Clutch or no Clutch? Rock Crawl Moment
#1
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Clutch or no Clutch? Rock Crawl Moment
Hi, all:
I am new with the offroad world and below is my recent try on some
small rocks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6q754l2_Fk My JK has 6 Speed Manual, 2.7 Transfer case, 3.73 gear ratio, 35 inch tire
My questions is: From what I read in offorad driving book, you just do not
touch clutch, keep the engine in idle speed let the jeep crawl on rocks.
I tried that, but it just stall while my JK climbs up.
So I slowly released the clutch pedal and pressed the gas pedal when I
did the climb.
Is this the right way?
I am new with the offroad world and below is my recent try on some
small rocks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6q754l2_Fk My JK has 6 Speed Manual, 2.7 Transfer case, 3.73 gear ratio, 35 inch tire
My questions is: From what I read in offorad driving book, you just do not
touch clutch, keep the engine in idle speed let the jeep crawl on rocks.
I tried that, but it just stall while my JK climbs up.
So I slowly released the clutch pedal and pressed the gas pedal when I
did the climb.
Is this the right way?
Last edited by wolfmanii; 02-21-2011 at 07:36 PM.
#3
That's right but even in low you are going to have problems with your gears and 35s.
Letting it crawl in gear is usually a rubicon deal with a diff tranfer case and regeared. You will need to use the clutch and gas method until you get more gearing.
The rubicon in low is more like a tractor than a normal car.
Letting it crawl in gear is usually a rubicon deal with a diff tranfer case and regeared. You will need to use the clutch and gas method until you get more gearing.
The rubicon in low is more like a tractor than a normal car.
#5
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You need to keep momentum going, so if you get over one rock and stop then, try to get on the next and stop you will be working that clutch hard. I wheeled a manual for years and I got good at hardly using the clutch, but the biggest thing was just keeping my forward momentum. I did notice wheeling a JK that there is a bit of a delay with throttle response, so sometimes feathering the throttle was a bit more difficult than I was used to with the CJ.
You will not be able to master this the first time on rocks, you will get better at it.
You will not be able to master this the first time on rocks, you will get better at it.
#7
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You need to keep momentum going, so if you get over one rock and stop then, try to get on the next and stop you will be working that clutch hard. I wheeled a manual for years and I got good at hardly using the clutch, but the biggest thing was just keeping my forward momentum. I did notice wheeling a JK that there is a bit of a delay with throttle response, so sometimes feathering the throttle was a bit more difficult than I was used to with the CJ.
You will not be able to master this the first time on rocks, you will get better at it.
You will not be able to master this the first time on rocks, you will get better at it.
Thanks for your advice.
I would like to leave the clutch alone too.
After it started climb, I tried to leave the clutch and just concentrate on gas and brake pedal, but I am not good at this. sometime I got my JK
moving too fast than I wanted, other time I got my JK stalled
So I simply stop after each little climb. This requires
me press clutch and brake. Then I do another climb with clutch+gas again.
I am more comfortable with this style, but I can feel my clutch burns
quickly...
Any recommendation on practicing the "crawl without clutch"?
Last edited by wolfmanii; 02-22-2011 at 09:19 PM.
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#8
JK Junkie
Assuming you were in 4-lo the challenge is maintaining momentum with your existing crawl ratio.
This ratio is tranny ratio x t-case ratio x axle gear ratio, taken in respect to your tire size. In your case those ratios are: 4.46 X 2.72 X 3.73 which equals a crawl ratio of 45.25 with 35" tires. The higher the ratio, the slower you go.
Higher crawl ratios multiply your engine torque, enabling you to better avoid stalling, even at slower speeds. Also, slower driving provides for greater contol during technical rock crawling.
In your case, you'll be on and off the clutch until you figure the pace that is right for you.
This ratio is tranny ratio x t-case ratio x axle gear ratio, taken in respect to your tire size. In your case those ratios are: 4.46 X 2.72 X 3.73 which equals a crawl ratio of 45.25 with 35" tires. The higher the ratio, the slower you go.
Higher crawl ratios multiply your engine torque, enabling you to better avoid stalling, even at slower speeds. Also, slower driving provides for greater contol during technical rock crawling.
In your case, you'll be on and off the clutch until you figure the pace that is right for you.
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Like was said, momentum is the key. Try to have your spotter indicate as much of the line as is possible before you start so you don't have to stop. I know that isn't always practical and some times things go awry, but it's worth a try. And, yes, better gears would help and be easier on the clutch.