New JK owner installing 3" lift...
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
New JK owner installing 3" lift...
Hey all!
I just got this JK last weekend. Wanted to quickly add some goodies to it before my wife realized it wasn't "already that way". Got a 3" coil spacer lift and put it in. I ONLY disconnected shocks and brakeline mount (for extenders), and the sway bar link bottom bolts.
It seems to be driving fine (off road and 80mph on the interstate) so do I really need an alignment? Or even if I do or don't, how can I tell if I need longer front sway bar links? I am TOTALLY unfamiliar with the electronically disconnected sway bar feature, so want to make sure I am not hurting anything there.
Thanks in advance!
2015 JK Rubicon Hard Rock edition, stock 33's.
I just got this JK last weekend. Wanted to quickly add some goodies to it before my wife realized it wasn't "already that way". Got a 3" coil spacer lift and put it in. I ONLY disconnected shocks and brakeline mount (for extenders), and the sway bar link bottom bolts.
It seems to be driving fine (off road and 80mph on the interstate) so do I really need an alignment? Or even if I do or don't, how can I tell if I need longer front sway bar links? I am TOTALLY unfamiliar with the electronically disconnected sway bar feature, so want to make sure I am not hurting anything there.
Thanks in advance!
2015 JK Rubicon Hard Rock edition, stock 33's.
#2
JK Jedi
No reason to get alignment cuz there is nothing they can do except re-center your steering wheel and adjust toe, which didn't change with the height. at 3" your caster is going to be way low, probably around 2.8* (factory is 4.2*). You should look at some control arm brackets to help raise that back up. At 3" your front drive shaft will likely not be long for this world so budget for a replacement at some point.
As far as sway bar links, yes, you need longer links. Your sway bar should sit parallel to up a few degrees at ride height (both front and rear).
As far as sway bar links, yes, you need longer links. Your sway bar should sit parallel to up a few degrees at ride height (both front and rear).
#3
JK Jedi
Did you replace the shocks or add extenders to them? If not then you don't "need" extended sway bar links. If yes, you do need longer links to keep the front sway bar from flipping forward if you fully droop the axle off road.
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levdeb (07-07-2021)
#5
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
No reason to get alignment cuz there is nothing they can do except re-center your steering wheel and adjust toe, which didn't change with the height. at 3" your caster is going to be way low, probably around 2.8* (factory is 4.2*). You should look at some control arm brackets to help raise that back up. At 3" your front drive shaft will likely not be long for this world so budget for a replacement at some point.
As far as sway bar links, yes, you need longer links. Your sway bar should sit parallel to up a few degrees at ride height (both front and rear).
As far as sway bar links, yes, you need longer links. Your sway bar should sit parallel to up a few degrees at ride height (both front and rear).
Maybe we are OK for now...?
#6
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Yessir, came with shock extenders. We are certainly going to go offroad with this, though probably not anything too crazy. I guess either adjustable front links, or someone suggested using rear links on the front (since they are longer)...? Thanks for the advice!
#7
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I may be seeing things incorrectly in that pic, but...
Up or down from the perspective of - angled up toward the end connected to the links. After a lift, it will be angled down. (yellow line). Hard to tell from that pic, but guessing that orange (maybe red?) would be parallel to the ground? And blue would be angled up.
With the swaybar angled down - and assuming the shocks or shocks+brackets are long enough - short links can allow the swaybar to flip around backwards when the suspension is flexed. This tends to turn links into pretzels...
It is common for lifts to included new rear links, then you move the longer stock rear links to the front.
Up or down from the perspective of - angled up toward the end connected to the links. After a lift, it will be angled down. (yellow line). Hard to tell from that pic, but guessing that orange (maybe red?) would be parallel to the ground? And blue would be angled up.
With the swaybar angled down - and assuming the shocks or shocks+brackets are long enough - short links can allow the swaybar to flip around backwards when the suspension is flexed. This tends to turn links into pretzels...
It is common for lifts to included new rear links, then you move the longer stock rear links to the front.
Last edited by nthinuf; 07-07-2021 at 11:32 AM.
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#8
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
I may be seeing things incorrectly in that pic, but...
Up or down from the perspective of - angled up toward the end connected to the links. After a lift, it will be angled down. (yellow line). Hard to tell from that pic, but guessing that orange (maybe red?) would be parallel to the ground? And blue would be angled up.
With the swaybar angled down - and assuming the shocks or shocks+brackets are long enough - short links can allow the swaybar to flip around backwards when the suspension is flexed. This tends to turn links into pretzels...
It is common for lifts to included new rear links, then you move the longer stock rear links to the front.
Up or down from the perspective of - angled up toward the end connected to the links. After a lift, it will be angled down. (yellow line). Hard to tell from that pic, but guessing that orange (maybe red?) would be parallel to the ground? And blue would be angled up.
With the swaybar angled down - and assuming the shocks or shocks+brackets are long enough - short links can allow the swaybar to flip around backwards when the suspension is flexed. This tends to turn links into pretzels...
It is common for lifts to included new rear links, then you move the longer stock rear links to the front.
Thanks so much. I really appreciate your time with this!
#9
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Adjustable links are nice to have, they just cost a bit more.
Before you spend the money, why not just grab a tape measure or ruler and do a little comparing? Measure the rear links, then see where that would put the front swaybar.
Before you spend the money, why not just grab a tape measure or ruler and do a little comparing? Measure the rear links, then see where that would put the front swaybar.
#10
JK Jedi
If you think you plan to head off the pavement and disconnect the sway bar, just do yourself a favor and buy some quick disconnects for the front. If this is a pavement only rig, moving the rear to the front and buying new rears is typically fine.