When to use Rubicon lockers
12-31-2014, 11:25 AM
#1
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When to use Rubicon lockers
I searched the interwebs and can not find an answer. I ordered a manual 2015 JKUR and have some questions on when to use the lockers. I plan on keeping it in 4lo and in 2nd gear.
- When should I engage the lockers?
- Should the rear be locked all the time?
- If I am on an obsticle and need to lock the front, can I do that without harm and still steer?
- Can I lock the front while driving if I notice wheel spin?
12-31-2014, 11:39 AM
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12-31-2014, 11:55 AM
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That video pretty much just says to use them offered. My questions are, once I hit the trail can I keep the rear locked at all times and if I need to lock the front, can I do that while on the obsticle.
Example: I am trying to crawl over a object, the brake lock is not enough to prevent wheel spin in the front. Can I just hit the locker again to lock the front or do I have to stop, lock the front, then try again.
Example: I am trying to crawl over a object, the brake lock is not enough to prevent wheel spin in the front. Can I just hit the locker again to lock the front or do I have to stop, lock the front, then try again.
12-31-2014, 12:35 PM
#4
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That video pretty much just says to use them offered. My questions are, once I hit the trail can I keep the rear locked at all times and if I need to lock the front, can I do that while on the obsticle. Example: I am trying to crawl over a object, the brake lock is not enough to prevent wheel spin in the front. Can I just hit the locker again to lock the front or do I have to stop, lock the front, then try again.
12-31-2014, 12:50 PM
#5
JK Freak
Getting out there and learning what the jeep will do is the best way to learn. With some experience you'll know exactly when to lock up.
With the Rubi, if you want the front locked then you have to lock the rear. You can't have the rear unlocked but the front locked unless you bypass the factory wiring. With the front locked, it puts a lot of strain on your front end and it makes steering very difficult and impossible with large tires.
You can start by approaching an obstacle unlocked and see how you do. If you notice excessive wheel spin then back off, stop, engage the rear locker and try it again. Most of the time the rear locker will get the job done and provide you with the advantage you need. If you're experiencing excessive wheel spin with just your rear locked then stop. Engage the front locker and give it a shot. It should do the trick and get you up and over most obstacles. Once you're over the obstacle unlock the lockers and move on. The rubi lockers like to stick some times but they will eventually disengage.
Now if you're fully locked and you've tried several different lines then pull the winch cable and move on.
You don't need to engage your lockers for regular trail riding between obstacles. Hope this helps.
With the Rubi, if you want the front locked then you have to lock the rear. You can't have the rear unlocked but the front locked unless you bypass the factory wiring. With the front locked, it puts a lot of strain on your front end and it makes steering very difficult and impossible with large tires.
You can start by approaching an obstacle unlocked and see how you do. If you notice excessive wheel spin then back off, stop, engage the rear locker and try it again. Most of the time the rear locker will get the job done and provide you with the advantage you need. If you're experiencing excessive wheel spin with just your rear locked then stop. Engage the front locker and give it a shot. It should do the trick and get you up and over most obstacles. Once you're over the obstacle unlock the lockers and move on. The rubi lockers like to stick some times but they will eventually disengage.
Now if you're fully locked and you've tried several different lines then pull the winch cable and move on.
You don't need to engage your lockers for regular trail riding between obstacles. Hope this helps.
12-31-2014, 12:52 PM
#6
JK Super Freak
Just how I look at it, as I approach an obstacle that looks like I may run into traction issues (slippery or lifting a wheel) i will put it in 4-low (have to to use the factory lockers) and lock 'em up. Some people wait until they get stuck to lock but not me.
Most places you go will probably not need the lockers activated (if most are then I recommend getting a winch and some recovery gear and not Jeeping alone)
Most places you go will probably not need the lockers activated (if most are then I recommend getting a winch and some recovery gear and not Jeeping alone)
12-31-2014, 01:10 PM
#7
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Getting out there and learning what the jeep will do is the best way to learn. With some experience you'll know exactly when to lock up.
With the Rubi, if you want the front locked then you have to lock the rear. You can't have the rear unlocked but the front locked unless you bypass the factory wiring. With the front locked, it puts a lot of strain on your front end and it makes steering very difficult and impossible with large tires.
You can start by approaching an obstacle unlocked and see how you do. If you notice excessive wheel spin then back off, stop, engage the rear locker and try it again. Most of the time the rear locker will get the job done and provide you with the advantage you need. If you're experiencing excessive wheel spin with just your rear locked then stop. Engage the front locker and give it a shot. It should do the trick and get you up and over most obstacles. Once you're over the obstacle unlock the lockers and move on. The rubi lockers like to stick some times but they will eventually disengage.
Now if you're fully locked and you've tried several different lines then pull the winch cable and move on.
You don't need to engage your lockers for regular trail riding between obstacles. Hope this helps.
With the Rubi, if you want the front locked then you have to lock the rear. You can't have the rear unlocked but the front locked unless you bypass the factory wiring. With the front locked, it puts a lot of strain on your front end and it makes steering very difficult and impossible with large tires.
You can start by approaching an obstacle unlocked and see how you do. If you notice excessive wheel spin then back off, stop, engage the rear locker and try it again. Most of the time the rear locker will get the job done and provide you with the advantage you need. If you're experiencing excessive wheel spin with just your rear locked then stop. Engage the front locker and give it a shot. It should do the trick and get you up and over most obstacles. Once you're over the obstacle unlock the lockers and move on. The rubi lockers like to stick some times but they will eventually disengage.
Now if you're fully locked and you've tried several different lines then pull the winch cable and move on.
You don't need to engage your lockers for regular trail riding between obstacles. Hope this helps.
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12-31-2014, 01:23 PM
#8
JK Freak
Steering left to right can help gain traction in some situations. If you're locked just remember that excessive wheel spin while your wheels are fully turned one way can end very badly if you suddenly grab traction or bounce into an obstacle. Most of the people you've seen do that probably weren't turning full lock to full lock, they were probably making small left & right turns in hopes of gaining traction.
12-31-2014, 02:51 PM
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Steering left to right can help gain traction in some situations. If you're locked just remember that excessive wheel spin while your wheels are fully turned one way can end very badly if you suddenly grab traction or bounce into an obstacle. Most of the people you've seen do that probably weren't turning full lock to full lock, they were probably making small left & right turns in hopes of gaining traction.