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Another transmission cooler install

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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 05:46 AM
  #1  
GLand's Avatar
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Thumbs up Another transmission cooler install

I posted this same procedure on another forum but thought people on here would like to see it also.

I installed a B&M transmission SuperCooler (model 70268). I mounted mine in the upright position and used 2 Gates unicoil 5/16" hose benders. I put these on so the hoses would not get kinked. I did buy 4 more feet of hose, extra hose clamps and 2 brass hose connectors to make the hose connections and then used some of the left over hose to wrap around the new hoses where they might rub on sharp spots. I also hard mounted mine instead of using the mounting rods that poke through the radiator. I read some where that those mounting rods can damage the radiator. I guess there is some movement that can happen and can rub holes in the radiator if the rods are used to hold the cooler in place. The return line is the top line coming from the transmission. Since I mounted mine in the upright position I didn't have to worry about what fitting needed to be the inlet. If you mount the SuperCooler on its side then the lower fitting needs to be the inlet as per the instructions. I mounted mine so it sits about 1 1/4" away from the radiator and the fan pulls plenty of air through it.
I did talk to B&M and my dealer about instalation. B&M said that putting the cooler in the upright position is the perfered way to install the cooler. The dealer said that the way I installed the cooler was fine but as with any non OEM part added to your Jeep if the transmission has any problems and the cooler is at fault then I would be stuck for the cost of the fix. The reason I am saying this is because some people had concerns on the other forum about the way I installed my cooler. I have had the cooler on for about 1000 miles and no issues but than again it is still cool here. Hope this write up helps.
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 05:55 AM
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Thats gonna leak after a while. Should of used Lock tite lines and AeroQuip connectors. You did do a clean install.
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by EarlyJk
Thats gonna leak after a while. Should of used Lock tite lines and AeroQuip connectors. You did do a clean install.
Not familiar with AeroQuip. Did a quick Google, and found tons of stuff. Can you be more specific on what parts you purchased?

Thanks.
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 07:07 AM
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I can get you guys the exact part#s i used. The actuall install is mostly the same as the other write ups. Only thing difference is i cut off my factory crimp fittings (which is the main cause of the seep).
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by EarlyJk
I can get you guys the exact part#s i used. The actuall install is mostly the same as the other write ups. Only thing difference is i cut off my factory crimp fittings (which is the main cause of the seep).
I was worried about leaks when I did mine, so any information about leak mitigation would be appreciated. Please, when you have a moment, let us know the part numbers and any other information on materials. This is good stuff!!!

Thanks.
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 07:38 AM
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The first attachment is my part list, the second is what you will need to cut the factory hardline right before the crimp fitting. You will only be able to get a single flare on the hardlines due to the large size. A single flare will be sufficient for this job, do not try to double flare it.
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by EarlyJk
The first attachment is my part list, the second is what you will need to cut the factory hardline right before the crimp fitting. You will only be able to get a single flare on the hardlines due to the large size. A single flare will be sufficient for this job, do not try to double flare it.
Great information. Thanks.
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 08:26 AM
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Excellent info. Just ordered my parts from Summit Racing. Assume you are using the standard 45 degree flair kit. Correct?
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