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Newbie: Offroading with a 6spd?

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Old 06-05-2008, 09:51 AM
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I agree, I much prefer the manual, though i'm still trying to get the hang of the 6 speed. I just did the most serious rock crawling to date last weekend and realized i still need to get more practice on it. Keep practicing and you'll get the feel for it.
Old 06-05-2008, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Woods
This is MUCH more difficult without the rubi transfer case though.
Could you explain why please?
Old 06-05-2008, 10:39 AM
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the best trick is to bury yourself in a really deep muddy and watery puddle.... and then shift from 1st... to reverse... a bunch of times!
just kidding... this is a big DO NOT
Old 06-05-2008, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by rangleme
Could you explain why please?
Rubi transfer cases are 4:1 crawl ratios I believe he's stating, so non-rubi T-cases with a higher gear ratio take a little more finess on the gas and clutch work to prevent stalling up a steep grade, rock, etc. Whereas the Rubi's are a whopping (1)mph (pretty sure) at Wide Open Throttle in 4L 1st gear, so crawling is so much easier, slight gas and your good, very little clutch work needed.
Old 06-05-2008, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SASQUATCH
Rubi transfer cases are 4:1 crawl ratios I believe he's stating, so non-rubi T-cases with a higher gear ratio take a little more finess on the gas and clutch work to prevent stalling up a steep grade, rock, etc. Whereas the Rubi's are a whopping (1)mph (pretty sure) at Wide Open Throttle in 4L 1st gear, so crawling is so much easier, slight gas and your good, very little clutch work needed.
Thanks for explanation, I will have to read it over and over till I understand it. No fault on your part, I'm just still learning
Old 06-05-2008, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rangleme
Could you explain why please?
I'll take this one. (proud x owner here) He's referring to idling over obstacles. The reason why is the lower final drive ration provided by the rubi's transfer case. Multiplies the engines torque more than the 2.73 ration on the x and sahara. So you roll slower, (good in the rocks), and need less gas pedal input to avoid stalling.
Old 06-05-2008, 12:50 PM
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Now I understand and I went over to my co-worker and he explained it as well like you did. Hmmmm, just means once I get down the whole manual rock crawling thing.....I will rock!
Old 06-05-2008, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by deanthemachine04
another thing NOT to do is shift while crossing water. you will suck water into the clutch and damage or destroy it. pick the gear you want to use the whole way through b4 entering the water!
now that's what i'm talking about. that's why i come here. had no clue. i know i've saved thousands of dollars by reading this forum. thanks for the advice.
Old 06-05-2008, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 07JKX
the best trick is to bury yourself in a really deep muddy and watery puddle.... and then shift from 1st... to reverse... a bunch of times!
just kidding... this is a big DO NOT
what happens if you get stuck and need reverse?? also, if i'm only using 4lo for crawling what do i use the 4hi for?
Old 06-06-2008, 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 07Rubi2dr
what happens if you get stuck and need reverse?? also, if i'm only using 4lo for crawling what do i use the 4hi for?
honestly... i have seen people shift to reverse to back up and then go forward to get themselves out... however, ideally, just have someone pull you out... if you choose the former, just check all your fluids afterwards (i do this after each trail ride anyways)

and it depends on the depth of the water/mud hole... if your buried up to or past the doors... just have someone pull you out...if you are stuck and it only halfway up the tires or so... give it hell...

buddy of mine was stuck in some realtively deep stuff and shifted a couple time to get out... gave up, got pulled out, and it would no longer go into gear. was towed off the trail, to the dealer, where he was informed that he would need to invest $1,200.00 for a new clutch


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