...and the mesh matches my sliders...
...and my Rugged Radios GMR25 is in place for this weekend's run, and the 15-minute-delay relay works perfectly -
...and my Rugged Radios GMR25 is in place for this weekend's run, and the 15-minute-delay relay works perfectly -
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 221
Likes: 21
From: Falcon, CO
...while on the trail run tomorrow I wanted to get the full effects of 'heat soaking', so my oldest helped me bolt on the fenders and Key Parts vented cowl hood...
...while I was at it I chopped away the lanky hood prop rod and installed these cool hood struts that work great -
...while I was at it I chopped away the lanky hood prop rod and installed these cool hood struts that work great -
Last edited by Mad-Max; May 16, 2025 at 07:41 AM.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 221
Likes: 21
From: Falcon, CO
Power Steering. The system seems to want a tad more pump speed at idle so ordered two other smaller diameter pulleys to try out.
Engine 'chatter'. Going to drain the 20w50 and pour in some quality 10w30 synthetic oil to see if the lifters are indeed as 'sensitive' as some recent research is indicating.
Alternator warning light. Thanks to my friend and electrical guru George, got my alternator no-charge LED indicator system figured out - needed a relay to trigger things correctly (including the rare utility of 87a). Be sure to wire the red and black LED wire to power and ground respectively.
Ignition Off: Nothing hot - no status
Ignition On (not running): 30 and 87a hot = LED On (not charging)
Ignition On (running): 30 hot, 85 On (87a off) = LED Off (charging)
Ignition On (running), voltage regulator disconnected: 30 hot, 85 off (87a hot) = LED On (not charging)
Works perfectly, and now I have a solid indicator light for the instant the alternator stops charging the system 👍
Engine 'chatter'. Going to drain the 20w50 and pour in some quality 10w30 synthetic oil to see if the lifters are indeed as 'sensitive' as some recent research is indicating.
Alternator warning light. Thanks to my friend and electrical guru George, got my alternator no-charge LED indicator system figured out - needed a relay to trigger things correctly (including the rare utility of 87a). Be sure to wire the red and black LED wire to power and ground respectively.
Ignition Off: Nothing hot - no status
Ignition On (not running): 30 and 87a hot = LED On (not charging)
Ignition On (running): 30 hot, 85 On (87a off) = LED Off (charging)
Ignition On (running), voltage regulator disconnected: 30 hot, 85 off (87a hot) = LED On (not charging)
Works perfectly, and now I have a solid indicator light for the instant the alternator stops charging the system 👍
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 221
Likes: 21
From: Falcon, CO
...so I just talked with COMP...and they basically said 'yeah those Xtreme Energy cams are noisy'...meaning the cam I went with is 'noisy' because of the aggressive ramp speeds...which is something I wish I'd known because I would have never have installed it to begin with...and could have avoided all of the research and digging into the reasons why it' noisy and saved all the money spent on oils and everything else trying to figure out what was wrong...which apparently is nothing at all - good to know.
SO...as this is my 'forever' off-road machine and I like it a lot...I want an engine in there that is smaller and gets better fuel mileage (I don't 'need' a 360), but I do like the low hum of a "V8"...and with that in mind I'm pretty sure sometime soon I'm gonna yank the 360 out of the Jeep and yank the smooth quiet-running 318 out of our old stinky Grand Cherokee...park them side by side, rob all of the exterior accessory hardware off the 360 and toss it on the 318, and toss the 318 in the Jeep, which will bolt right in place with zero mods, and call it good.
Meanwhile the 360 is 'good to go' and makes good power...just more noisy than I like, so I'll try to sell the 360 short block for some $ and call it good.
SO...as this is my 'forever' off-road machine and I like it a lot...I want an engine in there that is smaller and gets better fuel mileage (I don't 'need' a 360), but I do like the low hum of a "V8"...and with that in mind I'm pretty sure sometime soon I'm gonna yank the 360 out of the Jeep and yank the smooth quiet-running 318 out of our old stinky Grand Cherokee...park them side by side, rob all of the exterior accessory hardware off the 360 and toss it on the 318, and toss the 318 in the Jeep, which will bolt right in place with zero mods, and call it good.
Meanwhile the 360 is 'good to go' and makes good power...just more noisy than I like, so I'll try to sell the 360 short block for some $ and call it good.
