I suggest both, bolt and weld to the frame. I have been high-centered on rocks before and my entire Jeep was resting on my rocker rails. (made me proud that I fabbed them up myself) As you wheel your frame will flex slightly, there is a possibility that welds could break that way, bolt them on too. As far as mounting them to the body....if i was high centered and my rails were mounted to the body there is no way I would get out of there without any damage

EVO Rock Sliders Welding
 

How much is a reasonable price to have EVO rock sliders welded on?

1-2 hrs labor

Interesting, seems like things have shifted from the tj to the jk. On a yj or tj, body rocker guards were always the best option. However for the jk, folks seem to like frame base. While I have a home grown frame base solution, I think the advantage of the body base option is clearance.

YJ and TJ bodies were flat on the sides and made of more substantial stuff than the tinfoil they use on JK's. You were also able to add material on the inside to stiffen it up where JK bodies have a void between the inner and outer steel so you cant back it up on the inside. You chose well going frame based.

To add to this, JKU's have a long wheel base so sliders are used more often compared to a short wheel base vehicle. JKU'sJKU's are very heavy. That is a lot of weight for the body or body mount to support. the frame is the strongest part of a vehicle.

I put on the Poision Spyder sliders that bolt to the frame and then tie in with some body protection. The down side to this is if you impact the sliders on a regular basis the flex in the slider will move the plate that is attached to the body.

The result is a pucker on the front fenders about 1/2 way up the door.

In the interest of full discloser I run a 2 door and do have a habit of using my sliders A-LOT!!!

That makes sense. I made mine of 1/8 steel 2x4 tubing. It has taken a great deal of abuse over the years. At that time, 2006, I really had no good option

I got these from White Knuckle Offroad in Apple Valley CA. They were only $410 bare metal and they are bullet proof. I got them unpainted to save the $100 on powder coat since it's going to get scraped off anyway. I also drove up there to pick them up to save the $100 in shipping charges. My friend Scott at Scott Monks Racing in Hesperia welded them for me.

I don't like the way that alot of rails bolted on to the body at the pinch weld and the pre-drilled holes under the body. Or they attached at the body mounts; like the ACE rails. I was afraid if I came down hard enough, and often enough, the weight of the engine, frame, and drive train would weaken the body mounts. So I opted to weld them on. They are awesome.

The front bracket attaches under the front skid plate cross member, with the bolt running through the bracket, and it aligns the install perfectly after that. I like the "L" brackets because they wrap around under the frame. They are marketed as bolt on.

3/16th" DOM steel, 2x3" rectangular tub with a 1 1/2" kicker. You can get them with a 20 degree bend on the kicker or straight. They make a great step after I added some grip tape. He builds them when you order them.

How are these holding up? I just ordered a set. I added the diamond plate for the step (I was told they also help keep mud/dirt off the body a bit which I don't mind in the winter!).

I saw a set of these in action and they were amazing. These are designed like the Boulder Bars I once had on my Liberty, and let me tell you, I gave them a workout!